In December 2017 the Venetian Region (local Authority), financed the creation of the Operational Group (OG) ‘Serinnovation’, within the framework of the Rural Development Plan supported by the European Community. The OG aims at coordinating and spreading innovation in sericulture through mechanisation of processes and centralisation of some rearing steps, the use of waste as by-products and traceability to promote local productions. The project acts on perceived quality by increasing the added value, through production cost efficiency, and on the recovery of the waste material for further applications (circular economy). The final target was to develop a niche-process to obtain traceable ‘Made-in-Italy’ silk for the luxury market and non-textile applications. A first strategy to increase the efficiency of the process was to build an automatic leaf cutting machine to prepare the feed for the first three instars of the silkworm (Bombyx mori Linnaeus). This new machine – based on a patent – was validated through several tests and compared with the cutting system previously used. The study was completed by a bioassay of production and survival rate associated with the introduction of this innovation. The results showed that labour saving is in the order of 10% compared to a semi-manual process, the leaf quality is not affected, survival of larvae and silk production are not significantly different from the control. This methodology is proposed as a study case for other similar mechanisation processes in entomological production, as the impact of innovations on insect physiology should be carefully considered.

The radiocarbon (14C) dating method was applied to a survey of treasured items related to the ruins of the Imperial Residence in Anou, Nara Prefecture, which was one of the capitals of Japan during the 14th century. In this work, we dated two storage bags for Japanese musical instruments that are believed to be from the period of Emperor Go-Daigo who established the Southern Court. The 14C dating of these treasures proved that the musical instrument sacks are contemporaneous with the dating of the Imperial Residence ruins designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan. In addition, there are limited surviving examples of silk fabrics from the Middle Ages compared to the Ancient and Early Modern periods, making this a valuable resource in the history of silk fabrics in Japan.

New global history studies have provided theoretical models related to different paths of economic growth and consumer behaviour between East Asia (mainly China and Japan) and Europe during the period of the first industrialisation. However, more research challenging the Eurocentric views of the origins of globalisation is needed. In this article, I examine the exchanges of Chinese silks and porcelains and European wines and liquors for American silver through the Swedish Grill Company. This company had extensive business activities in Canton and Macao establishing strategic links and intermediation with other relevant companies from China, Manila, Seville and Marseille. On the global level, such exchanges played a crucial role for the accumulation of American silver in China during the Qing dynasty, and the outflows of Chinese goods to the Americas and Europe fostered market integration and globalisation that occurred earlier than 1820.

As Jesuit missionaries in seventeenth-century China struggled to translate Christian theology into Chinese terms and categories, they embarked on a project of purifying the “political” from the “superstitious.” Their project was structured by the unmentionable: the proscribed luxury of silk robes that facilitated the encounters between the missionaries and the native elite they most sought to convert. This article examines the manifold functions of silk and the problem of “accommodation” by turning to the Brevis relatio de numero et qualitate Christianorum apud Sinas (“Brief report on the number and quality of Christians in China”), a booklet authored by the Jesuit missionary Martino Martini (1614–1661). Written for European circulation, the Brevis relatio touted the triumphs of the mission by incorporating the conceptual imaginary of “China” into the cosmo-political confines of the Euro-Christian world. This article shows how the basic Christian metaphor of horticultural fruitfulness was used to interpret silk and sericulture as material evidence that the Chinese mission field prefigured and promised, both spiritually and commercially, a profitable harvest.

As part of protectionist policy in eighteenth-century Britain, imported silks were banned from being sold. Although it is known that bans on imported textiles were widely broken, there have been few systematic studies of the contraband trade in silks. Using customs' records, this article shows how smuggling supplied the demand for imported consumer goods. The illegal trade in silk was diverse, bringing in a variety of products from Asia and Europe. The evidence supports a market segmentation analysis of the different products and their consumers. The trade with Asia supplied “populuxe goods” in the form of handkerchiefs that appealed to a broad, middling customer base. These were brought into the country by the East India Company's trading network. By contrast, continental Europe provided contraband for the high-fashion market. These silks were distributed in more informal and personal ways—travelers and diplomats being the main offenders. The official response to these black markets differed, with silks from Europe posing particular problems for enforcement. Finally, this article provides a reassessment of the transnational influences—specifically the relative importance of Asia and Europe—on production and consumption of consumer goods in Britain.

Quality control of sample material (e.g. charcoal, collagen) is receiving considerable attention in the effort to obtain more reliable 14C dates. The atomic carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio is a useful indicator of contamination and/or degradation of bone collagen. Wool and silk are also composed of proteinaceous material such as bone collagen, and the C:N ratio may also be a useful quality indicator for archaeological wool and silk. Analyses of modern undyed, mordanted, non-mordanted, and naturally dyed silk and wool were done in order to determine a C:N range that indicates the sample quality. The C:N range can be different for every material as the amino acid composition of wool, silk, and bone collagen are distinct. The measured minimum and maximum C:N values were used to set up a C:N range of uncontamined and undegraded wool and silk. Then, the C:N ratio and 14C were analyzed of archaeological wool and silk samples. The applicability of the C:N ratio as a quality indicator for archaeological silk and wool was shown by the good agreement of the 14C dates with the presumed historical dates for the uncontaminated samples and the disagreement of the 14C dates with the presumed historical dates for contaminated samples.