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Photo taken by Bridget Coggins: “I took this picture out of a tour bus window while it was careening through a Pyongyang intersection. I only visited North Korea briefly, since travel is strictly limited and “fieldwork” nearly impossible there, while I was working in Seoul, South Korea in 2013–2014. The woman is a warden, who manually directs traffic, and was an iconic figure in North Korea at the time. (One brave warden had purportedly saved Kim Jong-un’s life.) Traffic wardens conveyed a glamorous, heroic, modern North Korean nation to outsiders like me. But like so many interactions with North Koreans, this is only a shared glimpse through a glass mediated by the state. The North Korean government meticulously crafts its external image to foreign audiences and, in particular, to Koreans in the South. In the decades since the armistice ending the Korean War, a myriad of distinctions borne of ideological differences and political control have grown between Koreans. South Korea is among the most prosperous countries in the world. On that same trip to the North, people amassed during a snowstorm to clear the highways with hand brooms. Generators routinely lost power. Even the showpiece museums were dark and frigid until the moment we arrived. Despite the clear divide between what we are told and the everyday North Korean reality, we cannot access how North Koreans think about themselves, their brethren in the South, or their place in the wider world. Who is the woman staring back at me? Where does she belong?”