Book contents
- Frontmatter
- Contents
- Preface
- Acknowledgements
- 1 Introduction
- 2 Observation techniques
- 3 Description of ocean waves
- 4 Statistics
- 5 Linear wave theory (oceanic waters)
- 6 Waves in oceanic waters
- 7 Linear wave theory (coastal waters)
- 8 Waves in coastal waters
- 9 The SWAN wave model
- Appendix A Random variables
- Appendix B Linear wave theory
- Appendix C Spectral analysis
- Appendix D Tides and currents
- Appendix E Shallow-water equations
- References
- Index
Preface
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 03 February 2010
- Frontmatter
- Contents
- Preface
- Acknowledgements
- 1 Introduction
- 2 Observation techniques
- 3 Description of ocean waves
- 4 Statistics
- 5 Linear wave theory (oceanic waters)
- 6 Waves in oceanic waters
- 7 Linear wave theory (coastal waters)
- 8 Waves in coastal waters
- 9 The SWAN wave model
- Appendix A Random variables
- Appendix B Linear wave theory
- Appendix C Spectral analysis
- Appendix D Tides and currents
- Appendix E Shallow-water equations
- References
- Index
Summary
In my position as associate professor at Delft University of Technology and as a guest lecturer at UNESCO-IHE (Delft, the Netherlands), I have for more than 20 years, with great pleasure, supported students and professionals in their study of ocean waves. At Delft University I have had, in addition, the opportunity to work with colleagues, notably Nico Booij, on developing numerical wave models, one of which (SWAN) has widely been accepted as an operational model for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Over the years, I have made notes to assist these professionals, students and myself, during courses, workshops and training sessions. With the growing interest and willingness of others to formalise these (mostly handwritten) notes, I found that I should make the effort myself. The result is this book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters, which provides an introduction to the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas and in coastal regions. The title of the book is a little prosaic because I want to focus directly on the subject matter of the book. A more poetic title would be Waves of The Blue Yonder, which would convey better the awe and mystery that I feel when watching waves at sea, wondering where they come from and what they have seen on their journey across the oceans. The cover photo illustrates this feeling beautifully.
- Type
- Chapter
- Information
- Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters , pp. xiii - xivPublisher: Cambridge University PressPrint publication year: 2007