Published online by Cambridge University Press: 15 January 2025
Pir Nawaz Ali Naz possesses a striking demeanor. A middle-aged man of medium height and portly build, his appearance is distinguished by a deep maroon turban, which he wears over his long, oiled hair. Seemingly a permanent fixture of his attire, the turban complements his thin, trimmed beard, and its color signifies his affiliation with the Chishti Nizami Sufi silsila. As I will demonstrate in this chapter, this is an association that is key to pir Nawaz's role as a Sufi guide, community leader, and gaddi nashin of his father pir Ahmed Ali Naz's shrine. Relegated to a corner of the small Kamboh graveyard in Ichra, this modest shrine is a simple structure built on a raised platform with Ahmed's grave, which is open to the sky but enclosed by three low walls on one side and an open area for conducting various activities adjacent to it (Plan 2.1). It is served by a small but active community of murids and neighbors under his son's watchful eye. Pir Nawaz is very much at the center of this neighborhood community and actively organizes and leads most of its congregations and activities.
Ahmed's shrine is usually only populated on Thursdays, when pir Nawaz and other community members gather here for performing prayers, conversing, and cooking and consuming langar. These Thursday gatherings serve as an occasion for the community to come together under the guidance of their pir. Besides Thursdays and festivals, a few members of this Sufi community also sporadically gather in pir Nawaz's aastana. Located a couple of kilometers from his father's tomb, in a very narrow lane of the Chah Jammu neighborhood, this is a small private room attached to pir Nawaz's residence but with its own entrance from the street. Ahmed's shrine and the community around it are intimately tied to this neighborhood. Many of the devotees reside in or around it, and all have personal connections with pir Nawaz. The area itself is densely populated, mostly residential, with a few small shops and other commercial ventures on the wider streets. It appears quite congested and tightly packed, with residences and shops spilling over into the street and sagging cables filling up the space above.
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