Book contents
- Frontmatter
- Contents
- Prefaces
- Chapter One Introduction
- Chapter Two Mathematical Description of Oscillations
- Chapter Three Interaction between Oscillations and Waves
- Chapter Four Gravity Waves on Water
- Chapter Five Wave–Body Interactions
- Chapter Six Oscillating-Body Wave-Energy Converters
- Chapter Seven Oscillating Water Columns and Other Types of Wave-Energy Converters
- Chapter Eight Wave-Energy Converter Arrays
- Bibliography
- Index
Chapter Four - Gravity Waves on Water
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 12 May 2020
- Frontmatter
- Contents
- Prefaces
- Chapter One Introduction
- Chapter Two Mathematical Description of Oscillations
- Chapter Three Interaction between Oscillations and Waves
- Chapter Four Gravity Waves on Water
- Chapter Five Wave–Body Interactions
- Chapter Six Oscillating-Body Wave-Energy Converters
- Chapter Seven Oscillating Water Columns and Other Types of Wave-Energy Converters
- Chapter Eight Wave-Energy Converter Arrays
- Bibliography
- Index
Summary
Chapter 4 introduces basic differential equations and boundary conditions for gravity waves propagating along a water surface. Assuming low wave amplitudes, equations are linearised. Then a quantitative discussion is given for harmonical (sinusoidal) waves propagating either on deep water, or otherwise on water of constant depth. Phase and group velocities are introduced, and then formulas are derived for the potential energy and the kinetic energy associated with a water wave. A closely related result is an important formula for the wave-power level, which equals the wave’s group velocity multiplied by the wave’s stored – kinetic + potential – energy per unit of sea surface. An additional subject is the wave’s momentum density. A section concerns real sea waves. Further, circular waves are mathematically described. Two sections of the chapter concern mathematical tools to be applied in Chapters 5–8 of the book. A final section considers water waves analysed in the time domain.
Keywords
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- Ocean Waves and Oscillating SystemsLinear Interactions Including Wave-Energy Extraction, pp. 62 - 120Publisher: Cambridge University PressPrint publication year: 2020