Published online by Cambridge University Press: 04 May 2010
Is this the end? Is this the end?
In Memoriam A.H.H. XIISo many worlds, so much to do,
So little done, such things to be.
In Memoriam A.H.H. LXXIIIIn the earlier chapters we have described the mathematical background – and the mathematical details – of many classical linear and nonlinear water-wave phenomena. In addition, in the later chapters, we have presented many of the important and modern ideas that connect various aspects of soliton theory with the mathematical theory of water waves. However, much that is significant in the practical application of theories to real water waves – turbulence, random depth variations, wind shear, and much else – has been omitted. There are two reasons for this: first, most of these features are quite beyond the scope of an introductory text, and, second, the modelling of these types of phenomena follows a less systematic and well-understood path. Of course, that is not meant to imply that these approaches are unimportant; such studies have received much attention, and with good reason since they are essential in the design of man-made structures and in our endeavours to control nature.
What we have attempted here, in a manner that we hope makes the mathematical ideas transparent, is a description of some of the current approaches to the theory of water waves. To this end we have moved from the simplest models of wave propagation over stationary water of constant depth (sometimes including the effects of surface tension), to more involved problems (for example, with ‘shear’ or variable depth), but then only for gravity waves.
To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure [email protected] is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.
Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.
Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.
To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.
To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.