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1883: On the Highest Wave of Uniform Propagation. (Preliminary notice)

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  01 June 2011

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Summary

There is one particular case of possible wave motion, applicable to a fluid of practically infinite depth, in which all the circumstances of the motion admit of being expressed mathematically in finite terms, the necessary equations being satisfied exactly, and not approximately only; while the general expressions contain an arbitrary constant permitting of making the amplitude any whatsoever up to the extreme limit of cycloidal waves, coming to cusps at the crests. This possible solution of the equations was given first by Gerstner, near the beginning of the present century. The motion however to which it relates is not of the irrotational class, and could not therefore be excited in a fluid previously at rest by forces applied to the surface; nor could it be propagated into still water from a disturbance at first at a distance. In fact, the conditions requisite for its existence are of a highly artificial character; so that the chief interest of the solution is one arising from the imperfection of our mathematics, which makes it desirable to discuss a case of possible motion, however artificial the conditions may be, in which everything relating to the motion can be pretty simply expressed in finite terms.

There can be no question however that it is the irrotational class of possible wave motions which possesses the greatest, almost the only, intrinsic interest; since it is this kind alone which can be excited in a fluid previously at rest by means of forces applied to the surface, such for example as the unequal pressure of the wind on the surface, or propagated into previously still water from a distance.

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Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2009
First published in: 1905

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