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8 - ‘A Little Winter Savory, A Little Time’ : Making History in Elizabeth Cromwell’s Kitchen

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 November 2024

Madeline Bassnett
Affiliation:
Western University, Ontario
Hillary Nunn
Affiliation:
University of Akron, Ohio
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Summary

Abstract

This article examines a puzzling question surrounding the 1664 recipe book, The Court & Kitchin of Elizabeth, an anonymous collection purporting to explain the Cromwells’ unfitness to govern by examining their favorite recipes. Scholars have viewed the text as satirizing Elizabeth as stingy in household management and low-class in taste. Yet why would an author opposed to the Cromwells offer the reader a work that invited them to recreate the Cromwellian dining experience for themselves? I argue that the collection draws on the early modern association of the kitchen with the manipulation of time, guiding readers to learn through creating its recipes how to avoid future temporal ruptures of the sort that its author viewed the Protectorate to be.

Keywords: women's writing, food history, recipe books, Cromwell, historiography, early modern literature

How to make a Rare Dutch Pudding.

Take a pound and a half of Fresh Beef, all lean, take a pound and a quarter of Beef Suet, sliced both very small, then take a half penny stale Loaf and grate it, a handful of Sage, and a little Winter Savory, a little Time, shred these very small; take four Eggs, half a pint of Cream, a few Cloves, Nutmegs, Mace and Pepper finely beaten, mingle them altogether very well, with a little Salt, roll it all up together in a green Colwort Leafe, and then tye it up hard in a Linnen Cloth, garnish your Dish with grated bread, and serve it up with Mustard in Sawcers. (47)

The above recipe for a ‘Rare Dutch Pudding’ invites the reader to recreate a moment in history. The recipe opens the 1664 collection, The Court & Kitchin of Elizabeth, Commonly Called Joan Cromwel the Wife of the Late Usurper, the work of an anonymous royalist compiler. Its detailed instructions make Cromwellian England tangible by encouraging early modern readers to put themselves into the bodies of Elizabeth, Oliver, and their household at the table and in the kitchen. Whether actually preparing this pudding, or simply imagining the cooking process, smells, and tastes that go into this meal, readers are connected by this recipe to the recent past.

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In the Kitchen, 1550-1800
Reading English Cooking at Home and Abroad
, pp. 177 - 196
Publisher: Amsterdam University Press
Print publication year: 2022

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