Skip to main content Accessibility help

We use cookies to distinguish you from other users and to provide you with a better experience on our websites. Close this message to accept cookies or find out how to manage your cookie settings.

Close cookie message
×
Hostname: page-component-5cf477f64f-tx7qf Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2025-04-08T13:32:38.440Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

12 - Wave and sediment dynamics

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  18 December 2009

Clifford J. Hearn
Get access

Summary

Introduction

In this chapter, we briefly consider available wave models for coastal basins and the physical conditions which lead to the erosion, transport, and deposition of sediment. Sediments are moved about more in shallow water than in the deep sea, because surface waves can affect the seabed, and tidal currents are typically stronger than in the open ocean, because of increased tidal ranges. Sediment transport and deposition are also more easily studied in shallow water, but the principles governing these processes are as valid in the deep ocean as they are in an estuary, beach, or anywhere there is moving water.

Wave models

Wave modeling in coastal basins is a highly developed tool necessary for both studies of sediment transport and nearshore processes including coastal engineering. As with hydrodynamic models, wave models can be run in both hindcast, nowcast, and forecast modes. Our interest within this chapter is directed towards the use of wave models in sediment transport within coastal basins. The study of all of the techniques of wave modeling is outside our present scope and establishing a wave model for a particular coastal basin requires not only skill, and a proper assessment of the type of predictions that are required from such a model, but also very good data sets to drive, calibrate and verify the model. As a generalization, wave models tend to be much more dependent on good data than are hydrodynamic models since they tend to contain more adjustable parameters.

Type
Chapter
Information
The Dynamics of Coastal Models , pp. 436 - 470
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2008

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Baudo, R. (1990). Sediments. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.Google Scholar
Bennassai, G. (2006). Introduction to Coastal Dynamics and Shoreline Protection. Sonthampton, UK: WIT Press.Google Scholar
Bird, E. (2000). Coastal Geomorphology: An Introduction. New York: John Wiley.Google Scholar
Chung, T. J. (2002). Computational Fluid Dynamics. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Dean, R. G. and Dalrymple, R. A. (2004). Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
DiToro, D. M. (2000). Sediment Flux Modeling. New York: Wiley-Interscience.Google Scholar
Dronkers, J. (2005). Dynamics of Coastal Systems. Singapore: World Scientific Publishing Co.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Dyer, K. R. (1986). Coastal and Estuarine Sediment Dynamics. New York: John Wiley.Google Scholar
Herbich, J. B. (2000). Handbook of Coastal Engineering. New York: McGraw-Hill.Google Scholar
Julien, P. Y. (1998). Erosion and Sedimentation. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Komar, P. D. (1997). Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall.Google Scholar
Mudroch, A. and Azcue, J. (1995). Manual of Aquatic Sediment Sampling. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.Google Scholar
Nielsen, P. (1992). Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport. Singapore: World Scientific Publishing Co.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ochi, M. K., Dyer, I., Taylor, R. E., and Newman, J. N. (2005). Ocean Waves: The Stochastic Approach. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Simon, D. and Senturk, F. (1992). Sediment Transport Technology, Water and Sediment Dynamics. Highlands Ranch, CO: Water Resources Publications.Google Scholar
Svendsen, I. A. (2006). Introduction To Nearshore Hydrodynamics. Singapore: World Scientific Publishing Co.Google Scholar
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (2004). Coastal Groins and Nearshore Breakwaters. Honolulu, HI: University Press of the Pacific.

Save book to Kindle

To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure [email protected] is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

Available formats
×

Save book to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

Available formats
×