In 2013 researchers at a lab in the Netherlands created a hamburger by taking stem cells from a piece of beef and exposing it to a growth hormone to induce growth. The result was a new kind of hamburger: one made from beef, but which was not carved out of the body of an animal. In vitro meat is flesh that was not derived from the carcass of an animal. As such, it redeploys a concept familiar to protectionism, that of meat itself, so as to finally justify a new omnivorism. In vitro meat represents a form of meat-eating that protectionism should condone, even celebrate. Its arrival should prompt us to widen our concept of what meat is to include lab-grown beef, pork, and chicken. It should also oblige us to examine the criticisms of in vitro meat that have been made by thoughtful animal protection philosophers, and show how such criticisms can be overcome. Crucial to doing so is revising our concept of what meat is.