from PART I - GARMENTS
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 25 March 2020
Sum wyfes of the borroustoun
Sa wonder vaine ar, and wantoun.
In warlde thay wait not quhat to weir,
On claythis thay wair monye a croun:
All for newfangilnes of geir.
[Some wives of the borough-town
So wondrous vain are, and wanton,
They don't know what in the world to wear:
On clothes they spend many a crown;
And all for newfangled-ness of fashion.]
—Satire on the Toun Ladyes by Richard MaitlandThe women's clothing records in the Accounts make up about a quarter of the total and include less variety of recipients. They are confined to the Regent's family, his servants and those of his wife and children, and those whom he considered his dependents. A very few charity gifts of clothing were also granted to women. Many listings are for main garments only, as for the most part only the women of the Regent's family and his wards received linens and accessories. The grants to those few, however, give detailed information regarding the colors and fabrics most commonly used for particular garments, the ways in which whole outfits might be assembled, and what types of garments were worn by which classes.
Most of the women represented in the Accounts were members of the upper reaches of society or their personal servants, so the basic list of clothing worn was similar for all, though the quality and specific style of the garments varied based on the status of the wearer. A woman of high rank would begin with a white linen smock and over that wore a kirtle that might be stiffened in the bodice to provide bust support. The kirtle sometimes had sleeves, or separate undersleeves might have been worn with it. A gown was worn over the kirtle and might have been one of several different styles. A partlet of velvet or satin was sometimes worn over the gown. Hose (reaching to the knee and most likely secured with garters tied around the leg just below the knee), shoes, and some form of headwear would have completed the ensemble.
A number of other garments for women are mentioned in the Accounts, among them cloaks, skirts, hoods, hats, safeguards (for riding), and many accessories.
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