Book contents
- The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
- The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
- The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
- Copyright page
- Contents for Volume I
- Figures for Volume I
- Maps for Volume I
- Table for Volume I
- Contributors for Volume I
- Preface
- 1 Global History in the History of Fashion
- Part I Multiple Origins of Fashion
- Part II Early Modern Global Entanglements
- Part III Many Worlds of Fashion
- 13 ‘Black Cloth’
- 14 Fashion and Moral Concern in Early Modern Japan
- 15 Textiles and Fashion in Southeast Asia
- 16 Fashion in Ming and Qing China
- 17 Everyday Fashion in the Ottoman Empire,C. 1600–1800
- 18 Imperialism and Fashion: South Asia, c. 1500–1800
- 19 Fashion Systems in the Indian Ocean World, from Ancient Times to c. 1850
- 20 Fashion and First Peoples in European Settler Societies, c. 1700–1850
- Index
- References
19 - Fashion Systems in the Indian Ocean World, from Ancient Times to c. 1850
from Part III - Many Worlds of Fashion
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 04 August 2023
By
Book contents
- The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
- The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
- The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
- Copyright page
- Contents for Volume I
- Figures for Volume I
- Maps for Volume I
- Table for Volume I
- Contributors for Volume I
- Preface
- 1 Global History in the History of Fashion
- Part I Multiple Origins of Fashion
- Part II Early Modern Global Entanglements
- Part III Many Worlds of Fashion
- 13 ‘Black Cloth’
- 14 Fashion and Moral Concern in Early Modern Japan
- 15 Textiles and Fashion in Southeast Asia
- 16 Fashion in Ming and Qing China
- 17 Everyday Fashion in the Ottoman Empire,C. 1600–1800
- 18 Imperialism and Fashion: South Asia, c. 1500–1800
- 19 Fashion Systems in the Indian Ocean World, from Ancient Times to c. 1850
- 20 Fashion and First Peoples in European Settler Societies, c. 1700–1850
- Index
- References
Summary
In his pioneering studies on the longue durée in the Indian Ocean world, K. N. Chaudhuri stressed the dynamism of dress in this vast region, finding in some instances ‘all the ingredients for high fashion’.1 He forcefully argued for revising Fernand Braudel’s earlier conclusions, based on studies of the greater Mediterranean, that fashion originated in (and was exclusive to) Europe.2 Although not immediately ‘intelligible or accessible to outsiders’, wrote Chaudhuri, the ‘dress habits of the people of the Indian Ocean changed’.3 The basic garment shape or silhouette might endure over time, but those-in-the-know gauged fashionability in subtle modifications of cut, length, pleating, and, above all, in details of fibre, fabric, and ornamentation. Sumptuary laws and cultural norms strongly guided garment choice in many times and places, but even so, dress was continually modified as a powerful signifier of status and allegiance, further open to ‘expressions of individual tastes and preferences’.4
- Type
- Chapter
- Information
- The Cambridge Global History of FashionFrom Antiquity to the Nineteenth Century, pp. 630 - 671Publisher: Cambridge University PressPrint publication year: 2023
References
Select Bibliography
Anawalt, Patricia Rieff, The Worldwide History of Dress (London: Thames & Hudson, 2007).Google Scholar
Barnes, Ruth, Indian Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: The Newberry Collection in the Ashmolean Museum, 2 vols. (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1997).Google Scholar
Beaujard, Philippe, The Worlds of the Indian Ocean: A Global History, 2 vols. (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2019).Google Scholar
Cameron, Judith, ‘The Archaeological Textiles from Ban Don Ta Phet in Broader Perspective’, in Bellina, Berenice (ed.), 50 Years of Archaeology in Southeast Asia: Essays in Honour of Ian Glover (Bangkok: River Books, 2010), 141–51.Google Scholar
Canepa, Matthew P., ‘Textiles and Elite Tastes between the Mediterranean, Iran and Asia at the End of Antiquity’, in Nosch, Marie-Louise, Feng, Zhao, and Varadarajan, Lotika (eds.), Global Textile Encounters (Oxford: Oxbow, 2014), 1–14.Google Scholar
Casson, Lionel (ed)., The Periplus Maris Erythraei: Text with Introduction, Translation, and Commentary (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1989).Google Scholar
Chaudhuri, K. N., Asia before Europe: Economy and Civilisation of the Indian Ocean from the Rise of Islam to 1750 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1990).Google Scholar
Chaudhuri, K. N., Trade and Civilisation in the Indian Ocean: An Economic History from the Rise of Islam to 1750 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1985).Google Scholar
Fee, Sarah, ‘The King’s New Clothing: Re-Dressing the Body Politic in Madagascar, c. 1815–1861’, in Lemire, Beverly and Riello, Giorgio (eds.), Dressing Global Bodies: The Politics of Fashion in World History (Abingdon: Routledge, 2020), 153–81.Google Scholar
Gibb, H. A. R. (ed.), The Travels of Ibn Battûta, 4 vols. (London: Hakluyt Society, 1962).Google Scholar
Good, Irene, ‘Early Iranian Textiles and Their Influence on Pre-Islamic Dress’, in Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian (ed.), Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Vol. 5: Central and Southwest Asia (London: Bloomsbury, 2010).Google Scholar
Gordon, Stewart, Khil’at in Pre-Colonial and Colonial India (New Delhi: Oxford University Press, 2003).Google Scholar
Gordon, Stewart, Robes of Honour: The Medieval World of Investiture (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2001).Google Scholar
Guy, John, Woven Cargoes: Indian Textiles in the East (New York: Thames & Hudson, 1998).Google Scholar
Heng, Derek, ‘Distributive Networks, Sub-Regional Tastes and Ethnicity: The Trade in Chinese Textiles in Southeast Asia from the Tenth to Fourteenth Centuries CE’, in Machado, Pedro, Fee, Sarah, and Campbell, Gwyn (eds.), Textile Trades, Consumer Cultures, and the Material Worlds of the Indian Ocean (Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, 2018), 159–80.Google Scholar
Lee, Peter, Sarong Kebaya: Peranakan Fashion in an Interconnected World 1500–1950 (Singapore: Asian Civilisations Museum, 2014).Google Scholar
Maxwell, Robyn, Sari to Sarong: Five Hundred Years of Indian and Indonesian Textile Exchange (Canberra: National Gallery of Australia, 2003).Google Scholar
Prestholdt, Jeremy, ‘As Artistry Permits and Custom May Ordain. The Social Fabric of Material Consumption in the Swahili World, circa 1450–1600’, PAS Working Papers, 3 (Evanston: Northwestern University, 1998).Google Scholar
Serjeant, R. B., Islamic Textiles: Material for a History up to the Mongol Conquest (Beirut: Librairie du Liban, 1972).Google Scholar
Stillman, Yedida, Arab Dress: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times (Leiden: Brill, rev. 2nd edition, 2003).Google Scholar
Wild, John Peter and Wild, Felicity, ‘Berenike and Textile Trade on the Indian Ocean’, in Droß-Krüpe, Kerstin (ed.), Textile Trade and Distribution in Antiquity (Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz Verlag, 2014), 91–109.Google Scholar