On the medieval porch of the Haram-el-Ibrahimi, the great mosque of Hebron whose proud and massive walls are a monument from Herodian rimes, three Israeli soldiers stand guard. Leaning nonchalantly on their machine guns, they scrutinize the visitors, courteously asking them to put on the head covering that is strictly required in synagogues. As one climbs the long stone staircase toward the entrance of the mosque the sound of a Jewish liturgical chant, at first faint and indistinct, grows louder until it becomes deafening.
About a hundred faithful, many of them soldiers in uniform with their heads capped with yarmulkes, stand and shake to and fro before the candlelit Torah fervently celebrating their office. For the first time in fourteen centuries Jews are able to worship in the building that contains the "Tombs of the Patriarchs" Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, a site sacred to both Muslim and Jew.