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2. Data on the Belleek lace and sprigging industry is from the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland (P.R.O.N.I.), Mss D2149.

3. Both examples from Honiton Lace Industry, pp.2 and 5 [124.], H.C. 1888, pp. 494 and 497.

4. See MrsPallister, Bury, A Descriptive Catalogue of the Lace and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum (London, 1870), p. 49Google Scholar; Fourth Report of the Department of Science and Art, pp. 157–58, H.C. 1857, xx, pp. 203–4Google Scholar; Blackburn, Helen (ed.), A Handy Book of Reference for Irishwomen (London, 1888), pp. 52–3 and 82.Google Scholar

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6. For some excellent examples, see ‘Old Irish Farmers’, Irish Peasant, 23rd December 1905, n.p.; ‘Slaney’, ‘Work for United Irishwomen’, Irish Homestead, [hereafter, IH], 4th November 1911, pp. 871–2; n.a., Ireland of To-Day (London, 1913), p. 305Google Scholar; and ‘Mire’, ‘Industrial Possibilities’, United Irishman, 4 October 1902, p. 5.

7. For a lengthy example of such debates, see Irish Technical Association Annual Congress. Killarney…1914 (Cork, 1915), pp. 62ffGoogle Scholar and Roche, Katherine, ‘The Lady Teachers’ Own Page’, Irish School Weekly, 15 11 1913, p. 266.Google Scholar

8. ‘Home Industries’, IH, 17 June 1905, p. 470Google Scholar; ‘Meath Home Industries Exhibition’, Warder, 21st May 1898, p. 7Google Scholar; Smith-Gordon, Lionel and Staples, Laurence C., Rural Reconstruction in Ireland (New Haven, 1919), p. 194.Google Scholar

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10. Harty, J.M., ‘The Living Wage’, Irish Theological Quarterly, 11.8 (10, 1907), p. 429Google Scholar and ‘Rural Industries Ahead’, IH, 25 January 1908, p. 61.Google Scholar

11. Annual reports of the Congested Districts Board [hereafter, C.D.B.], as published in the British Parliamentary Papers.

12. Co-Operative Societies. Board of Trade (Labour Department), Report on Industrial and Agricultural Co-Operative Societies in the United Kingdom With Statistical Tables, p. 24 [Cd.6045], H. C. 1912–13, lxxv, p. 526.

13. Registry of Friendly Societies, Dublin, Files 442 R Mayo; 706 R Kings’ and 615 R Meath.

14. From the annual reports of the D.A.T.I. for Ireland, published in the British Parliamentary Papers.

15. D.A.T.I. for Ireland. Twelfth Annual General Report of the Department, for 1911–1912, p. 134 [Cd.6647], H.C. 1912–13, xii, p. 664, report by Miss Anderson, inspectoress of home industries.

16. Carlile, Blanche, ‘Lace and the North Bucks Lace Association’, The Empire Review, IV (1903), pp. 607–8.Google Scholar

17. Quoted in Spenceley, , “The Lace Association”, p. 451.Google Scholar

18. Lace and Embroidery Review, April, 1912, p. 34.

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24. D.A.T.I, for Ireland. Fourteenth Annual General Report, for 1913–1914, p. 138 [Cd.7839], H. C. 1914–16, vi, p. 145.

25. Honiton Lace Industry, p. 3 (p. 495); contracts and letters between the Coleraine Woollen Manufacturing Company and Edmund F. McCambridge, general merchant of Ballycastle and agent, c.1903, in P.R.O.N.I. D1376/5/6; and Report of the Commissioners Appointed to Inquire into the Truck System; Together with Minutes of Evidence. Vol.11. Minutes of Evidence, p. 875 [C.327], H.C. 1871, xxxvi, p. 1157, evidence by William H. Beadon.

26. C.D.B. for Ireland. Tenth Report of the C.D.B. for Ireland, for the Year Ending 31st March, 1901, p. 44 [Cd.681], H. C. 1901, lx, p.45 and C.D.B. for Ireland. Fourteenth Report of the C.D.B., for Ireland for the Year Ending 31st March, 1905, p. 33 [Cd.2757], H. C. 1906, xcvii, p.387.

27. See Belleek Needlework Class (county Fermanagh), Correspondence between Miss M. A. Doland and Ireland Brothers and Warings of London, P.R.O.N.I. D2149/8/1.

28. Fletcher, George, ‘The Functions of the Department in Relation to Rural Industries’, D.A.T.I. for Ireland Journal, 7.4 (07, 1907), pp. 667–68.Google Scholar

29. ‘Special Commissioner of the Daily Express’, Mr. Balfour's Tours in Connemara and Donegal (London, n.d.), p. 59Google Scholar, quoting F. Lague, parish priest of Kilcar (county Donegal).

30. Donaldson, S. E., ‘Irish Lace’, I.T.J., 15 08 1891, p. 96.Google Scholar

31. Moody, A. Penderel, Devon Pillow Lace (London, 1908), p. 3.Google Scholar

32. Cole, , ‘Report’, p. 9.Google Scholar

33. Fawcett, Waldon, ‘Making and Marketing Handmade Lace in Ireland’, Lace and Embroidery Review, viii.4 (07, 1912), p. 57.Google Scholar

34. Quoted in Jourdain, M., Old Lace (London, 1908), p. 95.Google Scholar

35. Carnes, Arthur A., An Old English Cottage Industry (Bedford, 1918), p. 2.Google Scholar

36. ‘Home Industries’, IH, 17 June 1905, p. 470Google Scholar and ‘Keep a Tight Grip on your Business’, IH, 25 January 1908, p. 61.Google Scholar

37. Royal Commission on Congestion in Ireland. Appendix to the Eighth Report. Minutes of Evidence (Taken in Kerry and Cork, 3rd to 19th July, 1907), and Documents Relating Thereto, pp. 71–2 [Cd.3839], H. C. 1908, xli, pp. 145–6, evidence by O'Riordan, Canon Humphrey, and ‘A Mere Woman’, ‘Women's Work in the Technical Schools’, Leader, 25 06 1910, p. 401.Google Scholar

38. ‘Report Upon Visit to Irish Lace Making and Embroidery Schools in 1897’ (Department of Science and Art, 1897), p.5. Also see Wardle, Patricia, Victorian Lace (London, 1968), pp. 177–8Google Scholar for more examples.

39. ‘Overproduction in Lace’, IH, 11 July 1903, p. 562Google Scholar; Moody, A. Penderel, Devon Pillow Lace (London, 1908), p. 74Google Scholar; Commission on the Employment of Children, Young Persons, and Women in Agriculture (1867), Appendix Part II to the First Report. Evidence from the Assistant Commissioners, p. 524 [.4068–1], H.C. 1867–68, xvii, p. 462; Honiton Lace Industry, p. 2 (p. 494); The Connoisseur, xxxviii (1914), p. 256; and Carlile, ‘Lace and the North Bucks Lace Association’, pp. 609–10.

40. Swain, M. H., The Flowerers (London, 1955), p. 56.Google Scholar Also see The Connoisseur, xiv (1906), p. 188Google Scholar; Lowes, , Chats, p. 171Google Scholar; Carlile, , ‘Lace and the North Bucks Lace Association’, p. 609Google Scholar; and Jourdain, M., Old Lace (London, 1908), p. 91.Google Scholar

41. For a discussion of the impact of this legislation on training in lacemaking, see The Connoisseur, xxxviii (1914), p. 256.Google Scholar

42. Honiton Lace Industry, p. 4 (p. 497).

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44. Irish Technical Instruction Association Annual Congress. Killarney….1914 (Cork, 1915), p. 76Google Scholar; ‘Minutes of the Meeting of the Technical Instruction Committee, Thursday, 4 August 1904’, p. 62, in Minute Book, Cork Archives, U189; and ‘A Mere Woman’, ‘Women's Work in the Technical Schools’, The Leader, 25 June 1910, pp. 400–1. The D.A.T.I., for example, had a rule that Irish instructresses could not be employed in their home county. Nearly twenty per cent of the lacemakers from the Irish Normal Lace School between 1851 and 1855 went to teach lace in country schools which were subsequently closed partly because of ‘opposition caused by party spirit’: Third Report of the Department of Science and Art, pp. 187–8 [..], H.C. 1856, xxiv, pp. 221–22.

45. First Report of the Department of Practical Art, pp. 367–68, H.C. 1852–3, liv, p. 381–82; ‘Report on Cotton Print Works and Lace Making’ by Mr. Octavius Hudson, Appendix vii.

46. D.A.T.I. for Ireland. Fifth Annual General Report of the Department, for 1904–1905, p. 61 [Cd.2929], H.C. 1906, xxiii, p. 363; ‘Irish Lace Makers’, Kings’ County Chronicle, 9 September 1886, p. 4; ‘Revival of Irish Lace Making’, I.T.J., 15 January 1897, p. 157; ‘Wanted a New Industry’, IH, 26 March 1898, p. 279; ‘Castlebellinham’, IH, 28 March 1903, p. 259; ‘Irish Crochet’, IH, 13 January 1905, p. 23; Lindsay, Irish Lace, p. 25; ‘Monthly Reports’, I.T.J., 15 February 1894, p. 21.

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48. Curran, May, United Irishman, 19 11 1904, p. 6Google Scholar and Cole, , Renascence, pp. 36–7.Google Scholar

49. Mrs. Head, 1922, p. 90. Also see Jourdain, M., ‘English Pillow Lace. Part I’, The Connoisseur, xx, p. 267.Google Scholar

50. Examples of Lace (Newport Pagnell, 1904), p. 7Google Scholar and The Connoisseur, xiv (1906), p. 52Google Scholar and Cole, , Renascence, p. xxxiv.Google Scholar

51. Hawthorn, Helen, ‘Dress, Gossip and Cookery’, Ireland's Own, 17 06 1903, p. 12.Google Scholar

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54. Royal Commission on Congestion in Ireland. Appendix to the Tenth Report. Minutes of Evidence (Taken in Counties Galway and Roscommmon, 18th September, to 4th October, 1907), and Documents Relating Thereto, p. 53 [Cd.4007], H. C. 1908, xlii, p. 151, evidence by W. J. D. Walker. Similar evidence is provided by Rev. Michael McHugh, parish priest at Carna, in the same report, p. 49 (p. 147).

55. Berkeley, George H., ‘Home Work and Small Industries in Italy’, New Ireland Review, xxx.2 (10 1908), p. 65Google Scholar; SirDoran, Henry, ‘Self-Help Among the Western “Congests” in Fitzgerald, N. G. (ed.), The Voice of Ireland (Dublin, 1924), p. 335Google Scholar; ‘K’, ‘In the Kingdom of Thomond’, IH, 20 02 1904, p. 153Google Scholar; ‘O'S’, United Irishman, 5 04 1902, p. 6Google Scholar; and SirPlunkett, Horace, The Problem of Congestion in Ireland (Dublin, 1907), p. 38.Google Scholar

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57. Alan S. Cole, ‘Report on Northamptonshire, Bucks, and Bedfordshire Lace-Making’, November 1891, p. 6, held in the National Art Library, Kensington, and Moody, A. Penderel, Devon Pillow Lace (London, 1908), p. 2.Google Scholar

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62. Quoted in Boyle, Elizabeth, ‘Embroidery and Lacemaking in Ulster’, Ulster Folklife, 10 (1964), p. 8.Google Scholar

63. Irish Home Industries Association (Dublin, 1887), p. 20.Google Scholar

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65. Cole, ‘Report’, pp. 2 and 6; Northampton Independent, 28 March 1914; Channer, C. and Roberts, M. E., Lacemaking in the Midlands (London, 1900), pp. 62–63Google Scholar; and see Armstrong's discussion with an 85 year old Buckinghamshire lacemaker, in MrsArmstrong, H.H., A Sixteenth Century Industry (Bucks, c.1924), p. vii.Google Scholar

66. Cole, , ‘Report’, p. 7.Google Scholar Spelling as in original.

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71. Forty-five per cent of households involved in the homemade lace industry contained five or more adults, compared with thirty-four per cent of households not involved in making lace. The person called the ‘ head of the household’ was two-times more likely to be designated no occupation in households where women made lace compared with non-lacemaking households (twenty-six per cent compared with twelve per cent). Eighteen per cent of lacemakers were married compared with thirty-seven per cent of adult women not working with lace. One quarter were widowed and fifty-seven per cent were unmarried, compared with eleven and fifty-two per cent of non-lacemakers. Thirty per cent of lacemakers were the ‘Head of the household’ compared with sixteen per cent of non-lacemakers. Twenty-three per cent of lacemakers were relatives, but not members of the C. F. U. compared with fifteen per cent of non-lacemakers. Only sixteen per cent of lacemakers were married to the ‘Head of the Household’, while one-third of non-lacemakers were married to the ‘Head’.

72. C.D.B. in Ireland. Nineteenth Report of the C.D.B. for Ireland for the Period 1st April 1909 to the 31st March, 1911, With Audited Accounts to the 31st March 1910, p. 34 [Cd.5712], H.C. 1911, xiii, p. 430; ‘Home Industries in Relation to Agriculture’, IH, 7 February 1903, p. 102; I.A.O.S., I.A.O.S. Annual Report 1897 (Dublin, 1898)Google Scholar, appendix F., ‘The Second Annual Conference of Delegates from Co-Operative Dairy and Agricultural Societies’, p. 38, comment by Mr. Flynn of the Ballinagleragh Industries Society; ‘Report of Inspectors re. Sweating in Making-Up and Embroidery Trades’, c.1910, probably county Tyrone, P.R.O.N.I. D3480/41; Martin, R. M., ‘The Manufacture of Lace and Crochet’, Irish Rural Life and Industry (Dublin, 1907), pp. 129–30Google Scholar; ‘The Bye-Products of a Home Industry Society’, IH, 8 02 1908, p. 106Google Scholar; and ‘D.A.T.I. for Ireland, Council of Agriculture, Fourth Meeting, Thursday, 5th March 1903, Report of Proceedings’, p. 26, National Library of Ireland, comment by R. A. Anderson; Honiton Lace Industry, p. 5 (p. 497).

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78. C.D.B. for Ireland. Sixteenth Report of the C.D.B. for Ireland, for the Year Ending 31st March, 1907, p. 27 [Cd.3767], H. C. 1908, xxiii, p. 313. The attendance statistics given in the Daily Report Book of Industrial Instruction by the workmistress at the Carclinty National School confirms low attendance at the needlework classes (both absolutely and relative to attendance at other classes) of women during the months of April through to June and in August, P.R.O.N.I. SCH 548/8C/1.

79. Letter dated 21 May 1908, P.R.O.N.I. D2149/7. Sentence construction as in original.

80. Belleek Needlework industry (county Fermanagh), wage books, P.R.O.N.I. D2149/3/10 and D2149/3/3.

81. Royal Commission on Congestion for Ireland. Appendix to the Eighth Report. Minutes of Evidence (Taken in Kerry and Cork, 3rd to 19th July, 1907), and Documents Relating Thereto, p. 189 [Cd.3839], H. C. 1908, xli, p. 635, evidence by Captain Richard W. Cooper.

82. ‘Keilam’, ‘Household Hints. The Power of the Purse’, IH, 19 01 1901, p. 44.Google Scholar

83. Micks, W.L., History of the C.D.B. (Dublin, 1925), p. 67.Google Scholar Also see Carlile, , ‘Lace and the North Bucks Lace Association’, pp. 609–10.Google Scholar

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85. MrsLowes, , Chats on Old Lace and Needlework (London, 1908), p. 175.Google Scholar

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88. Mies, Maria, The Lace Makers of Narsapur (London, 1982), pp. 33ffGoogle Scholar draws the same conclusion when discussing the introduction of the lace industry in India.

89. D.A.T.I. for Ireland. Twelfth Annual General Report of the Department, for 1911–1912, pp. 123–4 [Cd.6647], H. C. 1912–13, xii, pp. 653–4, report by Mr. McGann, inspector in west-central districts.

90. D.A.T.I. for Ireland. Fourth Annual General Report of the Department, for 1903–1904, pp. 6–7 [Cd.2509], H. C. 1905, xxi, pp. 272–3.

91. The St. Macartan's Co-Operative Lace Industry was one of the few remunerative lace classes, with 200 workers. ‘Dromore’, IH, 30 July 1904, p. 632 and ‘Co-Operation and the Improvement of the Home’, IH, 22 October 1904, p. 892.

92. Plunkett, , Problem of Congestion, p. 41.Google Scholar

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94. Duffy, Katherine E., ‘Some Thoughts on the Curriculum of Secondary Schools’, Irish Educational Review, III, 2 (11 1909), p. 80Google Scholar; Appendix to the Fifty-Sixth Report of the Commissions of National Education in Ireland, for the Year 1889, p. 8 [C.6074–1], H. C. 1890, xxx, p. 152; Seventy-Second Report of the Commissioners of National Education in Ireland, the School Year 1905–1906, p. 18 [Cd.3154], H. C. 1906, xxix, p. 653; Roche, Katharine, ‘The Lady Teachers' Own Page’, Irish School Weekly, 20 12 1913, p. 424Google Scholar; ‘Miss Prendergast on the Decadence of Needlework in the Schools’, Irish School Weekly, 25 11 1905, p. 60Google Scholar; and ‘ Minutes of the Proceedings of the Commissioners of National Education at Their Meeting, Tuesday, 9 July 1912’, p. 275, where Miss Prendergast, in charge of needlework, resigned and proposed that the departments of needlework and cookery be amalgamated.

95. Appendix to the Sixty-Sixth Report of the Commissioners of National Education, for the Year 1899–1900. Section 1. General Reports on the State of National Education in 1899 by Inspectors and Others, pp. 58–9 [Cd.286], H. C. 1900, xxiii, pp. 312–13, report on the Limerick District by G. Bateman.

96. D.A.T.I. for Ireland. Seventh Annual General Report of the Department, for 1906–1907, p. 72 [Cd.4148], H. C. 1908, xiv, p. 669; ‘D.A.T.I. for Ireland, Council of Agriculture, Eleventh Meeting, Friday, 17 May 1907, Report of Proceedings’, pp. 80–85; ‘Minutes of Meeting of the Technical Instruction Committee, Thursday 19 April 1906’, p. 167, Cork Archives Minute Book U189; ‘Home Industries’, IH, 17th June 1905, p. 470; and Royal Commission on Congestion in Ireland. First Appendix to the Seventh Report. Minutes of Evidence (Taken in Ireland, 16th May to 11th June, 1907), and Documents Relating Thereto, pp. 122–3 [Cd.3785], H. C. 1908, xl, p. 210–13, evidence by Rev. Philip O’Doherty, parish priest of Cumber-Claudy (counties Londonderry and Tyrone).

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