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Textiles and their painted imitations in early medieval Rome
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 09 August 2013
Tessuti e le loro imitazioni dipinte nella roma alto medievale
L'articolo esamina il fenomeno dell'imitazione dei tendaggi, o vela, che furono dipinti sui plinti delle mura delle chiese a Roma durante l'alto medioevo. La ricomparsa di questa pratica, che ha precedenti in epoca classica, avvenuta a Roma intorno al 700 d.C., è collegata con la contemporanea diffusione di idee artistiche e liturgiche provenienti da Bisanzio, così come al fiorire di commerci legati ai tessuti che potrebbero essere stati utilizzati come modelli per tali copie dipinte. Vari siti della Roma medievale sono qui analizzati, compresi S. Maria Antiqua, S. Clemente, S. Crisogono, e S. Saba; viene inoltre formulato un modello che tenga conto dei cambiamenti delle forme e dei motivi decorativi dei vela durante l'ottavo, il nono e il decimo secolo.
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References
1 Research for this paper was supported over three years by a grant from the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada, for whose generosity I am extremely grateful. I should also like to thank Julian Gardner and Roger Ling, for their prompt responses to queries about bibliography, and Lesley Jessop and Gillian Mackie, who provided valuable research assistance in the initial stages.
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23 See discussion of values by Sabbe, ibid., 1283–5.
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26 Cf. summary of subject matter by Croquison, 581–97.
27 Liber Pontificalis ii, 9Google Scholar.
28 For example Peter and Paul (ibid., ii, 2), Anastasius (ii, 11) or Lawrence (ii, 120).
29 Ibid., ii, 25. For a discussion of the iconography see Croquison, 585–6.
30 For example, vestes presented by Leo III to Susanna, S. and Prisca, S. (Liber Pontificalis ii, 3, 4)Google Scholar.
31 For example the gift of Leo III to S. Erasmo: ‘Item… fecit veste de stauraci cum cruces el gamadias’ (ibid, ii, 9). One can postulate that the gamma-shaped designs were arranged to form a frame for the central image, in a similar manner to those depicted on the altar in the sixth-century mosaic of the Sacrifices of Abel and Melchizedek in S. Vitale, Ravenna.
32 For example, ‘pavones’ (ibid., ii, 55), ‘aquilas’ (ii, 75, 77, 109, 111, 114), ‘cum leonibus’ (ii, 75, 76, 79), ‘cum storia de elefantos’ (ii, 12), ‘crifas’ (ii, 32), ‘cum grifis’ (ii, 79), ‘cum chriphis et unicornibus’ (ii, 75). Numerous early medieval silks with animal or bird designs still survive: cf. for example the discussion of fragments depicting elephants and eagles in Beckwith, J., ‘Byzantine Tissues’, Actes du XIVe Congrès International des Etudes Byzantines (Bucharest, 1974), 343–53, esp. 350–2Google Scholar and figs 25–30; and Muthesius, A., ‘A practical approach to the history of Byzantine silk weaving’, Jahrbuch der Osterreichischen Byzantinistik 34 (1984), 235–54Google Scholar. For silks depicting griffins see Beckwith, figs 31–2.
33 Ibid., ii, 75. It is tempting to think that the mucrones may refer to the stylized ivy leaf forms which would later represent the suit of swords (spades) in modern playing cards. Our text says only that they are ‘per circuitu’, making an interesting parallel to the textile in the Vatican Museum which uses the leaf/spade motif as a border design: cf. Volbach, W. F., ‘Prima relazione sulle nuove stoffe del Museo Sacro Vaticano’, Atti della Pontificia Accademia Romana di Archeologia. Rendiconti 10 (1934) [1935] 177–96Google Scholar, esp. 183.
34 Typical references include ‘iuxta ianuas maiores argenteas cortinam’ (ibid. i, 499), ‘cortinam … sub arco maiore’ (i, 499), ‘cortinam ante absidam’ (i, 501), and ‘cortinam… in arcum triumphalem’ (ii, 79).
35 Typical references include ‘vela… inter columnas’ (ibid., i, 383, 432), ‘per diversos arcos… vela’ (i, 499), ‘vela… quae pendent in arcora’ (ii, 2) and ‘vela… pendentes inter columnas maiores’ (ii, 13).
36 Ibid., ii, 13: ‘vela… XCVI, ex quibus duo habentes in medio cruces de chrisoclabo cum orbiculis’ (gift of pope Leo III to St Peter's).
37 Crostarosa, P., ‘Le basiliche cristiane’, Dissertazioni della Pontificia Accademia Romana di Archeologia ser. II t. iv (1892), 311–99.Google Scholar
38 Liber Pontificalis entries include ‘velum… habentem periclisin in rotas cum aucellos’ (ii, 2), ‘tetravila … cum astillis et rosis’ (ii, 8), ‘vela… habentes tigris de chrisoclabo’ (ii, 29), ‘velum rubeum cum avicellis diversis’ (ii, 96), ‘vela leonum habentia istorias’ (ii, 109) and ‘vela cum aquilis’ (ii, 121). Figural scenes are rarer but include ‘vela crisoclaba per arcos presbiterii, habentia storia dominicae Passionis atque Resurrectionis domini nostri Iesu Christi, numero XLVI’ (ii, 62), and ‘vela chrisoclaba per arcos presbiterii, habentem storiam de mirabilibus apostolorum…, numero XLVI’ (ii, 54). Both were papal gifts to St Peter's.
39 Ibid., ii, 31–2.
40 Ibid., ii, 154.
41 See discussion of Guillou, A., ‘Rome, centre transit des produits de luxe d'Orient au Haut Moyen Age’, Zograf 10 (1979), 17–21Google Scholar, and idem, ‘Bisanzio, Roma e l'Italia nell'alto medioevo’, Bisanzio, Roma e l'Italia nell' Alto Medioevo (Spoleto, 1988), 919–43, esp. 936–9.
42 MGH Epistolae iii (Berlin, 1957), 514–7 (Codex Carolinus 17)Google Scholar.
43 Alcuin, , The Bishops, Kings and Saints of York, ed. Godman, Peter (Oxford, 1982), line 1268Google Scholar.
44 Croquison, , ‘L'iconographie chrétienne’, 603–4Google Scholar.
45 A glossary explaining the etymology of some of these terms is included by Petriaggi, 43–4.
46 Liber Pontificalis ii, 2Google Scholar and thereafter. It is interesting to note that the adjective ‘alexandrinus’ is restricted to curtains and veils, and seems not to have been used in conjunction with altarcloths (vestes), whereas there are frequent donations of a ‘veste tyrea’. There is a single reference to a ‘pannum alexandrinum’ (ii, 61). For the history of textile production in Alexandria during the Byzantine and Islamic periods see Marzouk, M., History of Textile Industry in Alexandria (Alexandria, 1955)Google Scholar.
47 Ibid., ii, 11: ‘vestes II, una… bizantea cum chrisoclabo’.
48 See for example ibid., ii, 57 (Paschal I), 78 (Gregory IV), 93 (Sergius II), and 194 (Stephen V). For the etymology, see Petriaggi, 43.
49 Liber Pontificalis ii, 30Google Scholar.
50 Ibid., ii, 75, 107, 122, 128, 130, 132.
51 Gesta abbatum Fontanellensium, ed. Loewenfeld, S.. MGH Scriptores Rerum Germanicarum in usum scholarum (Hannover, 1886), 53Google Scholar
52 See Carusi, E., ‘Intorno al “Commemoratorium” dell'abbate Teobaldo (a. 1019–22)’, Bullettino dell'Istituto Storico Italiano e Archivio Muratoriano 47 (1932), 173–88, esp. 187Google Scholar
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55 Ibid., ii, 96.
56 Ibid., ii, 109, 111, 119, 120, 125, 129, 130. The most elaborate of these, an altarcloth presented to St Peter's, depicted the pope offering to Christ a model of the newly constructed ‘Leonine city’. These portraits, none of which survive, are discussed by Ladner, G., I ritratti dei Papi nell' antichità e nel medioevo i (Vatican City, 1941), 150–2Google Scholar.
57 Technical studies of early medieval silks reveal the difficulty and complexity of the task in producing repeats of even simple woven designs. For example, it has been calculated that ‘no less than 1440 manipulations of the figure-harness were required to weave one repeat of the Aachen elephant silk’ (Muthesius, 254).
58 Liber Pontificalis ii, 57Google Scholar: ‘vestem de blatin bizantea, habentem in medio tabulam de chrisoclabo cum storia qualiter angelus beatam Caeciliam seu Valerianum et Tyburtium coronavit’. For the possibility of embroidered scenes being added in Rome, see also the discussion of Beissel, 373.
59 Agnellus, Liber Pontificalis Ecclesiae Ravennatis, cap. 80: ‘Iussit ipse endothim bissinam preciosissimam, cui similem nunquam videre potuimus, aculis factam, omnem Salvatoris nostri historiam cuntinentem’. MGH Scriptores Rerum Langobardicarum et Italicarum, saec. VI-IX (Hannover, 1878), 332Google Scholar. The passage is translated by Mango, C., The Art of the Byzantine Empire, 312–1453. Sources and Documents (Englewood Cliffs, 1972), 106–7Google Scholar. For a discussion of this and other decorated altarcloths described in this text see Bovini, G., ‘Le “tovaglie d'altare” ricamate ricordate da Andrea Agnellus nel Liber Pontificalis Ecclesiae Ravennatis’, Corsi di Cultura sull 'Arte Ravennate e Bizantina 21 (1974), 77–90Google Scholar.
60 Agnellus, cap. 83: ‘Ex quorum [magorum] amore iste beatissimus Agnellus partem endothim bissinam, unde superius fecimus mentionem, quam Maximianus praedecessor iustius non explevit, iste magorum istoriam perfecte ornavit, et sua effigies mechanico opere aculis inserta est’. MGH Scriptores Rerum Langobardicarum et Italicarum, 334. See also Mango, Art of the Byzantine Empire, 108.
61 Gesta Episcoporum Neapolitanorum: ‘Supra quod velamen coopervit, in quo martyrium sancti Ianuarii eiusque sociorum acu pictili opere digessit’. MGH Scriptores Rerum Langobardicarum et Italicarum, 434.
62 Liber Pontificalis ii, 108Google Scholar: ‘velum acupictile, habentem hominis effigiem sedentis super pavonem I’; and ii, 120: ‘vestes de fundato III, habentes unam quidem tabulam acupictilem interclusam’.
63 See Campanati, R. Farioli, ‘La cultura artistica nelle regioni bizantine d'Italia dal VI all'XI secolo’, I Bizantini in Italia (Milan, 1982), 137–426, esp. 425 and pl. 351.Google Scholar
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65 See Longman, L., ‘Two fragments of an early textile in the Museo Cristiano’, The Art Bulletin 12 (1930), 115–30CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Volbach, W. F., I tessuti del Museo Sacro Vaticano (Vatican City, 1942), 39–40, nos. 104–5Google Scholar; and The Vatican Collections. The Papacy and Art (New York, 1982), 102–3, no. 39Google Scholar.
66 For the most recent discussion see Martiniani-Reber, M., ‘Nouveau regard sur les soieries de l'Annonciation et de la Nativité du Sancta Sanctorum’, Bulletin de Liaison du Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens 63–4 (1986), 12–9Google Scholar; and M. and D. King, ‘The Annunciation and Nativity silks: a supplementary note’, ibid. 20–1. An earlier attempt to locate their place of manufacture in Syria depended both on an unproven link between the two fragments and a specific passage in the Liber Pontificalis biography of Leo III, and an erroneous translation of the Latin word sirica (which means ‘silken’, not ‘Syrian’): see de Francovich, G., ‘La brocca d'oro del tesoro della chiesa di Saint Maurice d'Agaune nel Vallese e i tessuti di Bisanzio e della Siria nel periodo iconoclastico’, Arte in Europa. Scritti di storia dell 'arte in onore di Edoardo Arslan (Milan, 1966), 133–75, esp. 164Google Scholar.
67 See d'Adamo, L., ‘La couverture en soie de l'Evangéliaire de Santa Maria in via Lata au Vatican: une proposition de datation et attribution’, Bulletin de Liaison du Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens 51–2 (1980), 10–26Google Scholar.
68 The most recent discussions are by de Vos, M., ‘Scavi nuovi sconosciuti (I 9, 13): pitture e pavimenti della Casa di Cerere a Pompeii’, Mededelingen van het Nederlands Instituut te Rome 38 (1976), 37–75, esp. 53Google Scholar; Barbet, A., La Peinture Murale Romaine (Paris, 1985), 27–9Google Scholar; and Laidlaw, A., The First Style in Pompeii: Painting and Architecture (Rome, 1985), 31–2Google Scholar. For the Centuripe house see Libertini, G., Centuripe (Catania, 1926), 58Google Scholar and pl. IV. For the Brescia temple, Gabelmann, H., ‘Das Kapitol in Brescia’, Jahrbuch des Römisch-germanischen Zentralmuseums Mainz 18 (1971), 124–45Google Scholar; Stella, C., ‘Il tempio repubblicano’, Brescia romana (Brescia, 1979) i, 25–45, esp. 34–7Google Scholar; and eadem, Guida del Museo Romano di Brescia (Brescia, 1987), 17Google Scholar.
69 See for example Maiuri, A. in Notizie degli Scavi di Antichità (1929), 367–8Google Scholar.
70 See De Rossi, , ‘La basilica profana di Giunio Basso’, 54–9Google Scholar; Cagiano de Azevedo, M., ‘La datazione delle tarsie della basilica di Giunio Basso’, Atti della Pontificia Accademia Romana di Archeologia Rendiconti 40 (1968), 151–70.Google Scholar
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72 See Rassart-Debergh, M., ‘La décoration picturale du monastère de Saqqara. Essai de reconstitution’, Acta ad Archaeologiam et Artium Historiam Pertinentia 9 (1981), 9–124, esp. 23, 31, and pi. IIIa.Google Scholar
73 Clédat, J., Le Monastère et la Nècropole de Baouît 2 vols (Cairo, 1904–6, 1916)Google Scholar, i, fasc. 1, 64 (chapel 12), and fasc. 2, 160 (chapel 28).
74 Ibid. i, fasc. 1, 24, 53; fasc. 2, 92–3, 106, 119; Rassart-Debergh, figs 17–19, 22.
75 Cf. Restle, M., Die Byzantinische Wandmalereien in Kleinasien (Recklinghausen, 1967), pls 302, 328, 474, 481–2, 498 and 503Google Scholar.
76 The major study, incorporating earlier bibliography, is Sansterre, J.-M., Les moines grecs et orientaux à Rome aux époques byzantine et carolingienne 2 vols (Brussels, 1983)Google Scholar.
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78 Cf. the similar ‘rosettes’ at Bawît (chapel 32): Clédat, ii, pl. XI.
79 The attribution to Paul I was first proposed by Wilpert, J., ‘Sancta Maria Antiqua’, L'Arte 13 (1910), 1–20, 81–107, esp. 96–7Google Scholar; RMM, 702. For a summary of the subsequent literature regarding this issue see Vileisis, B., ‘The Genesis Cycle of Santa Maria Antiqua’ (Ph.D. dissertation, Princeton 1979), 141–4Google Scholar. The murals may be assigned to the mid-eighth century on stylistic grounds. Although no donor figure appears in the surviving decorations of the left aisle, it is known that a major redecoration of the church was undertaken in the time of Paul I, whose portrait was placed in the apse. The attribution is thus probable, but cannot be proven.
80 It is interesting to note that in the second quarter of the ninth century exotic animals of this sort begin to appear in the Liber Pontificalis notices of real textiles presented as papal gifts to various Roman churches, for example the ‘vestem de olovero cum chriphis et unicornibus’ given by pope Gregory IV (827–44) to the church of Marco, S. (Liber Pontificalis ii, 75Google Scholar).
81 See Osborne, J., ‘Early medieval painting in San Clemente, Rome: the Madonna and child in the niche’, Gesta 20 (1981), 299–310.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
82 For a reconstruction of the chapel see Tronzo, W., ‘Setting and structure in two Roman wall decorations of the early Middle Ages’, Dumbarton Oaks Papers 41 (1987), 477–9CrossRefGoogle Scholar
83 The painted curtain is not mentioned at all in other discussions of the early medieval murals at this site, cf. di S. Stanislao, P. Germano, La Casa Celimontana dei SS. Martiri Giovanni e Paolo (Rome, 1894), 417–40Google Scholar.
84 Liber Pontificalis i, 510Google Scholar.
85 For SS. Quirico e Giulitta see Giovannoni, G., ‘La chiesa dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta in Roma’, Atti del II Convegno Nazionale di Storia dell'Architettura (Rome, 1939), 229–38Google Scholar; Corbett, S., ‘The church of SS. Quirico e Giulitta in Rome’, Papers of the British School at Rome 28 (1960), 33–50CrossRefGoogle Scholar; and Bosi, M., SS. Quirico e Giulitta (Rome n.d. = Le Chiese di Roma Illustrate vol. 60)Google Scholar.
86 See plan in Corbett, fig. 2.
87 Corbett, pi. XIIIa. I have been unable to obtain access to the underground area of SS. Quirico e Giulitta, and thus have relied on this photograph for the description.
88 Giovannoni, 231, publishes without comment a watercolour copy of the murals in niche B, signed ‘S. Ferrelli’ and dated to the year 1930. This copy also suggests the presence of horizontal stripes across the top of the curtain, and of ‘rosettes’, formed by dots, set in the space above each section of drapery. To my knowledge there are no published photographs, perhaps because, as Corbett puts it (38 n. 22), ‘the apse is too restricted for photography’.
89 The principal bibliography includes Marucchi, O., ‘Scoperte nell'antica chiesa di S. Saba’ Nuovo Bullettino di Archeologia Cristiana 6 (1900), 175–6Google Scholar; Wilpert, J., ‘Le pitture dell'Oratorio di S. Silvia’, Mélanges d'Archéologie et d'Histoire 26 (1906), 15–26CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Styger, P., ‘Die Malereien in der Basilika des hl. Sabas auf dem kl. Aventin in Rom’, Römische Quartalschrift 28 (1914), 49–96Google Scholar; and Testini, P., San Saba (Rome, 1961)Google Scholar.
90 See for example Styger, 78–86, and Testini, 76–9.
91 More or less precisely this same design may be found on the west wall dado of chapel 38 at Bawît (Clédat ii, pl. XVI), although in the Egyptian example there is no suggestion of a curtain. Both monuments presumably reflect a popular textile design.
92 Wilpert, , RMM, 148–53Google Scholar. To his credit, Wilpert notes the difficulty involved in dating the painted curtain so early, but was convinced that the murals must relate to Gregory I's installation of a library in the Lateran palace.
93 It is possible that the velum discovered by Lauer beneath the chapel of the Sancta Sanctorum in the Lateran palace may be earlier, but there is no evidence to support the attribution of these paintings to the pontificate of Gregory I (590–604), as is often suggested (cf. catalogue 8).
94 Cf. Liber Pontificalis i, 385Google Scholar.
95 For a detailed description of the velum in each area see the catalogue la-lc.
96 Nordhagen, P. J., ‘The frescoes of John VII (A.D. 705–707) in S. Maria Antiqua in Rome’, Acta ad Archaeologiam et Artium Historiam Pertinentia 3 (1978), 16.Google Scholar
97 It is interesting to compare the very similar design at Bawît (chapels 30 and 38): cf. Clédat ii, pls II, XVI.
98 For example, two pieces in the textile museum at Lyons: see Martiniani-Reber, M., Lyon, Musée historique des tissus. Soieries sassanides, coptes et byzantines Ve-XIe siècles (Paris, 1986), 74 no. 49, 102–3 no. 86Google Scholar. The author suggests that the ‘spade’ motif may represent a stylized tree or palmette, but it seems more likely that it derives from the ivy-leaf designs popular in classical art.
99 Cf. Wilpert, RMM pls 142, 199.
100 Compare, for example, the vela of the so-called Temple of Romulus attached to the Roman church of SS. Cosma e Damiano (Wilpert, RMM pl. 264). Here the curtains are devoid of decorative patterns, apart from a series of nested V-shaped lines that represent the ultimate stylization of the earlier attempts to convey the impression of real drapery folds. Parallel examples can be found throughout Europe: for example, the painted curtains of the chapter house at Worcester cathedral in England.
101 The most recent study of the patronage is that of Belting, H., ‘Eine Privatkapelle im frühmittelalterlichen Rom’, Dumbarton Oaks Papers 41 (1987), 55–69CrossRefGoogle Scholar.
102 Is this, one wonders, what is meant by the design of ‘cruces de chrisoclabo cum orbiculis’ on two vela presented by pope Leo III to St Peter's? Cf. Liber Pontificalis ii, 13Google Scholar.
103 Cf. Liber Pontificalis i, 432Google Scholar
104 It is worth noting that in the Liber Pontificalis such animals begin to appear in accounts of real textiles in the ninth century, perhaps reflecting the increasing importance of imports from the Islamic world.
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