Hostname: page-component-586b7cd67f-vdxz6 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-29T20:42:09.534Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Becoming patriots in Russia: biopolitics, fashion, and nostalgia

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 November 2018

Ekaterina Kalinina*
Affiliation:
Media and Communication Studies, Södertörn University, Huddinge, Sweden

Abstract

The article seeks to explore the common ground between biopolitics, fashion, patriotism and nostalgia. Taking off from the Foucauldian notion of biopolitics as a control apparatus exerted over a population, I provide an insight into the modern construction of the Russian nation, where personal and collective sacrifice, traditional femininity and masculinity, orthodox religion, and the Great Patriotic War become the basis for patriotism. On carefully chosen case studies, I will show how the state directly and indirectly regulates people's lives by producing narratives, which are translated (in some cases designers act as mouthpieces for the state demographic or military politics) into fashionable discourses and, with a core of time, create specific gender norms – women are seen as fertile mothers giving birth to new soldiers, while men are shown as fighters and defenders of their nation. In the constructed discourses, conservative ideals become a ground for the creation of an idea of a nation as one biological body, where brothers and sisters are united together. In these fashionable narratives, people's bodies become a battlefield of domestic politics. Fashion produces a narrative of a healthy nation to ensure the healthy work- and military force.

Type
Special Section: Biopolitics and National Identities
Copyright
Copyright © 2017 Association for the Study of Nationalities 

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Atkins, Jacqueline, ed. 2005. Wearing Propaganda: Textiles on the Home Front in Japan, Britain, and the United States, 1931–1945. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.Google Scholar
Attfield, Judy. 2005. Wild Things: The Material Culture of Everyday Life. Oxford: Berg.Google Scholar
Atwal, Maya. 2009. “Evaluating Nashi's Sustainability: Autonomy, Agency, and Activism.” Europe-Asia Studies 61 (5): 743758.Google Scholar
Atwal, Maya, and Bacon, Edwin. 2012. “The Youth Movement Nashi: Contentious Politics, Civil Society, and Party Politics.” East European Politics 28 (3): 256266.Google Scholar
Bartlett, Djurdja. 2011. “Moscow on the Fashion Map: Between Periphery and Center.” Studies in East European Thought 63 (2): 111121.Google Scholar
Butler, Judith. 1990. Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity. New York: Routledge.Google Scholar
Cohen, Lizabeth. 2003. A Consumers’ Republic: The Politics of Mass Consumption in Postwar America. New York: Knopf.Google Scholar
Crane, Diana. 2000. Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. Chicago, IL: Chicago University Press.Google Scholar
Dean, Mitchell. 1999. Governmentality: Power and Rule in Modern Society. London: Sage.Google Scholar
Dmitrieva, Daria. 2015. “Going West or Going Back? Searching for New Male Identity.” Baltic Worlds 1–2: 5763.Google Scholar
Doane, Janice, and Hodges, Devon. 2013. Nostalgia and Sexual Difference: The Resistance to Contemporary Feminism. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
Ellul, Jacques. 1968. Propaganda: The Formation of Men's Attitudes. New York: Knopf. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/24823201.html.Google Scholar
Emel'ianenko, Vladimir. 2014. “Moda na Patriotism.” Russkii Mir. Accessed February 29, 2016. https://russkiymir.ru/publications/142172/.Google Scholar
Feldman, Eugenii. 2015. “Vse Idet po Planu”: Moskovskii Militari Glamour. Foto Istoria Eugeniia Feldmana. Novaia Gazeta, July 12. http://www.novayagazeta.ru/photos/69150.html.Google Scholar
Foucault, Michel. 1976. “Society Must Be Defended.” Lectures at the Collège de France, 1975–1976. Translated by David Macey. Edited by Bertani, Mauro and Fontana, Alessandro. London: Penguin Books.Google Scholar
Foucault, Michel. 1988. “Technologies of the Self. (A seminar with Michel Foucault at the University of Vermont, October 1982).” In Technologies of the Self. A Seminar with Michel Foucault, edited by Martin, L. H., Gutman, H., and Hutton, P. H., 1649. Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press.Google Scholar
Foucault, Michel. 1998. The History of Sexuality. Vol. 1: The Will to Knowledge. London: Penguin.Google Scholar
Globalizatsiia, Antiglobalisty, VTO.” 2010. “Press release. Levada Center.” June 27. Accessed February 29, 2016. http://www.levada.ru/old/27-07-2010/globalizatsiya-antiglobalisty-vto.Google Scholar
Goodrum, Alison L. 2005. The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness, Globalization. Oxford: Berg.Google Scholar
Gurova, Ol'ga. 2008. Sovetskoe Nizhnee Bel'e: Mezhdu Ideologiei i Povsednevnost'iu. Moskva: Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie.Google Scholar
Gusarova, Xeniya. 2008. “The Deviant Norm: Glamour in Russian Fashion.” Kultura, December 6. Accessed February 29, 2016.Google Scholar
Hemment, Julie. 2009. “Soviet-Style Neoliberalism? Nashi, Youth Voluntarism and the Restructuring of Social Welfare in Russia.” Problems of Post-Communism 56 (6): 3650.Google Scholar
Hemment, Julie. 2012. “Nashi, Youth Voluntarism, and Potemkin NGOs: Making Sense of Civil Society in Post-Soviet Russia.” Slavic Review 71 (2): 234260.Google Scholar
Kalinina, Ekaterina. 2013. “Venäjaän luovan luokan kuoppainen tie.” Idäntutkimus. The Finnish Review of East European Studies 3: 19–36. http://www.helsinki.fi/idantutkimus/arkisto/2013_3/it_3_2013_kalinina.pdf.Google Scholar
Klingseis, Katharina. 2011. “The Power Of Dress In Contemporary Russian Society: On Glamour Discourse and the Everyday Practice of Getting Dressed in Russian Cities.” Laboratorium 3 (1): 84–115. http://www.soclabo.org/index.php/laboratorium/article/view/237.Google Scholar
Kon, Igor. 2009. Muzchina v Menyayuschemsya Mire (Man in the Changing World). Moscow: Vremya.Google Scholar
Kondakov, Alexander. 2014. “The Silenced Citizens of Russia: Exclusion of Non-heterosexual Subjects from Right-based Citizenship.” Social & Legal Studies 23 (2): 151174.Google Scholar
Kondakov, Alexander. 2015. “Predopredelenie Moralnikh Granits Grazhdanstva v Rosii: Diksurs o Gomoseksual'nosti Posle Raspada SSSR.” (Configuration of Moral Frontiers of Citizenship in Russia: Discourse about Homosexuality after the Collapse of the USSR). XV Aprelskaya Mezhdunarodnaya Konferentsiya po Problemam Razvitiya Ekonomiki i Obschestva. Edited by Yasin, E. Moskva: Izdatelskiy Dom Vyshey Shkoly Ekonomiki. T. 3. 4351.Google Scholar
Kosterina, Irina. 2012. “‘Botaniki’ Protiv Jamesa Bonda: Nekotorye Trendi Sovremennoy Maskulinnosti (Nerds against James Bond: Some Trends of Contemporary Masculinity).” Neprikosnovenniy Zapas 3 (83). Accessed February 29, 2016. http://magazines.russ.ru/nz/2012/3/k5.html#_ftn9.Google Scholar
Makarov, Ivan. 2013. Interview with Ekaterina Kalinina. Moscow.Google Scholar
Makarychev, Andrey, and Medvedev, Sergey. 2015. “Biopolitics and Power in Putin's Russia.” Problems of Post-Communism 62 (1): 4554.Google Scholar
Makarychev, Andrey, and Yatsyk, Alexandra. 2015. “Refracting Europe: Biopolitical Conservatism and Art Protest in Putin's Russa.” In Russia's Foreign Policy: Ideas, Domestic Politics, and External Relations, edited by Cadier, David and Light, Margot, 138156. London: Palgrave Macmillan.Google Scholar
McGovern, Charles. 1998. “Consumption and Citizenship in the United States, 1900–1940.” In Getting and Spending: European and American Consumer Societies in the Twentieth Century, edited by Strasser, Susan, McGovern, Charles, and Judt, Matthias, 3758. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Menzel, Birgit. 2008. “Russian Discourse on Glamor.” Kultura, December 6, 48. Accessed February 29, 2016.Google Scholar
Mesropova, Ol'ga. 2008. “I Choose Russia – I Choose Glamor!” Kultura, December 6, 1214. Accessed February 29, 2016.Google Scholar
Mikhaylov, Konstantin. 2015. “Russkaya Pravoslavnaya Tserkov’ v Epokhu Gendernogo Bespokoystva.” Polit.ru. December 27. Accessed February 29, 2016. http://polit.ru/article/2015/12/27/gender/.Google Scholar
Ong, Aihwa. 2006. Neoliberalism as Exception: Mutations in Citizenship and Sovereignty. Durham: Duke University Press.Google Scholar
Pastoureau, Michel. 2001. The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric. New York: Columbia University Press.Google Scholar
Potupchik, Kristina. 2011. Shapovalova pereodela posetiteley Dendi kafe. Blog entry from September 26. http://krispotupchik.livejournal.com/266472.html?thread=73815016.Google Scholar
Pravitel'stvo RF. 2005. “Gosudarstvennaya programma ‘Patrioticheskoe vospitanie grazhdan RF na 2006–2010 gody’ Postanovlenie Pravitel'stva RF ot 11.07.2005, n8422.” Accessed December 15, 2014. http://www.pfo.ru/?id1/410142.Google Scholar
Pravitel'stvo RF. 2010. “Gosudarstvennaya programma ‘Patrioticheskoe vospitanie grazhdan RF na 2011–2015 gody’ utverzhdennaya postanovleniem Pravitel'stva RF ot 05.10.2010.” Accessed December 15, 2014. http://archives.ru/programs/patriot_2015.shtml.Google Scholar
Pravitel'stvo RF. 2015. “Gosudarstvennaya Programma ‘Patrioticheskoe Vospitanie Grazhdan Rossiyskoy Federatsii na 2016–2020 gody’ Postanovlenie Pravitel'stva RF ot 30.12.2015.” Accessed February 29, 2016. http://government.ru/media/files/8qqYUwwzHUxzVkH1jsKAErrx2dE4q0ws.pdf. Project available at http://gospatriotprogramma.ru/programma%202016-2020/proekt/proekt.php.Google Scholar
Putin Objavil Patriotism Natsionalnoy Ideeyei.” 2016. “Interfax. February 3.” Accessed February 29, 2016. http://www.interfax.ru/russia/493034.Google Scholar
Riabov, Oleg, and Riabova, Tatiana. 2006. “The Decline of Gayropa? How Russia Intends to Save the World.” Eurozine. Published February 5, 2014, in English. Translated by Irena Maryanik. Available at: www.eurozine.com/articles/2014-02-025-riabova-en.html. Accessed February 29, 2016.Google Scholar
Rudova, Larissa. 2008. “The Glamorous Heroines of Oksana Robski.” Kultura, December 6. 10–12. Accessed February 29, 2016.Google Scholar
Relations, Russia-West. 2015. “Press Release.” Levada Center. November 6. Accessed February 29, 2016. http://www.levada.ru/eng/russia-west-relations.Google Scholar
Shapovalova, Antonina. 2013. Interview with Ekaterina Kalinina. Moscow.Google Scholar
Simachev, Denis. 2012. Interview with Ekaterina Kalinina. Stockholm.Google Scholar
Sperling, Valerie. 2012. “Nashi Devushki: Gender and Political Youth Activism in Putin's and Medvedev's Russia.” Post-Soviet Affairs 28 (2): 232–261. http://dx.doi.org/10.2747/1060-586X.28.2.232.Google Scholar
Sperling, Valerie. 2014. Sex, Politics, and Putin: Political Legitimacy in Russia. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Sukovataya, Viktoria. 2012. “Ot ‘maskulinnosti travmy'– k ‘maskulinnosti nevroza': gendernaya politika v sovetskoy i postsovetskoy massovoy kul'ture.” Labirint: Zhurnal sotsial'no-gumanitarnykh 5: 3759.Google Scholar
Trenin, Dmitri. 2010. “Russia's Conservative Modernization: A Mission Impossible?SAIS Review of International Affairs 30 (1): 2737.Google Scholar
Tumanov, Grigorii, and Surnacheva, Elizaveta. 2014. “‘Nashi’ ‘Seti’ pritaschili…” Kommersant Vlast'. July 7. http://www.kommersant.ru/doc/2499143.Google Scholar
Lifestyle, Western. 2015. “Press Release. Levada Center.” October 16. Accessed February 29, 2016. http://www.levada.ru/eng/western-lifestyle.Google Scholar
Wilson, Eric. 2012. “The Czarinas are Back.” New York Times, June 29. http://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/01/fashion/the-russians-claim-the-fashion-spotlight.html?_r=0.Google Scholar
Zdravomyslova, Elena, and Temkina, Anna. 2002. “Krizis Maskulinnosti v Pozdnesovetskom Diskurse.” In O Muzhe(N)stvennosti: Sbornik Statei, edited by Oushakine, Sergy, 432451. Moskva: Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie.Google Scholar