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Early Nineteenth-Century British Travelers in Chile: Impressions of Santiago and Valparaíso*
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 02 January 2018
Extract
The first English travel literature dealing with the western countries of South America is that which describes the exploits of early British navigators such as Drake, Narbrough, Anson, and others.1 These accounts, however, are mostly limited to descriptions of the coastal areas, and very little is included about the inland country, the people, and their way of life. It was not until after the wars of independence had been fought and won that the Spanish monopolistic barriers were fully eliminated, and foreigners were permitted to travel freely in the newlyemancipated South American countries. This was particularly true of Chile and Peru, to which countless Englishmen were attracted and were able to record their first-hand, vivid impressions of what they had seen.
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- Copyright © University of Miami 1969
Footnotes
This study was made possible by a grant received from the Social Science Research Council, and one from the American Philosophical Society.
References
1 The story of Drake's adventures was first published in 1628 in a book entitled World Encompassed. This account has been lost, however, but it survives as a compilation written by his nephew fifty years after the voyage, chiefly out of the tales about the famous pirate captain as told by his chaplain Francis Fletcher, and other contemporaries. A modern edition of this later work is Drake, Francis, The World Encompassed, with introduction by Sir Richard Carnac Temple (London: The Argonaut Press, 1926)Google Scholar. See also Narbrough, John, An Account of Several Late Voyages and Discoveries (London: D. Brown, 1711)Google Scholar; Walter, Richard, Anson's Voyage Round the World. A new edition edited with Prefatory Notes by G. S. Laird Clowes (London: Martin Hopkinson, Ltd., 1928)Google Scholar; and Hawkesworth, John, An Account of the Voyages Undertaken by the Order of His Present Majesty, for Making Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere. 2 vols. (Dublin: James Williams, 1775)Google Scholar.
2 Haigh, Samuel, Sketches of Buenos Ayres, Chile and Peru (London: Effingham Wilson, Royal Exchange, 1831), p. v.Google Scholar
3 Miers, John, Travels in Chile and La Plata (London: Printed for Baldwin, Cradock, and Joy, 1826), I, 1.Google Scholar
4 Temple, Edmund, Travels in Various Parts of Peru, Including a Year's Residence in Potosí (London: Henry Colburn and Richard Bentley, 1830), I, 2Google Scholar.
5 Bonelli, Hugh L., Travels in Bolivia with a Tour Across the Pampas to Buenos Ayres (London: Hurst and Blackett, 1854), I, 2.Google Scholar
6 Schmidtmeyer, Peter, Travels in Chile (London: Printed by S. McDowall, and published by Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, Brown, Green, 1824), p. 1 Google Scholar.
7 Stevenson, William B., Historical and Descriptive Narrative of Twenty Years’ Residence in South America (London: Hurst, Robinson and Co., 1825), I, v.Google Scholar
8 For a detailed treatment of impressions of British travelers in Argentina during the same period, see Samuel Trifilo, S., La Argentina vista por viajeros ingleses: 1810-1860 (Buenos Aires: Ediciones Gure, 1957)Google Scholar, and “British Travel Accounts on Argentina before 1810,” Journal of Inter-American Studies, II, no. 3 (July, I960), 239-256.
9 Parish, Woodbine, Buenos Ayres, and Provinces of the Rio de la Plata, 2nd ed. (London: John Murray, 1852), p. 324 Google Scholar.
10 Haigh, pp. 38-39.
11 Brand, Charles, Journal of a Voyage to Peru (London: Henry Colburn, 1828), p. 58 Google Scholar.
12 Haigh, p. 78.
13 Darwin, Charles, Journal of Researches, new ed. (London: John Murray, 1890), p. 353 Google Scholar.
14 Haigh, p. 88.
15 Brand, p. 137.
16 Caldcleugh, Alexander, Travels in South America, During the Years 1819, 1820, 1821 (London: John Murray, 1825), II, 109Google Scholar.
17 Miers had been told in Buenos Aires that “the road was on the brink of a lofty precipice, so high that the thundering river which washed its base could scarcely be discerned by the eye … every traveler, in fact, was obliged to alight from his mule, and cling to the mountain side, lest he should miss his footstep, when he would be hurled down, and inevitably be dashed to pieces.” Miers, I, 293.
18 Haigh, p. 150; Schmidtmeyer, p. 213.
19 Miers, I, 306.
20 Caldcleugh, I, 112.
21 Darwin, p. 357.
22 Proctor, Robert, Narrative of a Journey Across the Cordillera of the Andes (London: Hurst, Robinson and Co., 1825), pp. 79–80 Google Scholar.
23 Head, Francis Bond, Rough Notes Taken During Some Rapid Journeys Across the Pampas and Among the Andes (London: John Murray, 1826), p. 91 Google Scholar.
24 Ibid.
25 Campbell Scarlett, P., South America and the Pacific (London: Henry Colburn, 1838), II, 6Google Scholar.
26 Gardiner, Allen F., Visit to the Indians on the Frontier of Chile (London: R. B. Seeley and W. Burnside, 1841), p. 67 Google Scholar.
27 Proctor, p. 86.
28 US Ibid.
29 Miers, n , 227.
30 Schmidtmeyer, p. 228.
31 Ibid.
32 Proctor, p. 86; p. 95.
33 Miers, I, 335.
34 Proctor, p. 88.
35 Ibid., p. 89.
36 Schmidtmeyer, p. 251.
37 Ibid., p. 252.
38 Suttcliffe, Thomas, Sixteen Years in Chile and Peru (London: Fisher, Son and Co., 1841), pp. 328–329 Google Scholar; Proctor, p. 91.
39 Darwin, p. 254. With regard to hospitality received, cf. Proctor, p. 89 on his observations some years earlier.
40 Ibid.
41 Caldcleugh.1,319.
42 Proctor, p. 96.
43 In the 1840's the hotel was under the management of a Mr. Campbell.
44 Proctor, p. 97.
45 Miers, I, 426.
46 ibid.
47 Haigh, P- 130.
48 Miers, I, 427. On the other hand, Captain Hall, a visitor to Santiago at about the same time, remarks on the cleanliness of the city, adding, “nothing can exceed the neatness of this most regular town.” Captain Basil Hall, Extracts from a Journal Written on the Coasts of Chile, Peru and Mexico in the Years 1820, 1821, and 1822, 3rd ed. (Edinburgh: A. Constable and Co., 1824), I, 31. Another found the streets of Santiago cleaner than those of Buenos Aires. Haigh, p. 136. Graham, Maria writes: “When I recall Rio Janeiro and Bahía, I am ready to call it [Santiago] absolutely clean.” Journal of a Residence in Chile During the Year 1822 (London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Green, 1824), p. 200 Google Scholar. In the 1840's Gardiner calls Santiago “one of the cleanest and best built cities in South America.” Gardiner, p. 75.
49 Proctor, p. 98.
5o Miers, I, 428.
51 Walpole, Fred, Four Years in the Pacific, 2nd ed. (London: Richard Bentley, 1850), I. 58Google Scholar.
52 Proctor, p. 98.
53 Stevenson, III, 170.
54 Haigh, p. 130.
55 Proctor, p. 99.
56 Miers, I, 434.
57 Caldcleugh, I, 361.
58 Scarlett, II, 58.
59 Walpole, I, 161.
60 Haigh, p. 254.
61 Graham, p. 200.
62 A raised platform on one side of the living room on which the family sat with their legs crossed “like Turks or tailors.” See Stevenson, III, 175.
63 Graham, p. 199.
64 Ibid. 65 Haigh, p. 140.
66 Hill, S. S., Travels in Peru and Mexico (London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Roberts, 1860), I, 30Google Scholar.
67 Ibid.
68 Miers, II, 238.
69 Ibid., 231; Hibbert, Edward, Narrative of a Journey from Santiago de Chile to Buenos Ayres in July and August 1821 (London: John Murray, 1824), p. 27 Google Scholar.
70 Walpole, I, 283.
71 Haigh, p. 147.
72 Graham, pp. 202-203.
73 Even dogs were afflicted with this disease, which was generally believed to have been caused by the drinking of snow water. Walpole, I, 291.
74 Miers, II, 235-236.
75 ibid.
76 Ibid.
77 Haigh, p. 147.
78 Miers, II, 236.
79 Hibbert, p. 27.
80 Miers, II, 237.
81 Ibid., p. 224. It should be noted that not every traveler agreed with this view. Haigh, who visited Santiago about the same time as Miers, writes: “It is untrue that this town is a demoralized place. Foreigners, after a residence of some time, usually select a partner for life from among el bello sexo, and, on no occasion, as far as I have heard of, has the husband had the least reason to repent of his choice.” Haigh, p. 212. Toward the middle of the same century, Walpole had substantially the same opinion as Haigh: “It is customary to accuse these people of immorality; from my own experience I should deny the justice of the imputation … generally, when the husband treated the wife well, he had nothing to complain of … The Englishmen who have married natives seem rarely to repent the step.’ Walpole, I, 288.
82 Byam, George, Wanderings in Some of the Western Republics of South America (London: John W. Parker, West Strand, 1850), p. 121 Google Scholar.
83 Schmidtmeyer, p. 307. See also Miers, II, 239, and Walpole, I, 223.
84 Schmidtmeyer, p. 238.
85 Ibid., p. 240.
86 Caldcleugh, I, 363-364.
87 Suttcliffe, p. 364
88 Hall, I, 153.
89 Haigh, p. 269.
90 Graham, p. 217.
91 Ibid.
92 Schmidtmeyer, p. 238.
93 Walpole, I, 167.
94 Graham, p. 202; See also Schmidtmeyer, p. 239, and Suttcliffe, p. 363.
95 Miers, II, 252.
96 Caldcleugh, I, 364.
97 Walpole, I, 283.
98 Miers, II, 253.
99 Ibid., p. 255.
100 Ibid. Undoubtedly, by “college” Miers meant colegio, the equivalent of a preparatory school.
101 Hill, I, 37.
102 Walpole, I, 164.
103 Haigh, p. 270.
104 ibid., p. 142.
105 Ibid., p. 145.
106 Miers, II, 223. On another occasion, Miers, who is generally very critical of the Chileans, writes: “The principal feature among their shopkeepers, who style themselves merchants, (comerciantes) is honesty and correctness in their dealings.” But he goes on to say that “however honest in their commercial dealings and payments, they are only so from necessity, and not from convictions… .” Miers, II, 243-244. It should be pointed out here that Miers returned to England in 1825 discouraged and disillusioned after six frustrating years in Chile and Argentina. A fellow-traveler, Captain Andrews, referred to Miers’ book as “hostile to people of Chile and to its mines.” Quoted by Cordero, Carlos J., Relatos de los viajeros extranjeros (Buenos Aires: Imprenta y Casa Editora “Coni,” 1936), p. 92 Google Scholar.
107 Head, pp. 165-166.
108 Hibbert, p. 13.
109 Haigh, p. 144.
110 Santiago was usually referred to as “El Pueblo.” Proctor reports that often it was called Chili. “I found that all through the country, the capital, Santiago, is denominated Chili.” Proctor, p. 95. He is the only traveler who makes this comment.
111 Proctor, p. 102.
112 Ibid.
113 Caldcleugh, II, 43.
114 Elwes, Robert, A Sketcher's Tour Round the World (London: Hurst and Blackett, 1854), p. 157 Google Scholar.
115 Proctor, pp. 101-102.
116 Miers, I, 363. Actually, this was excellent fare for Chile. A few years later, another Englishman was only lucky enough to get “meat boiled with vegetables, and served with the broth.” Proctor, p. 104.
117 Haigh, pp. 174-175.
118 Walpole, I, 78.
119 Darwin, , Journal of Researches (New York: Heritage Press, 1957), p. 228 Google Scholar.
120 Hill, I, 5.
121 Hall, I, 6. Stevenson was of the opinion that the Spaniards, instead of having exclaimed, “Valle de paraíso,” probably said, “Balde paraíso” (“Vain paradise” in Spanish). Stevenson, III, 159.
122 Proctor, p. 107.
123 Miers, I, 442.
124 Graham, p. 115.
125 After the victory of the Chileans at Chacabuco in 1817, almost two-thirds of the population of Valparaiso either abandoned the city or was forced on board Spanish ships and taken to Peru. See Stevenson, III, 162.
126 Stevenson, III, 160.
127 Hall, I, 19.
128 Stevenson, III, 161. See also, Mathison, G. F., Narrative of a Visit to Brazil, Chile, Peru and the Sandwich Islands (London: C. Knight, 1825), p. 176 Google Scholar; Hill, I, 7 Even in the early 1820's English could be heard on the principal streets, and signs announcing English tailors, shoemakers, saddlers, and inn-keepers were visible almost everywhere. British goods were in great demand, especially pianofortes. The number of these imported from England was astounding, and, according to one traveler, there was “scarcely a house without one.” Graham, p. 131. 12» Proctor, p. 109.
130 Ibid.
131 Ibid., p. 110. Miers remarks that murder was infrequent in Chile, but the greater portion of them took place in Valparaiso. Miers, II, 268. A later traveler found the town of Valparaiso “clean and kept in good order by the police who … patrol the streets night and day.” Elwes, p. 159.
132 Miers, I, 446.
133 Hall, I, 19.
134 Walpole, I. 142.
135 Graham, p. 138.
136 Ibid., p. 153.
137 Hall, I, 23.
138 Miers, I, 448.
139 Walpole, I, 107.
140 Hall, I, 11.
141 Graham, p. 169.
142 Duffy, James W., A Handbook to Valparaiso (Valparaíso: W. Helfmann's “Universo” Printing Office, 1862), p. 6 Google Scholar.
143 Elwes, p. 162.
144 Walpole, I, 100.
145 ibid.
146 Darwin, pp. 229-230. One traveler suggests that the name Valparaiso must have been an allusion to this valley. After having seen it, the Spaniards must have remarked, “Va al paraíso,” or, “This is the road to paradise.” Smith, II, 224.
147 Schmidtmeyer, p. 29.
148 Chicha was a term used for any type of fermented beverage. For example, there was chicha de manzana (cider), chicha de mutilla (berry wine), etc. The Indians made a chicha of ground corn mixed with water and allowed to ferment.
149 Walpole, I, 322. 150
150 ibid.
151 Schmidtmeyer, p. 293.
152 Miers, I, 413.
153 Mathison, p. 214.
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