Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-jkksz Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-27T13:55:22.752Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  28 March 2006

G. F. Carrier  and
H. P. Greenspan
G. F. Carrier
Affiliation:
Pierce Hall, Harvard University
H. P. Greenspan
Affiliation:
Pierce Hall, Harvard University
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

In this paper, we investigate the behaviour of a wave as it climbs a sloping beach. Explicit solutions of the equations of the non-linear inviscid shallow-water theory are obtained for several physically interesting wave-forms. In particular it is shown that waves can climb a sloping beach without breaking. Formulae for the motions of the instantaneous shoreline as well as the time histories of specific wave-forms are presented.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 4 , Issue 1 , May 1958 , pp. 97 - 109
Copyright
© Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Stoker, J. J. 1948 The formation of breakers and bores, Comm. Pure Appl. Math. 1, 1.
Watson, G. N. 1944 A Treatise on the Theory of Bessel Functions, 2nd Ed. Cambridge University Press.