Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-xbtfd Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-05T16:24:52.425Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Theory of the almost-highest wave. Part 2. Matching and analytic extension

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  12 April 2006

M. S. Longuet-Higgins
Affiliation:
Department of Applied Mathematics and Theoretical Physics, Silver Street, Cambridge and Institute of Oceanographic Sciences, Wormley, Surrey
M. J. H. Fox
Affiliation:
Department of Applied Mathematics and Theoretical Physics, Silver Street, Cambridge and Institute of Oceanographic Sciences, Wormley, Surrey Present address: CEGB Berkeley Nuclear Laboratories, Berkeley, Gloucestershire GL13 9PB.

Abstract

Most methods of calculating steep gravity waves (of less than the maximum height) encounter difficulties when the radius of curvature R at the crest becomes small compared with the wavelength L, or some other typical length scale. This paper describes a new method of calculation valid when R/L is small.

For deep-water waves, a parameter ε is defined as equal to q/2½c0, where q is the particle speed at the wave crest, in a frame of reference moving with the phase speed c. Hence ε is of order (R/L)½. Three zones are distinguished: (1) an inner zone of linear dimensions ε2L near the crest, where the flow is described by the inner solution found previously by Longuet-Higgins & Fox (1977); (2) an outer zone of dimensions O(L) where the flow is given by a perturbed form of Michell's solution for the highest wave; and (3) a matching zone of width O(L). The matching procedure involves complex powers of ε.

The resulting expression for the square of the phase velocity is found to be \[ c^2 = (g/k)\{1.1931-1.18\epsilon^3\cos(2.143\ln \epsilon + 2.22)\} \] (see figures 5a, b), which is in remarkable agreement with independent calculations based on high-order series. In particular, the existence of turning-points in the phase velocity as a function of wave height is confirmed.

Similar expressions, valid to order ε3, are found for the wave height, the potential and kinetic energies and the momentum flux or impulse of the wave.

The velocity field is extended analytically across the free surface, revealing the existence of branch-points of order ½, as predicted by Grant (1973).

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1978 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Cokelet, E. D. 1977 Steep gravity waves in water of arbitrary uniform depth. Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. A 286, 183230.Google Scholar
Grant, M. A. 1973 The singularity at the crest of a finite amplitude Stokes wave. J. Fluid Mech. 59, 257262.Google Scholar
Levi-Civita, T. 1924 Questioni di Meccanica Classica e Relativista, vol. II. Bologna: Zanichelli.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1975 Integral properties of periodic gravity waves of finite amplitude. Proc. Roy. Soc. A 342, 157174.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. & Fox, M. J. H. 1977 Theory of the almost-highest wave: the inner solution. J. Fluid Mech. 80, 721741.Google Scholar
Michell, J. H. 1893 The highest waves in water. Phil. Mag. 36, 430437.Google Scholar
Milne-Thompson, L. M. 1968 Theoretical Hydrodynamics, 5th edn, p. 413. Macmillan.
Sasaki, K. & Murakami, T. 1973 Irrotational, progressive surface gravity waves near the limiting height. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan 29, 94105.Google Scholar
Schwartz, L. W. 1974 Computer extension and analytic continuation of Stokes’ expansion for gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 62, 553578.Google Scholar
Stokes, G. G. 1880 On the theory of oscillatory waves. Appendix B: Considerations relative to the greatest height of oscillatory irrotational waves which can be propagated without change of form. Math. Phys. Papers 1, 225228.Google Scholar
Yamada, H. 1957 Highest waves of permanent type on the surface of deep water. Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech., Kyushu Univ. 5, 3752.Google Scholar