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Run-up of solitary waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2006

G. Pedersen  and
B. Gjevik
G. Pedersen
Affiliation:
Department of Mechanics, University of Oslo, P.O. Box 1053, Blindern, Oslo 3, Norway
B. Gjevik
Affiliation:
Department of Mechanics, University of Oslo, P.O. Box 1053, Blindern, Oslo 3, Norway
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Abstract

A numerical model based on a Lagrangian description has been developed for studying run-up of long water waves governed by a set of Boussinesq equations. The performance of the numerical scheme has been tested by comparing with analytical solutions and experimental data. Simulations of the run-up of solitary waves on relatively steep planes (inclination angle > 20°) show surface displacements and run-up heights in good agreement with experiments. For waves with relatively large amplitude the simulations reveal the development of a breaking bore during the backwash. Results for run-up heights in converging and diverging channels are also presented.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 135 , October 1983 , pp. 283 - 299
Copyright
© 1983 Cambridge University Press

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