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Oblique sub- and super-harmonic Bragg resonance of surface waves by bottom ripples

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  15 January 2010

MOHAMMAD-REZA ALAM ,
YUMING LIU  and
DICK K. P. YUE
MOHAMMAD-REZA ALAM
Affiliation:
Department of Mechanical Engineering, Center for Ocean Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
YUMING LIU
Affiliation:
Department of Mechanical Engineering, Center for Ocean Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
DICK K. P. YUE*
Affiliation:
Department of Mechanical Engineering, Center for Ocean Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
*
†Email address for correspondence: [email protected]
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Abstract

We consider a class of higher order (quartet) Bragg resonance involving two incident wave components and a bottom ripple component (so called class III Bragg resonance). In this case, unlike class I/II Bragg resonance involving a single incident wave and one/two bottom ripple components, the frequency of the resonant wave, which can be reflected or transmitted, is a sum or difference of the incident wave frequencies. In addition to transferring energy across the spectrum leading to potentially significant spectral transformation, such resonances may generate long (infragravity) waves of special importance to coastal processes and engineering applications. Of particular interest here is the case where the incident waves are oblique to the bottom undulations (or to each other) which leads to new and unexpected wave configurations. We elucidate the general conditions for such resonances, offering a simple geometric construction for obtaining these. Perturbation analysis results are obtained for these resonances predicting the evolutions of the resonant and incident wave amplitudes. We investigate special cases using numerical simulations (applying a high-order spectral method) and compare the results to perturbation theory: infragravity wave generation by co- and counter-propagating incident waves normal to bottom undulations; longshore long waves generated by (bottom) oblique incident waves; and propagating–standing resonant waves due to (bottom) parallel incident waves. Finally, we consider a case of multiple resonance due to oblique incident waves on bottom ripples which leads to complex wave creation and transformations not easily tractable with perturbation theory. These new wave resonance mechanisms can be of potential importance on continental shelves and in littoral zones, contributing to wave spectral evolution and bottom processes such as sandbar formation.

JFM classification

Waves/Free-surface Flows: Surface gravity waves
Type
Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 643 , 25 January 2010 , pp. 437 - 447
Copyright
Copyright © Cambridge University Press 2010

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