A note on long waves induced by short-wave groups over a shelf

Philip L.-F. Liu

doi:10.1017/S0022112089001989

Abstract

The generation of long waves due to the refraction of wave groups over a shelf is reexamined. The appropriate boundary conditions for calculating the second-order mean free-surface displacement are discussed. Numerical results for a plane shelf are presented, which are different from those given by Mei & Benmoussa (1984).

Crossref Citations

This article has been cited by the following publications. This list is generated based on data provided by Crossref.

Liu, Philip L.-F. Cho, Yong-Sik Kostense, Jan K. and Dingemans, Maarten W. 1992. Propagation and trapping of obliquely incident wave groups over a trench with currents. Applied Ocean Research, Vol. 14, Issue. 3, p. 201.

Madsen, Per A. and Sørensen, Ole R. 1992. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2. A slowly-varying bathymetry. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 18, Issue. 3-4, p. 183.

KIOKA, Wataru and ISHIHARA, Kenji 1993. SECOND-ORDER LONG WAVES INDUCED BY THE REFRACTION OF SHORT-WAVE GROUPS. Doboku Gakkai Ronbunshu, Vol. 1993, Issue. 467, p. 75.

Losada, Miguel A. Losada, Iñigo J. and Roldán, Antonio J. 1993. Propagation of oblique incident modulated waves past rigid, vertical thin barriers. Applied Ocean Research, Vol. 15, Issue. 5, p. 305.

Zhou, Chinpu and Jiang, Tian-Yao 1993. Head-sea low-frequency diffraction of wave groups by a slender body. Fluid Dynamics Research, Vol. 11, Issue. 1-2, p. 1.

Karunarathna, Harshinie and Tanimoto, Katsutoshi 1995. Numerical experiments on low-frequency fluctuations on a submerged coastal reef. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 26, Issue. 3-4, p. 271.

De Girolamo, Paolo 1996. An experiment on harbour resonance induced by incident regular waves and irregular short waves. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 27, Issue. 1-2, p. 47.

Henderson, Stephen M. and Bowen, A. J. 2002. Observations of surf beat forcing and dissipation. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Vol. 107, Issue. C11,

Janssen, T. T. Battjes, J. A. and van Dongeren, A. R. 2003. Long waves induced by short‐wave groups over a sloping bottom. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Vol. 108, Issue. C8,

Henderson, Stephen M. and Bowen, A. J. 2003. Simulations of Dissipative, Shore-Oblique Infragravity Waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 33, Issue. 8, p. 1722.

Battjes, J. A. Bakkenes, H. J. Janssen, T. T. and van Dongeren, A. R. 2004. Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Vol. 109, Issue. C2,

Sánchez‐Badorrey, E. and Losada, M. A. 2006. Standing regular wave groups with oblique incidence: Phase averaging and bottom boundary layer in constant depth. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Vol. 111, Issue. C9,

Baldock, T.E 2006. Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach. Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, Vol. 462, Issue. 2070, p. 1853.

KLOPMAN, GERT VAN GROESEN, BRENNY and DINGEMANS, MAARTEN W. 2010. A variational approach to Boussinesq modelling of fully nonlinear water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 657, Issue. , p. 36.

Gao, Zhiyi and Wen, Fan 2010. Theoretical and experimental investigation on nonlinear interaction among wave groups. Chinese Journal of Oceanology and Limnology, Vol. 28, Issue. 6, p. 1290.

Zou, Qingping 2011. Generation, Transformation, and Scattering of Long Waves Induced by a Short-Wave Group over Finite Topography. Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 41, Issue. 10, p. 1842.

Dong, Sheng Wang, Nannan Lu, Hongmin and Tang, Liujuan 2015. Bivariate distributions of group height and length for ocean waves using Copula methods. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 96, Issue. , p. 49.

Paniagua-Arroyave, Juan F. Adams, Peter N. Parra, Sabrina M. and Valle-Levinson, Arnoldo 2019. Observations of surface-gravity-wave scattering and dissipation by an isolated shoal related to a cuspate foreland. Continental Shelf Research, Vol. 173, Issue. , p. 43.

Li, Shaowu Liao, Zhiling Liu, Ye and Zou, Qingping 2020. Evolution of Infragravity Waves Over a Shoal Under Nonbreaking Conditions. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Vol. 125, Issue. 8,

de Souza e Silva, Mario Grüne Kerpen, Nils B. Rosman, Paulo Cesar C. Neves, Claudio F. and Schlurmann, Torsten 2022. Directional Infragravity Waves Induced by Bichromatic and Bidirectional Waves: Theoretical Approach and Experimental Affirmation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 148, Issue. 5,

Download full list

Article contents

A note on long waves induced by short-wave groups over a shelf

Abstract

Access options

References

This article has been cited by the following publications. This list is generated based on data provided by Crossref.

Article contents

A note on long waves induced by short-wave groups over a shelf

Abstract

Access options

References

Save article to Kindle

Save article to Dropbox

Save article to Google Drive

Reply to: Submit a response

Your details

You have entered the maximum number of contributors

Conflicting interests