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Generation of surf beat by non-linear wave interactions

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 March 2006

Brent Gallagher
Brent Gallagher
Affiliation:
Department of Oceanography, University of Hawaii, Honolulu, Hawaii 96822
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Abstract

Non-linear interactions among wind-generated gravity waves transfer energy to low frequency waves in a coastal zone. A transfer function is derived for a straight coastline of constant bottom slope. This model is applied to three actual cases, and numerical evaluation of the energy transfer produces low frequency spectra which are compared with observations.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 49 , Issue 1 , 13 September 1971 , pp. 1 - 20
Copyright
© 1971 Cambridge University Press

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