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Asymptotic theory for the almost-highest solitary wave

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 April 2006

M. S. Longuet-Higgins  and
M. J. H. Fox
M. S. Longuet-Higgins
Affiliation:
Institute for Nonlinear Science, University of California, San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92093-0402, USA
M. J. H. Fox
Affiliation:
Nuclear Electric plc, Barnett Way, Barnwood, Gloucester GL4 7RS, UK
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Abstract

The behaviour of the energy in a steep solitary wave as a function of the wave height has a direct bearing on the breaking of solitary waves on a gently shoaling beach. Here it is shown that the speed, energy and momentum of a steep solitary wave in water of finite depth all behave in an oscillatory manner as functions of the wave height and as the limiting height is approached. Asymptotic formulae for these and other wave parameters are derived by means of a theory for the ‘almost-highest wave’ similar to that formulated previously for periodic waves in deep water (Longuet-Higgins & Fox 1977, 1978). It is demonstrated that the theory fits very precisely some recent calculations of solitary waves by Tanaka (1995).

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 317 , 25 June 1996 , pp. 1 - 19
Copyright
© 1996 Cambridge University Press

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