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A new model of shoaling and breaking waves: one-dimensional solitary wave on a mild sloping beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  15 January 2019

M. Kazakova  and
G. L. Richard
M. Kazakova
Affiliation:
Institut de Mathématiques de Toulouse; UMR5219, Université de Toulouse; CNRS, UPS, F-31062 Toulouse CEDEX 9, France
G. L. Richard*
Affiliation:
LAMA, UMR5127, Université de Savoie Mont-Blanc, CNRS, 73376 Le Bourget-du-Lac, France
*
†Email address for correspondence: [email protected]
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Abstract

We present a new approach to model coastal waves in the shoaling and surf zones. The model can be described as a depth-averaged large-eddy simulation model with a cutoff in the inertial subrange. The large-scale turbulence is explicitly resolved through an extra variable called enstrophy while the small-scale turbulence is modelled with a turbulent-viscosity hypothesis. The equations are derived by averaging the mass, momentum and kinetic energy equations assuming a shallow-water flow, a negligible bottom shear stress and a weakly turbulent flow assumption which is not restrictive in practice. The model is fully nonlinear and has the same dispersive properties as the Green–Naghdi equations. It is validated by numerical tests and by comparison with experimental results of the literature on the propagation of a one-dimensional solitary wave over a mild sloping beach. The wave breaking is characterized by a sudden increase of the enstrophy which allows us to propose a breaking criterion based on the new concept of virtual enstrophy. The model features three empirical parameters. The first one governs the turbulent dissipation and was found to be a constant. The eddy viscosity is determined by a turbulent Reynolds number depending only on the bottom slope. The third parameter defines the breaking criterion and depends only on the wave initial nonlinearity. These dependences give a predictive character to the model which is suitable for further developments.

JFM classification

Geophysical and Geological Flows: Coastal engineering Geophysical and Geological Flows: Shallow water flows Waves/Free-surface Flows: Wave breaking
Type
JFM Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 862 , 10 March 2019 , pp. 552 - 591
Copyright
© 2019 Cambridge University Press 

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