Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-s2hrs Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-20T01:01:46.446Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Boundary-layer velocities and mass transport in short-crested waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  19 April 2006

J. R. C. Hsu ,
R. Silvester  and
Y. Tsuchiya
J. R. C. Hsu
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, The University of Western Australia, Nedlands, Western Australia
R. Silvester
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, The University of Western Australia, Nedlands, Western Australia
Y. Tsuchiya
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, The University of Western Australia, Nedlands, Western Australia Permanent address: Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, Japan.
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

A comprehensive programme of research is being undertaken on short-crested waves produced by obliquely reflecting waves from a rigid vertical wall. This has included a new wave theory to third-order approximation. The second-order Eulerian water-particle velocities throughout the bottom boundary layer are now investigated. From this the resulting mass transport is considered to the first approximation. The vertical velocity component has a non-zero value within and just beyond the boundary layer. The limiting two-dimensional cases of progressive and standing waves are obtained and compared with published results. Comparison is also made with available experimental data. Graphs of some analytical solutions are presented.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 99 , Issue 2 , 25 July 1980 , pp. 321 - 342
Copyright
© 1980 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Carter, T. G., Liu, P. L.-F. & Mei, C. C. 1973 Mass transport by waves and offshore sand bedforms. J. Waterways, Harbours & Coastal Engng Div., A.S.C.E. 99 (WW2), 165–184.Google Scholar
Dore, B. D. 1973 On steady particle motion in circular gravity waves. Acta Mech. 17, 227–245.Google Scholar
Dore, B. D. 1974 The mass transport velocity due to interacting wave trains. Meccanica, 9, 172–178.Google Scholar
Dore, B. D. 1976 Double boundary layers in standing surface waves. Pure & Appl. Geophys. 114, 629–637.Google Scholar
Hsu, J. R. C. 1977 Kinematics of short-crested water waves. Proc. 6th Austral. Conf. Hydraul. Fluid Mech., Adelaide, pp. 56–59.
Hsu, J. R. C., Tsuchiya, Y. & Silvester, R. 1979 Third-order approximation to short-crested waves. J. Fluid Mech. 90, 179–196.Google Scholar
Hunt, J. N. & Johns, B. 1963 Currents induced by tides and gravity waves. Tellus, 15, 343–351.Google Scholar
Isaacson, M. DE St Q. 1976 The second approximation to mass transport in conoidal waves. J. Fluid Mech. 78, 445–457.Google Scholar
Iwagaki, Y. & Tsuchiya, Y. 1966 Laminar damping of oscillatory waves due to bottom friction. Proc. 10th Conf. on Coastal Engng, vol. II, pp. 149–174.
Liu, A.-K. & Davis, S. H. 1977 Viscous attenuation of mean drift in water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 81, 63–84.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1953 Mass transport in water waves. Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. A, 245, 535–581.Google Scholar
Mei, C. C., Liu, P. L.-F. & Carter, T. G. 1972 Mass transport in water waves. M.I.T., Ralph M. Parsons Lab. Rep. 146.Google Scholar
Noda, H. 1968 A study on mass transport in boundary layers in standing waves. Proc. 11th Conf. on Coastal Engng, London, pp. 227–247.
Noda, H. 1970 The basic study on coastal littoral drift. Ph.D. thesis, Kyoto University, Japan. (In Japanese.)
Prandtl, L. 1904 Proc. 3rd Intl Math. Cong., Heidelberg, pp. 484–491. (In German.) Also available in English (Motion of fluids with very little viscosity. Tech. Memor. Nat. Adv. Comm. Aero., Washington, no. 452, 1928.)
Schlichting, H. 1968 Boundary-layer theory, 6th edn (translated from German by J. Kestin), pp. 411–414. McGraw-Hill.
Silvester, R. 1972 Wave reflection at seawalls and breakwaters. Proc. Inst. Civil Eng., vol. 54, pp. 123–131.
Silvester, R. 1977 The role of wave reflection in coastal processes. Proc. Coastal Sediment 77, A.S.C.E., pp. 639–654.
Stuart, J. T. 1963 Laminar Boundary-Layers (ed. L. Rosenhead), chap. 7, pp. 382–384. Oxford University Press.
Tanaka, N., Irie, I. & Ozasa, H. 1972 A study on the velocity distribution of mass transport caused by diagonal partial standing waves. Rep. Port & Harbour Res. Inst., Japan, 11, 112–140. (In Japanese.)Google Scholar