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Storm Waves and Shore-forms of South-Western Scotland
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 01 May 2009
Extract
The effect of waves on a shore depends largely on the angle of approach, for the energy of the advancing waves tends to erode the headlands and drift the products of erosion into the bays. Wave refraction applies to waves approaching the shore in any direction, but is only ideally developed in ordinary weather conditions or by approaching waves caused by distant storms. Locally developed storm waves usually approach the shore at an oblique angle to its general trend, owing to the failure of wave refraction and are the most effective where locally they meet the shore at right angles. Beach drifting will be in operation along the section of the shore which happens to be at an angle oblique to the direction of the approaching waves.
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- Copyright © Cambridge University Press 1937
References
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