This article draws on participant observation and casematerial on significant situations and individuals, who live in a small neighbourhood of central Naples. I shall call this neighbourhood ‘the quartiere’, after local custom. The issues discussed here can reasonably be said to have wider significance, because the old centre is basically sociologically homogeneous. This large part of the city is not, however, socially undifferentiated, as many observers seem to have assumed. In agreement with this pattern, both bourgeois and, in large majority, popolino live in the quartiere, often residing in the same building. Given the graduality of socio-economic positions among local people, I have deliberately decided to use very general terms, such as ‘popolino’ and ‘bourgeois’, in describing my informants.