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(8) Meyerson, R., Katz, E., op. cit. p. 594Google Scholar

(9) For an analysis of social differentiation based on generation, see Eisenstadt, S. N., From Generation to Generation (New York 1955)Google Scholar. The term “generation society” was applied to problems of British society among others by B. Wilson. See Wilson, B., War of the Generations, The Daily Telegraph, 24 August, 25 08, 1964Google Scholar.

(10) Smelser, N., op. cit. p. 8Google Scholar.

(11) G. Stone, op. cit.

(12) For the discussion about fashion and social control, see Simmel, G., op. cit. pp. 541–558Google Scholar; Spencer, H., Principle of Sociology (New York 1897), vol. IV, pp. 205–210Google Scholar; ID.Essays (London 1883), pp. 61–65; Carlyle, T., Sartor Resartus (Boston 1897), pp. 30–37Google Scholar; Duncan, H. P., Communication and Social Order (Totowa 1962), pp. 190–200Google Scholar; Nystrom, P., Economics of Fashion (New York 1928)Google Scholar; Richardson, J., Krofber, A. L., Three Centuries of Women of (Fashion, Anthropological Record, V (1940), 111–153Google Scholar; Kroeber, A. L., On the Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in Fashion, American Anthropologist, VI (1919), pp. 235–263CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Tumin, M., A Note on Cultural Style, The American Journal of Sociology, XLVI (1941), 569–571Google Scholar; Koplin, J. N., Schiffer, N. J., The Limit of Fashion Control, The American Sociological Review, XIII (1948), pp. 730–738Google Scholar; Ginsberg, M., Sociology (Oxford 1937), p. 158Google Scholar.

(13) E.g. Landis, , op. cit. p. 305, 309–310Google Scholar; Summer, , op. cit. pp. 184–185, 194–195Google Scholar; Konig, op. cit.; Sapir, , op. cit. p. 141Google Scholar.

(14) E.g. Nystrom, , op. cit. pp. 123–124Google Scholar, 132–141; Ginsberg, , op. cit. p. 152Google Scholar.

(15) See Nystrom, , op. cit. p. 124Google Scholar.

(16) Sapir, , op. cit. p. 140Google Scholar.

(17) Simmel, , op. cit. p. 543Google Scholar.

(18) Kornhauser, W., The Politics of Mass Society (Berkeley 1959), p. 28Google Scholar.

(19) The concepts of “élite fashion” and “élite fashion behaviour” are derived from the literature about haute couture and from intensive interviews with designers and fashion editors. — See Bertin, C., Paris à la mode (London 1956)Google Scholar; Chr. Dior, , Dior by Dior (London 1957)Google Scholar; Devenport, M., The Book of Costume (New York 1949)Google Scholar; Beaton, C., Glass of Fashion (London 1952)Google Scholar; A Letter of a Girl on the Future of Clothes (London 1946)Google Scholar; Fashion and Class Distinction (London 1950)Google Scholar; The Past and Future of Clothes (London 1958)Google Scholar; Styles and Costume (London 1948)Google Scholar; Dress — Horn and Why Fashion in Men's and Women's Clothes have changed during the past soo years (London 1958)Google Scholar; Burrow, J., The History of the House of Worth (London 1928)Google Scholar; Latour, A., Kings of Fashion (London 1957)Google Scholar; T. Veblen, op. cit.; Schneider, P. E., What Makes Paris Fashion's Capital, York Times Magazine, 27 07 1958, pp. 18–19, 43, 45Google Scholar; Contini, M., Fashion (London 1965), pp. 261–298Google Scholar; Adburgham, A., View of Fashion (London 1966)Google Scholar; Robinson, D. E., A Note on Fashion Leadership, Business History Review, XXXVII (1961) p. 451Google Scholar; Brenninkmeyer, I., op. cit. pp. 133–142Google Scholar; Nystrom, P., op. cit. especially pp. 189–302Google Scholar.

(20) The concepts of “mass fashion” and “mass fashion behaviour” are derived from the literature concerning the development of mass production in the clothing industry in Britain after the Second World War, and from literature on recent trends in British society and from interviews with fashion editors and the survey of consumers' attitudes towards fashion carried out especially for this study. The relevant publications include: Heaton, H., Economic History of Europe (New York 1948)Google Scholar; J. M. Keynes, op. cit.; Wray, M., The Women's Outwear Industry (London 1957)Google Scholar; D. E. Robinson, op. cit.; P. Nystrom, op. cit.; Contini, M., op. cit. pp. 299–311Google Scholar; Brenninkmeyer, I., op. cit. pp. 143–154Google Scholar; Halliday, L., The Fashion Makers (London 1966)Google Scholar; Chillingworth, J., Busby, H., Fashion (London 1961)Google Scholar; M. Quant, op. cit.—The evaluation of marketing of mass produced fashionable cloths is also illustrated in the experience of Marks and Spencer Chain Store.—See Adburgham, A., The Sparks Behind Marks, Harper's Bazaar, 05 1965Google Scholar; Marks, S., How Contact is Kept with Consumer, The Times, 30 05 1961Google Scholar; G. Rees, Sir Simon Marks—Artist of the Bazaars, Penny, The Sunday Times, 7 02 1960Google Scholar; Black, S., The New Archangel of Baker Street, Vogue, 02 1965Google Scholar.

(21) See especially: M. Wray, op. cit.; M. Quant, op. cit.; P. Nystrom, op. cit.

(22) See Rostow, W. W., The Stages of Economic Growth (Cambridge 1963)Google Scholar.

(23) I. Brenninkmeyer, op. cit.; M. Quant op. cit.; A. Adburgham, op. cit.

* This research was carried out at Leicester University.