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Arguably the best account of the early decades of national industrialization in the United States remains Albion, Robert Greenhalgh, The Rise of New York Port, 1815–1860, with the collaboration of Pope, Jennie Barnes, (New York, 1939).Google Scholar See also Taylor, George Rogers, The Transportation Revolution, 1815–1860 (New York, 1951)Google Scholar; North, Douglass C., The Economic Growth of the United States, 1790–1860 (New York, 1966)Google Scholar; Meinig, D. W., The Shaping of America: Continental America, 1800–1867 (New Haven, Conn., 1993).Google Scholar

⁴ All figures are taken from United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860; compiled from the original returns of the eighth census (Washington, D.C., 1865).Google Scholar

⁵ United States, Manufactures of the United States in 1860: Compiled from the Original Returns of the Eighth Census (Washington, D.C., 1865), lxxxv–lxxxixGoogle Scholar; Fine, Ben and Leopold, Ellen, The World of Consumption (London, 1993), 93–106.Google Scholar

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⁹ Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers 4:11 (June 1873): 124, 126, 130–3.

¹⁰ Clothing's role in the American ideology of industrial progress is expressed in the prominence accorded it in the long introduction to the manufactures schedule of the eighth census, written after the war in 1865.

¹¹ These categories were machinery, hardware and cutlery, cannon and small arms, precious metals, various metals, granite and marble, bricks and lime, wool, cotton, silk, flax, mixed textile manufactures, tobacco, hats and caps, leather and tanneries, soap and candles, distilled and fermented liquors, powder mills, drugs, medicines, paints and dyes, glass and earthenware, sugar refining, paper, printing and binding, cordage, musical instruments, carriages and wagons, grist, flour, oil and saw mills, ships, furniture, and houses. Wright, Carroll D., History and Growth of the United States Census (Washington, D.C., 1900), 309–12Google Scholar; Hamilton, Alexander, Report of the Secretary of the Treasury of the United States, on the subject of Manufactures(Dublin, 1792)Google Scholar; Cohen, Patricia Cline, A Calculating People: The Spread of Numeracy in Early America (Chicago, 1982), 175–204.Google Scholar

¹² This definition of manufacturing is taken from Webster, Noah, An American Dictionary of the English Language (New York, 1845)Google Scholar, and is reflective of Locke's accepted notions of property and labor. See Locke, John, The Second Treatise of Government (Indianapolis, 1952), 16–8.Google Scholar For a general discussion see Tribe, Keith, Land, Labour and Economic Discourse (London, 1978).Google Scholar Edwin Freedley, a prolific copywriter on behalf of industrial progress, noted in the late 1850s, however, that the meaning of “manufacture” had become “an extremely flexible one.” Freedley, , Philadelphia and Its Manufactures (Philadelphia, 1858), 21.Google Scholar

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¹⁸ New-York Post, Jan. 2, Jan. 5, Jan. 10, Apr. 24, Aug. 16, 1822.

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²⁸ New-York Post, 16 Aug. 1822; 24 Apr. 1822; and 5 Jan. 1822; Westerfield, “Early History of American Auctions,” 182–3, 184, 196–8; Elias, Alexander T. Stewart, 21; Cohen, “The Auction System,” 495, 499; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 276; Wright, Wool-Growing and the Tariff, 49. For details on fabrics see Ordonez, Margaret Thompson, “A Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon County, Florida: 1824–1861” (Ph.D. diss., Florida State University, 1978), 268–276Google Scholar; and Montgomery, Florence M., Textiles in America, 1650–1870 (New York, 1984), 192–3, 287–9, 238–9, 298, 325.Google Scholar

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³¹ For Burks separate advertisement to provincial dealers see New-York Post, 24 Apr. 1822.

³² Louisville Public Advertiser, 5 Feb. 1823; Louisville Gazette, 20 Dec. 1825; Jones, S., Pittsburgh in the Year Eighteen Hundred and Twenty Six (Pittsburgh, 1826)Google Scholar; St. Louis Beacon, 13 Apr. 1829; Nashville Republican & State Gazette, 11 Mar. 1828; 31 Oct. 1828.

³³ The quote is from New Orleans Directory and Register, 1822. On clothing in New Orleans see New Orleans Annual Advertiser, 1832; Taylor, George Rogers, The Transportation Revolution 1815–1860 (New York, 1951), 9, 107, 164Google Scholar; Myers, Margaret, The New York Money Market, vol. 1 (New York, 1931), 43–4Google Scholar; Albion, The Rise of New York Port, 95–6, 118–9. For a good description of the continental credit system and the New York-New Orleans axis see United States Magazine and Democratic Review 2:6 (May, 1838); 116–8; Greef, Albert O., The Commercial Paper House in the United States (Cambridge, Mass., 1938), 15–7Google Scholar; Feldman, Egal, “New York's Men's Clothing Trade” (Ph.D. diss., University of Pennsylvania, 1959), 76–8.Google Scholar

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³⁷ James M. Edney, New York, N.Y., 1835–7. Letter book to F. H. Cooke of Augusta. (Rutgers University Special Collections), 3 Feb. 1836; 21 Oct. 1835; Augusta Chronicle, 1 Nov. 1823.

³⁸ Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837. Edney to Cooke, 11 Nov. 1837; 31 Oct. 1835; Jones, Memorial History of Augusta, 172.

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⁴⁰ “Negro cloth” was an inexpensive fabric, akin to kerseys and satinets.

⁴¹ Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 26 Jan. 1837; 27 Jan. 1837; 27 Mar. 1837; 23 Oct. 1837; Edney to Cooke, 21 Nov. 1835. On the growth of the provincial market in these years see Diane Lindstrom, Economic Development, 12–7.

⁴² Meinig, The Shaping of America, 232, 351; Jones, John B. (Luke Shortfleld), The Western Merchant (Philadelphia, 1849), 80.Google Scholar

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⁴⁵ This is to be distinguished from “Negro” clothing, which could include “suits” of “blue jackets and trowsers, well lined.” The Georgian, 27 Nov. 1823. Baumgarten, Linda, Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg (Williamsburg, Va., 1986), 204Google Scholar; DuPont, Ann, “Textile and Apparel Management Functions Performed by Women in the Nineteenth Century Plantation South,” Ars Textrina 18 (Dec. 1992): 55–6Google Scholar; Jensen, Joan M., “Needlework as Art, Craft, and Livelihood before 1900,” in A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America, eds. Jensen, and Davidson, Sue (Philadelphia, 1984), 9Google Scholar; Ordonez, “A Frontier Reflected in Costume,” 180–3; New York Herald, 3 Sept. 1836.

⁴⁶ Stachine, Myron O., “‘For the Sake of Commerce’: Rhode Island, Slavery, and the Textile Industry,” an essay accompanying the exhibit The Loom & the Lash (Museum of Rhode Island History, 1982)Google Scholar; Lippincott, Isaac, “A History of Manufactures of Ohio Valley, to 1860” (Ph.D. diss., University of Chicago, 1912), 169–70.Google Scholar On Army production, see National Archives, RG92, Correspondence File, 1794–1915, entry no. 225.

⁴⁷ Edney to Cooke, 28 June 1835; 25 July 1835; 19 Mar. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836; 30 Apr. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836. See also 31 Mar. 1837; 26 Sept. 1837.

⁴⁸ Ware, The Early blew England Cotton Manufacture, 31; Edney to Cooke, 3 Oct. 1835; 10 Oct. 1835; 25 Oct. 1835; 26 Dec. 1835; 27 Jan. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836; 19 Mar. 1836; Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel, 27 Mar. 1837; 16 Feb. 1837.

⁴⁹ Siegenthaler, Hansjorg, “What Price Style? The Fabric-Advistory Function of the Dry-goods Commission Merchant, 1850–1880,” Business History Review 41 (Spring 1967), 38.CrossRefGoogle Scholar “Capitalist realism” is borrowed from Michael Schudson; see Appadurai, Argun, “Introduction,” in The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective (Cambridge, U.K., 1986).CrossRefGoogle Scholar There were ample numbers who did not participate in the clothing revolution. In Schoharie County, New York, for instance, Henry Conklin later remembered how he and his brothers wore clothing made of the coarsest tow and stayed in bed while their mother did the wash since they had only one set of garments. Conklin, Henry, Through ‘Poverty's Vale’: A Hardscrabble Boyhood in Upstate New York, 1832–1862 (Syracuse, N.Y., 1974), xiii.Google Scholar In Milledgeville, Georgia James Moran got married in a homespun jacket in 1825. Bonner, James C., Milledgeville: Georgia's Antebellum Capital (Athens, Ga., 1978), 68.Google Scholar Of related interest is a description of a jury of 24 men, all heads of households, in Tallahassee from these years: “What a motley assemblage! From the huntsman in his leather shirt and breeches … the squatter in his straw hat, and dressed in coarse domestic stuffs made up by his wife; the little merchant, showing off in all the elegant exaggerated graces of the counter …” Quoted in Ordonez, “Frontier in Costume,” 147.

⁵⁰ Edney to Cooke, 22 June 1835; 30 Apr. 1836; 21 Mar. 1836; 29 Aug. 1836; 17 Sept. 1836; 26 Mar. 1836.

⁵¹ Cost estimations based on Trautman, Patricia Anne, “Captain Edward Marrett, a Gentleman Tailor” (Ph.D. diss., University of Colorado, 1982)Google Scholar; John Shepherd of New York, N.Y. Merchant Tailoring Accounts. Ac. 861 and 1721 (Ruters University Special Collections); James M. Edney, New York, N.Y., 1835–7, Letter Book to F. H. Cooke of Augusta (Rutgers University Special Collections), 13 Feb. 1836; United States, Seventh Census (1850), Manufactures Schedule, raw data, New York County, N.Y. On fluctuation in cloth prices, see National Archives, RG 92, entry no. 2118, 1830–3: special items, check lists, and indices.

⁵² Edney to Cooke, 11 Aug. 1837; 19 Sept. 1837; 21 Oct. 1837; see also 31 Oct. 1835; 9 Jan. 1836; 27 Feb. 1836; 29 Feb. 1836; 2 Apr. 1836, 23 Apr. 1836; 19 Aug. 1836; 21 Jan. 1837; 1 Mar. 1837; 14 Nov. 1837; 12 Dec. 1837; 24 Nov. 1837; Cole, The American Wool Manufacture, 289–91; Porter and Livesay, Merchants and Manufacturers, 27; Classified Mercantile Directory, 1837; See also Atherton, Lewis E., “The Problem of Credit Rating in the Ante-Bellum South,” Journal of Southern History 12 (1946): 536–7, 550Google Scholar; Augusta Directory, 1841; On the personal dynamic of credit arrangements in these years see Greene, Asa, Perils of Pearl Street, including a Taste of the Dangers of Wall Street (New York, 1845), 116–24.Google Scholar

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⁶¹ Edney to Cooke, 13 Feb. 1836; 31 Dec. 1836; 6 Jan. 1838; 11 Jan. 1838.

⁶² Rosenbloom, Richard S., “A Conjecture about Fashion and Vertical Process Integration,” Business History Review 37 (Spring/Summer 1963): 94–5.CrossRefGoogle Scholar Edney to Cooke, 1 Mar. 1837; 7 Oct. 1836. On F.J. Conant's buying strategy see Feldman, “New York's Men's Clothing Trade,” 25. New York Herald, 18 Feb. 1836; 7 July 1836; Morning Courier and New-York Enquirer, 24 May 1836.

⁶³ Working Man's Advocate, 10 June 1831. Philadelphia Public Ledger, 21 Sept. 1837.

⁶⁴ Edney to Cooke, 22 Apr. 1837. Dewey, Davis Rich, Financial History of the United States (New York, 1907), 225.Google Scholar Atherton, Southern Country Store, 21–2. On these strategems see Greene, Perils of Pearl Street. On the easiness of New York credit for commercial neophytes from the South see Baldwin, Joseph G., The Flush Times of Alabama and Mississippi (New York, 1957).Google Scholar

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