Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-m6dg7 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-05T05:59:20.427Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Researching fashion studies: A brief historiography

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  15 December 2016

Olivia Warschaw*
Affiliation:
Reference Associate, Social Science and Humanities, New York University, Division of Libraries, 70 Washington Square South, New York, NY 10012, USA Email: [email protected]
Get access

Abstract

Fashion is often held synonymous with frivolity, excess, and luxury; as such, the study of costume history and theory has historically been considered impractical or subsidiary. The significant rise in costume education and scholarship during the 20th century has brought new and more frequent queries regarding the histories of fashion, etiquette, and material culture to our libraries. We are now often asked to assist in researches of cultures of style, and how they may be analyzed in a multidisciplinary context. Is it possible to analyze fashion trends through the lens of the law? Are effects of American colonialism present in fashion trends today? This brief historiography of costume and fashion studies seeks to utilize a multi- and interdisciplinary lens that reference librarians may employ to assist patrons with style-related inquiries.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
Copyright © ARLIS/UK&Ireland 2017 

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

1. McNeil, Peter. “Conference Report: “The Future of Fashion Studies”.Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 14, no. 1 (2010): 105110. doi:10.2752/175174110X12544983515312 CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

2. Tseëlon, Efrat. “From Fashion to Masquerade: Towards an Ungendered Paradigm.” In Body Dressing, ed. by Entwistle, Joanne and Wilson, Elizabeth. (Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2001), 103 Google Scholar.

3. McNeil, “The Future of Fashion Studies”, 108.

4. Granata, Francesca. “Fashion Studies in-between: A Methodological Case Study and an Inquiry into the State of Fashion Studies.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 16, no. 1 (2012): 68. doi: 10.2752/175174112X13183318404221 CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

5. Ibid.

6. Parker, Jan. “Disciplinarity”. In Encyclopedia of Educational Theory and Philosophy. edited by Phillips, D.C.. (Thousand Oaks: Sage Publications, 2014)Google Scholar. http://search.credoreference.com/content/entry/sageedthphly/disciplinarity/0.

7. Breward, Christopher. “Between the Museum and the Academy: Fashion Research and its Constituencies.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 12, no. 1 (2008): 85. doi: 10.2752/175174108X269568 CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

8. McNeil, “The Future of Fashion Studies”, 105.

9. Marcketti, Sarah B.. “Effective Learning Strategies in the History of Dress.” The History Teacher. 44, no. 4 (2011): 551 Google Scholar. http://www.jstor.org/stable/41304010.

10. King, Lindsay M. and Clement, Russell T.. “Style and Substance: Fashion in Twenty-First-Century Research Libraries.” Art Documentation, 31, no. 1 (2012): 94 Google Scholar. http://www.jstor.org/stable/10.1086/664912.

11. “History of Dress and Textile.” Accessed June 26, 2016. http://courtauld.ac.uk/research/sections/history-dress.

12. “Master of Arts in Costume Studies.” Accessed June 26, 2016. http://steinhardt.nyu.edu/art/costume/.

13. “Overview.” Accessed July 5, 2016. http://www.lacma.org/overview#ms.

14. “What is the Autry?” Accessed July 5, 2016. https://theautry.org/about-us.

15. Taylor, Lou. The Study of Dress History (Manchester: Manchester University Press: 2002), 1 Google Scholar.

16. Ibid., 12.

17. Ibid., 3.

18. Ibid., 15.

19. Nystrom, Paul. Economics of Fashion (New York: The Ronald Press Company, 1928)Google Scholar. https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/000967740.

20. Simmel, Georg. “Adornment from Sociology (1908)” in The Rise of Fashion: A Reader, edited by Purdy, , Daniel, . (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2004)Google Scholar.

21. Nystrom. Economics of Fashion, 4.

22. Ibid., 6–7.

23. Ibid., 9.

24. Ibid.

25. Ibid.

26. Ibid., 10

27. Simmel, “Adornment from Sociology (1908)”, 81.

28. Ibid., 82.

29. Ibid., 80.

30. Ibid.

31. Alan Hunt. Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law. (Houndmills: Macmillan, 1996).

32. Giorgio Riello. “Sumptuary Laws”. In Encyclopedia of Consumer Culture. edited by Dale Southerton. (Thousand Oaks: Sage Publications, 2011). http://search.credoreference.com/content/entry/sagecc/sumptuary_laws/0.

33. Hunt. Governance of the Consuming Passions, 3.

34. Ibid., 2.

35. Jennifer C. Ingrey. “Troubling Gender Binaries in Schools: From Sumptuary Law to Sartorial Agency.” Discourse: Studies in the Cultural Politics of Education 34, no. 3 (2013): 427. doi: 10.1080/01596306.2012.717194.

36. Ibid., 428.

37. Vivian Burnett, “Pirating of designs: Call is issued for all interests affected to get together,” New York Times, May 12, 1913, 8.

38. Kimberly Ann Barton. “Back to the Beginning: A Revival of a 1913 Argument for Intellectual Property Protection for Fashion Design.” The Journal of Corporation Law 35, no. 2 (January 1, 2010): 426. http://search.proquest.com/docview/89064031?accountid=12768.

39. Ibid., 439.

40. Jessica Hill and Hyun-Hwa Lee. “Young Generation Y Consumers’ Perceptions of Sustainability in the Apparel Industry.” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal 16, no. 4 (September 14, 2012): 477–491. http://search.proquest.com/docview/1086518527?accountid=12768.

41. Ibid., 479.

42. Ibid.

43. Ibid., 481–482.

44. Ibid, 487.

45. Ibid.