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Fashionable Suppliers 1660–1700: Leading Tailors and Clothing Tradesmen of the Restoration Period

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 November 2011

Diana de Marly
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Summary

A study of seven collections of clothing accounts reveals that in the period 1660–1700 ten firms held a dominant position in London as suppliers of clothes and materials to the nobility. Below this group there were numerous tradesmen with only one aristocratic patron at a time.

Type
Research Article
Information
The Antiquaries Journal , Volume 58 , Issue 2 , September 1978 , pp. 333 - 351
Copyright
Copyright © The Society of Antiquaries of London 1978

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References

NOTES

1 The Diary of Samuel Pepys, complete transcription, eds. Latham, R. and Matthews, W., 1970Google Scholar; IV, entry for 21st Oct. 1663, and V, 14th Mar. 1664.

2 Ibid., IV, 31st Oct. 1663.

3 Ibid., IX, 10th May 1669.

4 Baldwin, F. E., Sumptuary Legislation in England, Johns Hopkins University, Studies in Historical and Political Science, ser. 44, no. 1, 1926, pp. 248–9Google Scholar.

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6 Ibid., Mar. 1676 – Feb. 1677, pp. 18–19.

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15 As in the engraving by Aegidius Sadeler, 1607, British Museum.

16 As in the engraving by Abraham Bosse, c. 1637, Fitzwilliam Museum.

17 British Library, Add. MS. 21, 950, f. 31.

18 P.R.O., Lord Chamberlain's accounts, L.C. 9/112, f.13. See also Boswell, E., The Restoration Court Stage (1660–1702) with a particular account of the production of Calisto, 1966 passimGoogle Scholar.

19 See n. 7, above.

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33 P.R.O., Declare d Accounts of the Pipe and Audit Office, Aoi bundle 2050, roll 12.

34 P.R.O., L.C.9/274, ff. 273–91.

35 P.R.O., L.C.9/112, passim.

36 Ibid., f. 7 verso, f. 13 verso.

37 P.R.O., L.C.2/13.

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39 Lauderdale accounts, bundle 910, bill dated 15th July 1673. I am grateful to Major General Sir Humphry Tollemache, Bt., for permission to study these papers.

40 Ibid., bill of 11th July 1673.

41 Accounts of Algernon Percy, Earl of North-umberland, MS. 5759–5795. I am indebted to Lord Egremont for permission to include this material.

42 Ibid., MS. 5770, MS. 5783.

43 Ibid., MS. 5759.

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45 See n. 7 above.

46 British Library, Add. MS. 21, 950, ff. 373–7, ff. 37–41, ff. 383–4, ff. 71–2, f. 229.

47 National Art Library, RC.U.21, RC.K.3, RC.K.4.

48 Ibid., RC.K.3, f-16.

49 Ibid., f. 50.

50 See n. 7, above.

51 See n. 39, bundle 911.

52 Ibid., bundle 921.

53 Pepys, I, 14th 09 1660, 10th Mar. 1660Google Scholar.

54 Ibid., IV, 29th Nov. 1663.

55 Ibid., I, p. 194 n. 2.

56 Ibid., I, 6th July 1660, 14th Aug., 21st Aug., 24th Aug. He did not wear the velvet coat until the royal progress on 22nd Apr. 1661. The committee meeting was on the 16th May 1661.

57 Ibid., V, 31st Mar. 1664, 4th May 1664.

58 Ibid., 28th Oct. 1664, 30th Oct. 1664, VI, 1st June 1665.

59 Ibid., VII, 12th Jan. 1666, IX, 14th May 1668.

60 Ibid., IV, 9th Jan. 1663.

61 Ibid., II, 9th Nov. 1661, IX, 25th Oct. 1668, 4th Jan. 1668/9.

62 See n. 41, MS. 5783.

63 Pepys, I, 17th 08 1660, 18th Aug.Google Scholar

64 Ibid., IV, 12th June 1663.

65 Ibid., VII, 26th Sept. 1666.

66 Historical Manuscripts Commission, 12th Report, Rutland, Belvoir, App. V, 1889, letter of 19th Dec. 1685.

67 Ibid.

68 British Museum, Sir Ambrose Heal coll. cat. nos. 40:13, 40:54, 40:74, and Banks coll. cat. no. Y5.268.

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70 Leuridant, F., Une Ambassade de Prince de Ligne en Angleterre 1660, 1923, p. 9Google Scholar.

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75 See n. 7 above.

76 Pepys, IX, 16th 02 1669Google Scholar.

77 See n. 41, MS. 5783.

78 British Library, Add. MS. 27, 588, f. 13, and P.R.O. L.C.5/65, f. 66.

79 The Diary of John Evelyn, ed. Beer, E. S. de, 1955, III, p. 572, and note 3Google Scholar.

80 Pepys, IX, 20th 02 1669Google Scholar.

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82 Pepys, V, p. 27, 01 1664Google Scholar.

83 See n. 4 1 passim.

84 Ibid., MS. 5760.

85 Lauderdale accounts, bundle 911, bills for 18th Aug. 1673 and 15th Oct. 1673.

86 See n. 41, MS. 5760.

87 Pepys, VIII, 12th 05 1667Google Scholar.

88 P.R.O., L.C. 218, and n. 41, passim.

89 See n. 46, f. 80.

90 Ibid., f. 29.

91 See n. 18, f. 7 v.

92 See n. 47, RC.U.21, f. 11, and Thompson, G. Scott, Life in a Noble Household 1641–1700, 1965 paperback edition, pp. 337–8Google Scholar.

93 See n. 7, p. 113.

94 See n. 46, f. 3, f. 51.

95 See n. 41, MS. 5759–5795.

96 Ibid., MS. 5796–5808.

97 See n. 47, RC.U.21, f. 8.

98 See n. 41, MS. 5796.

99 Ibid., MS. 5809, MS. 5808.

100 See n. 18, ff. 3–4, and L.C.9/274, f. 229.

101 Ibid., passim.

102 Pepys, V, 18th 04 1664Google Scholar.

103 See n. 39, bundle 910, bill dated 9th Sept. 1673.

104 See n. 100 and n. 18. 105 See n. 41 passim.

106 See n. 39, bill dated Sept. 1671. 107 See n. 18, f. 13 v, and n. 37.

108 See n. 47, RC.K.3, f. 45.

109 See n. 41 passim.

110 C.S.P.D., 11 1673-Feb. 1675, pp. 512–13Google Scholar, and Mar. 1677-Feb. 1678, p. 69.

111 See n. 39, bundle 912.

112 Statutes at Large, from the Twelth Year of King Charles II to the Last Year of King James II. Inclusive, by Danby Pickering, of Gray's Inn, Esq., 1763, pp. 228, 420, 440.

113 See n. 41 passim.

114 See n. 37.

115 See n. 32.

116 Ibid.,

117 See n. 47 passim.

118 See n. 41 passim.

119 See n. 46, f. 404, and n. 7, p. 116.

120 See n. 32 and n. 37.

121 P.R.O., L.C.9/274, f. 252.

122 See n. 41, MS. 5808.

123 See n. 17, f. 412.

124 See n. 32.

125 See n. 18, f. 14.

126 Hoston, L., The Commonwealth and Restoration Stage, 1928, p. 271Google Scholar.

127 See n. 37.

128 Chamberlayne, E., Angliae Notitia, 15th edn., 1684, p. 179Google Scholar.

129 Thompson, G. Scott, op. cit. n. 92, p. 342Google Scholar; bill printed in Costume, vi (1972), iiGoogle Scholar.

130 Pepys, VIII, 5th 10 1667Google Scholar; II, 1st July 1661; IV, 21st Nov. 1663; VII, 30th March 1666.

131 See n. 41, MS. 5770.

132 See n. 39, bundle 911.

133 Op. cit., n. 73, p. 213.

134 See n. 41, MS. 5769, and MS. 5760. 135 See n. 7, pp. 106–7.

136 See n. 17, f. 372.

137 P.R.O., L.C.5/137, f. 174.

138 Thompson, G. Scott, op. cit., n. 92, p. 84Google Scholar.

139 See n. 66, passim.

140 Green, D., op. cit., n. 38, p. 74Google Scholar.

141 See n. 29, passim.

142 An Account of the Conduct of the Dowager Duchess of Marlborough, from her first coming to Court, to the Tear 1710 (1742), pp. 222–4Google Scholar.

143 Clothing accounts of the Russell family, National Art Library, Victoria an d Albert Museum, MS. RC.K. 4. L.377 (79).

144 Ibid., RC.U.21, f. 11.

145 Lauderdale family accounts, col. Major General Sir Humphry Tollemache, Bt., Bundle 911.