Skip to main content Accessibility help

We use cookies to distinguish you from other users and to provide you with a better experience on our websites. Close this message to accept cookies or find out how to manage your cookie settings.

Close cookie message
×
Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-dk4vv Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-31T15:00:06.093Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
Series:   Elements in the Global Middle Ages

Medieval Textiles across Eurasia, c. 300–1400

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  08 May 2023

Patricia Blessing ,
Elizabeth Dospěl Williams  and
Eiren L. Shea
Patricia Blessing
Affiliation:
Princeton University, New Jersey
Elizabeth Dospěl Williams
Affiliation:
Dumbarton Oaks, Washington DC
Eiren L. Shea
Affiliation:
Grinnell College, Iowa

Summary

This study considers the textiles made, traded, and exchanged across Eurasia from late antiquity to the late Middle Ages with special attention to the socio-political and cultural aspects of this universal medium. It presents a wide range of textiles used in both domestic and religious settings, as dress and furnishings, and for elite and ordinary owners. The introduction presents historiographical background to the study of textiles and explains the conditions of their survival in archaeological contexts and museums. A section on the materials and techniques used to produce textiles if followed by those outlining textile production, industry, and trade across Eurasia. Further sections examine the uses for dress and furnishing textiles and the appearance of imported fabrics in European contexts, addressing textiles' functions and uses in medieval societies. Lastly, a concluding section on textile aesthetics connects fabrics to their broader visual and material context.
Get access

Keywords

textilesdresscostume historymedieval Eurasiaweaving techniques
Type
Element
Information
Series: Elements in the Global Middle Ages
Online ISBN: 9781009393379
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication: 25 May 2023

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

Bibliography

Primary Sources

al-Din, R. (1998–99). Jami’u’t-tawarikh: Compendium of Chronicles – A History of the Mongols, vol. 1–3. English translation and annotation by Thackston, W.M.. Sources of Oriental Languages and Literatures 45, ed. Şinasi Tekin and Gönül Alpay Tekin, Central Asian Sources IV. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Department of Near Eastern Languages and Civilizations.Google Scholar
al-Washsha, , trans. S. Bouhlal (2004). Le livre du brocart (al-Kitâb al-Muwashshâ) par al-Washshâ’, ou La société raffinée de Bagdad au Xe siècle. Paris: Gallimard.Google Scholar
Bauer, A. and Rau, R. ed. (1971). Quellen zur Geschichte der sächsischen Kaiserzeit: Widukinds Sachsengeschichte, Adalberts Fortsetzung der Chronik Reginos, Liudprands Werke. Darmstadt: Wissenschaftliche Buchgesellschaft.Google Scholar
Chen, G. F. Zhang, Liu, X., Dang, B., eds. (2011). Yuan dian zhang, vol. 4. Tianjin: Zhonghua shuju.Google Scholar
Davis, R. (2007). The Lives of the Eighth-Century Popes (liber Pontificalis): The Ancient Biographies of Nine Popes from AD 715 to AD 817. 2nd ed. Liverpool: Liverpool University Press.Google Scholar
Ghabin, A. (2009). Hisba: Arts and Craft in Islam.Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz Verlag.Google Scholar
Huang, S. (1986). Tongzhi Tiaoge. Hangzhou: Zhejian guji chuban she. Koder, J. trans. (1991). Das Eparchenbuch Leons des Weisen. Vienna: Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften.Google Scholar
Legge, J. trans. (1967). Li Chi: Book of Rites: An Encyclopedia of Ancient Ceremonial Usages, Religious Creeds, and Social Institutions vol. 2, edited with introduction and study guide by Chai, Ch’u and Chai, Winberg. New Hyde Park: University Books.Google Scholar
Li, R. trans. (1996). Xuanzang and Bianji, The Great Tang Dynasty Record of the Western Regions. Berkeley, CA: Numata Center for Buddhist Translation & Research.Google Scholar
Mayr-Harting, H. (2001). Liudprand of Cremona’s Account of his Legation to Constantinople (968) and Ottonian Imperial Strategy. English Historical Review, 116(467), 539–556. https://doi-org/10.1093/enghis/116.467.539Google Scholar
Polo, M. (1958). The Travels. Trans. Ronald Latham. London: Penguin Books.Google Scholar
Polo, M. (1976). The Description of the World, Trans. Paul Pelliot and A.C. Moule. New York: AMS Press.Google Scholar
Procopius, trans. H. B. Dewing (1928). History of the Wars, Volume V. Books 7.36–38. (Gothic War). Loeb Classical Library 217. https://doi-org/10.4159/DLCL.procopius-history_wars.1914.Google Scholar
Lian, Song 宋濂 (1976 [1370]). Yuan shi. Beijing: Zhonghua shuju.Google Scholar
Tuotuo脫脫 (1971). Jin shi 金史. Taipei: Chengwen chuban she.Google Scholar
Tuotuo 脫脫 (1974). Liao shi 遼史. Beijing: Zhonghua shuju.Google Scholar
Tuotuo 脫脫 (1977). Song shi 宋史. Beijing: Zhonghua shuju.Google Scholar

Secondary Sources

Alchermes, J. D. (2009). Αναθέματα εορτικά: Studies in Honor of Thomas F. Mathews. Mainz: Philipp von Zabern.Google Scholar
Ansari, S., ed. (2013). Special Issue: Textile as Money on the Silk Road. Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society, 23, 2.Google Scholar
Atasoy, N. (2000). Otağ-ı Hümayun: Osmanlı Çadırları. Istanbul: Aygaz.Google Scholar
Baker, P. L. (1995). Islamic Textiles. London: British Museum.Google Scholar
Balfour-Paul, J. (1997). Indigo in the Arab World. Surrey: Curzon.Google Scholar
Ball, J. (2005). Byzantine Dress: Representations of Secular Dress in Eighth- to Twelfth-Century Painting. New York: Palgrave.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ball, J. and Williams, E. Dospel (2022). “Byzantine Dress and Fashion,” Byzantium and Friends podcast, January 6, 2022, www.podbean.com/ew/pb-8qxyj-1170892.Google Scholar
Barnes, R. (1997). Indian Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: The Newberry Collection in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford. Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, http://jameelcentre.ashmolean.org/collection/7/10236/10316.Google Scholar
Bénazeth, D., and Dal-Prà, P. (1995). Renaissance d’une tapisserie antique. La Revue du Louvre et des musées de France, 4, 29–40.Google Scholar
Blessing, P. (2022). Fiber Fragments: The Divided Histories of Medieval Islamic Textiles. In Bowker, S., Gazi, X., and Öztürk, O., eds., Deconstructing the Myths of Islamic Art. New York: Routledge, pp. 77–90.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Blessing, P. (2019). Weaving on the Wall: Architecture and Textiles in the Monastery of Las Huelgas in Burgos. Studies in Iconography, 40, 137–182.Google Scholar
Blessing, P. (2018). Draping, Wrapping, Hanging: Transposing Textile Materiality in the Middle Age. The Textile Museum Journal, 45, 2–18. https://doi-org/10.7560/TMJ4502.Google Scholar
Bogdanović, J. (2014). The Moveable Canopy. The Performative Space of the Major Sakkos of Metropolitan Photios. Byzantinoslavica, LXXII, 247–288.Google Scholar
Bogensperger, I. (2016). How to Order a Textile in Ancient Times: The Step before Distribution and Trade. In Dross-Krüpe, K. and Nosch, M.-L. eds. Textiles, Trade, and Theories. From the Ancient Near East to the Mediterranean. Münster: Ugarit-Verlag, pp. 259–280.Google Scholar
Bolman, E., ed. (2016). The Red Monastery Church: Beauty and Asceticism in Upper Egypt. New Haven: Yale University Press.Google Scholar
Borkopp-Restle, B. (2019). Der Schatz der Marienkirche zu Danzig: liturgische Gewänder und textile Objekte aus dem späten Mittelalter. Affalterbach: Didymos-Verlag.Google Scholar
Brubaker, L. (2004). The Elephant and the Ark: Cultural and Material Interchange across the Mediterranean in the Eighth and Ninth Centuries. Dumbarton Oaks Papers, 58, 175–195, www.jstor.org/stable/3591385.Google Scholar
Bücheler, A. (2019). Ornament as Argument: Textile Pages and Textile Metaphors in Early Medieval Manuscripts. Berlin: De Gruyter.Google Scholar
Bühl, G. and Dospěl Williams, E. (2019). Catalogue of the Textiles in the Dumbarton Oaks Byzantine Collection. Washington, DC: Dumbarton Oaks, www.doaks.org/resources/textiles/.Google Scholar
Bühl, G., Krody, S., and Dospěl Williams, E. (2019). Woven Interiors: Furnishing Early Medieval Egypt. Washington, DC: The Textile Museum, https://museum2.drupal.gwu.edu/sites/g/files/zaxdzs3226/f/Woven%20Interiors%20Catalogue.pdf.Google Scholar
Burnham, D. (1980). Warp and Weft: A Textile Terminology. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum.Google Scholar
Burns, J. (2014). Sea of Silk: A Textile Geography of Women’s Work in Medieval French Literature. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press.Google Scholar
Bush, O. (2018). Reframing the Alhambra. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press.Google Scholar
Cabrera Lafuente, A. (2020). Textiles from the Museum of San Isidoro (Leon): New Evidence for Re-evaluating their Chronology and Provenance. In Martin, T., ed., The Medieval Iberian Treasury in the Context of Cultural Interchange (Expanded Edition). Leiden: Brill, pp. 81–117, https://brill.com/view/title/57009?rskey=17nl7N&result=1.Google Scholar
Calament, F. (2005). La révélation d’Antinoé par Albert Gayet: Histoire, archéologie, muséographie. Cairo: Institut français d’archéologie orientale.Google Scholar
Calament, F. and Durand, M., eds. (2013). Antinoé, à la vie, à la mode. Visions d’élégance dans les solitudes. Exhibition catalogue, Lyon: Musée des Tissus/Fage.Google Scholar
Canepa, M. P. (2014). Textiles and Elite Tastes between the Mediterranean, Iran and Asia at the End of Antiquity. In Nosch, M.-L., Feng, Z. and Varadarajan, L., eds., Global Textile Encounters. Oxford: Oxbow Books, pp. 1–14.Google Scholar
Canepa, M. P. (2010). The Two Eyes of the Earth: Art and Ritual of Kingship between Rome and Sasanian Iran. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Cardon, D. (2007). Natural Dyes: Sources, Tradition, Technology and Science. London: Archetype.Google Scholar
Carroll, D. (1998). Looms and Textiles of the Copts, First Millennium Egyptian Textiles in the Carl Austin Rietz Collection of the California Academy of Science. Seattle: University of Washington Press.Google Scholar
Caseau, B. (2007). Objects in Churches: The Testimony of Inventories. In Lavan, L., Swift, E., and Putzeys, T., eds. Objects in Context, Objects in Use: Material Spatiality in Late Antiquity. Leiden: Brill, pp. 551–579.Google Scholar
Chen, B. (2019). Silk and Fashion in Tang China. Seattle: University of Washington Press.Google Scholar
Chen, B. (2016). Material Girls: Silk and Self-Fashioning in Tang China. Fashion Theory, 21(1), 5–33.Google Scholar
Chowdhury, Z. (2015). An Imperial Mughal Tent and Mobile Sovereignty in Eighteenth-Century Jodhpur. Art History, 38(4), 668–681.Google Scholar
CIETA (Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Anciens) (2006). Vocabulary of Textile Terms. Lyon: Publications du CIETA. https://cieta.fr/cieta-vocabulaire/.Google Scholar
Çızakça, M. (1980). A Short History of the Bursa Silk Industry (1500-1900). Journal of the Social and Economic History of the Orient, 23, 142–152.Google Scholar
Clark, H. (1995). Muslims and Hindus in the Culture and Morphology of Quanzhou from the Tenth to the Thirteenth Century. Journal of World History, 6(1), 49–74.Google Scholar
Colburn, K. (2019). Loops, Tabs, and Reinforced Edges: Evidence for Textiles as Architectural Elements. In Bühl, G. and Dospěl Williams, E., eds., Catalogue of the Textiles in the Dumbarton Oaks Byzantine Collection, ed. Washington, DC: Dumbarton Oaks, www.doaks.org/resources/textiles/essays/colburn.Google Scholar
Colburn, K. (2016). A Closer Look at Textiles from the Collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art: Materials and Techniques. In: Thomas, T. K., ed., Designing Identity: The Power of Textiles in Late Antiquity. Exhibition Catalogue, Institute for the Study of the Ancient World, New York: Princeton University Press, pp. 126–141.Google Scholar
Colburn, K. (2012). Materials and Techniques of Late Antique and Early Islamic Textiles Found in Egypt. In , H. Evans, C. and Ratliff, B., eds., Byzantium and Islam: Age of Transition, 7th–9th Century. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, pp. 161–163.Google Scholar
Como, M. (2005) . Silkworms and Consorts in Nara Japan. Asian Folklore Studies, 64(1), 111–131.Google Scholar
Compareti, M. (2003). The Role of the Sogdian Colonies in the Diffusion of the Pearl Roundels Pattern. In Compareti, M., Raffetta, P., and Scarcia, G., eds., Ērān ud Anērān: Studies Presented to Boris Ilich Marshak on the Occasion of His 70th Birthday. Electronic Version (October 2003) – Updated August 2006, www.transoxiana.org/Eran/Articles/compareti.html.Google Scholar
Contadini, A. (2013). Sharing a Taste? Material Culture and Intellectual Curiosity around the Mediterranean, from the Eleventh to the Sixteenth Century. In Contadini, A. and Norton, C., eds., The Renaissance and the Ottoman World. Farnham and Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2013, pp. 23–61.Google Scholar
De Moor, A., Fluck, C., and Linscheid, P., eds. (2015). Drawing the Threads Together: Textiles and Footwear of the 1st Millennium AD from Egypt; Proceedings of the 7th Conference of the Research Group “Textiles from the Nile Valley,” Antwerp, 7–9 October 2011. Tielt: Lannoo.Google Scholar
Denney, J. (2016). Elite Mongol Dress of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368): Focusing on Textiles Woven with Gold. In von Fircks, J. and Schorta, R., eds., Oriental Silks in Medieval Europe. Riggisberger Berichte 21. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, pp. 124–135.Google Scholar
Denny, W. B. and Krody, S. B. (2002). The Classical Tradition in Anatolian Carpets. Washington, DC: Textile Museum.Google Scholar
Dimmig, A. (2016). Fabricating a New Image: Imperial Tents in the Late Ottoman Period. In Gruber, C. J., ed., Islamic Architecture on the Move: Motion and Modernity, Bristol: Intellect, pp. 103–133.Google Scholar
Dodds, J. D. ed. (1992). Al-Andalus: The Art of Islamic Spain. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art.Google Scholar
Dolezalek, I. (2013). Textile Connections? Two Ifrīqiyan Church Treasuries in Norman Sicily and the Problem of Continuity across Political Change. al-Masāq: Journal of the Medieval Mediterranean, 25(1), 92–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/09503110.2013.767009.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Donkin, R. (1977). The Insect Dyes of Western and West-Central Asia. Anthropos, 72(5/6), 847–80.Google Scholar
Dospěl Williams, E. (2023). The Mobility of Fabric: Textiles in and around Medieval Eurasia. In Luyster, A., ed., Bringing the Holy Land Home The Crusades, Chertsey Abbey, and the Reconstruction of a Medieval Masterpiece. London: Harvey Miller, pp. 177–200.Google Scholar
Dospěl Williams, E. (2022). Adoption, Adaptation, Reinterpretation: Inscribed Textiles in Medieval Egypt’s Christian and Jewish Communities. In McWilliams, M. and Sokoly, J., eds., Social Fabrics. Cambridge MA: Harvard University Art Museums, pp. 31–38.Google Scholar
Dospěl Williams, E. (2019). A Taste for Textiles: Designing Umayyad and Early ‘Abbāsid Interiors. Dumbarton Oaks Papers, 73, 409–432, www.jstor.org/stable/26955185.Google Scholar
Dospěl Williams, E. (2018a). Appealing to the Senses: Experiencing Adornment in the Early Medieval Eastern Mediterranean. In Griffiths, F. and Starkey, K., eds., Sensory Reflections: Traces of Experience in Medieval Artifacts. Berlin: De Gruyter, pp. 78–96.Google Scholar
Dospěl Williams, E. (2018b). Gems in Cloth and Stone: Medium, Materiality, and the Late Antique Jeweled Aesthetic. The Textile Museum Journal, 45, 22–39, https://doi.org/10.7560/TMJ4503.Google Scholar
Dusenbury, M. M. (2015). Color at the Court of Japan in the Heian Period. In Dusenbury, Mary M. (ed.), Color in Ancient and Medieval East Asia. Lawrence: Spencer Museum of Art, University of Kansas, New Haven: Yale University Press, pp. 163–177.Google Scholar
Eastmond, A. and Jones, L. (2001). Robing, Power, and Legitimacy in Armenia and Georgia. In Gordon, S., ed., Robes and Honor: The Medieval World of Investiture. New York: Palgrave, pp. 241–254.Google Scholar
Ekici, D., Baudez, B., and Blessing, P., ed. (2023). Textile in Architecture: From the Middle Ages to Modernity. New York: Routledge.Google Scholar
Eldem, E. (2016). The Genesis of the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. In Farhad, M. and Rettig, S., eds., The Art of the Qur’an: Treasures from the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts Washington, DC: Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian Institution, pp. 118–139.Google Scholar
El Rashidi, S. and Bowker, S. (2018). The Tentmakers of Cairo: Egypt’s Medieval and Modern Applique Craft. Cairo: The American University in Cairo Press.Google Scholar
El-Sayed, R. and Fluck, C. (2020). The Textile Centre Akhmîm-Panopolis (Egypt) in Late Antiquity: Material Evidence for Continuity and Change in Society, Religion, Industry and Trade: Proceedings of the International Conference Organised by Georg-August-Universität Göttingen in Cooperation with Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst der Staatlichen Museen zu Berlin – Preußischer Kulturbesitz, Göttingen, 28-30 September 2017. Wiesbaden: Reichert Verlag.Google Scholar
Elsberg, H. A. and Guest, R. (1934). Another Silk Fabric Woven in Baghdad. The Burlington Magazine for Connoisseurs, 64(375), 270–272, www.jstor.org/stable/865888.Google Scholar
Emery, I. (2009). The Primary Structures of Fabrics: An Illustrated Classification. London and Washington, DC: Thames and Hudson and The Textile Museum.Google Scholar
Emon, A. M. (2012). Religious Pluralism in Islamic Law: Dhimmis and Others in the Empire of Law. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Ertuǧ, A. (1996). Silks for the Sultans: Ottoman Imperial garments from Topkapi Palace. Istanbul: Ertuğ & Kocabıyık.Google Scholar
Evans, H. C. and Ratliff, B., eds. (2012). Byzantium and Islam: Age of Transition, 7th–9th Century. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art.Google Scholar
Featherstone, J. M. (2005). The Chrysotriklinos Seen through De Cerimoniis. In Hoffmann, L. M., ed., Zwischen Polis, Provinz und Peripherie: Beiträge zur byzantinischen Geschichte und Kultur. Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz, pp. 845–852.Google Scholar
Fehlmann, M., Matzke, M., and Söll-Tauchert, S. (2019). Gold & Ruhm: Kunst und Macht unter Kaiser Heinrich II. Basel: Historisches Museum Basel and Munich: Hirmer.Google Scholar
Feliciano, M. J. (2020). Sovereign, Saint, and City: Honor and Reuse of Textiles in the Treasury of San Isidoro (Leon). In Martin, T., ed., The Medieval Iberian Treasury in the Context of Cultural Interchange (Expanded Edition). Leiden: Brill, pp. 118–144. Open access online edition: https://brill.com/view/title/57009?rskey=17nl7N&result=1.Google Scholar
Feliciano, M. J. (2014). Medieval Textiles in Iberia: Studies for a New Approach. In Roxburgh, D. J., ed., Envisioning Islamic Art and Architecture: Essays in Honor of Renata Holod. Leiden: Brill, pp. 46–65.Google Scholar
Feliciano, M. J. (2005). Muslim Shrouds for Christian Kings? A Reassessment of Andalusi Textiles in Thirteenth-Century Castilian Life and Ritual. In Robinson, C. and Rouhi, L., eds., Under the Influence: Questioning the Comparative in Medieval Castile. Leiden: Brill, pp. 101–132.Google Scholar
Fluck, C. and Helmecke, G., ed. (2006). Textile Messages: Inscribed Fabrics from Roman to Abbasid Egypt. Leiden: Brill.Google Scholar
Fulghum, M. M. (2001–02). Under Wraps: Byzantine Textiles as Major and Minor Arts. Studies in the Decorative Arts, 9(1), 13–33, www.jstor.org/stable/40662797.Google Scholar
Gajewski, A. and Seeberg, S. (2016). Having Her Hand In It? Elite Women as ‘Makers’ of Textile Art in the Middle Ages. Journal of Medieval History, 42(1), 26–50, https://doi.org/10.1080/03044181.2015.1106970.Google Scholar
Galliker, J. (2017). Terminology Associated with Silk in the Middle Byzantine Period (AD 843-1204). In Gaspa, S., Michel, C., and Nosch, M.-L., eds., Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD. Lincoln, NE: Zea Books, pp. 346–373, https://halshs.archives-ouvertes.fr/halshs-01674057.Google Scholar
Galliker, J. (2015a). Middle Byzantine Silk in Context: Integrating the Textual and Material Evidence. Ph.D thesis, University of Birmingham.Google Scholar
Galliker, J. (2015b). Application of Computer Vision to Analysis of Historic Silk Textiles. In De Moor, A., Fluck, C., and Linscheid, P., eds., Drawing the Threads Together: Textiles and Footwear of the 1st Millennium AD from Egypt; Proceedings of the 7th Conference of the Research Group “Textiles from the Nile Valley,” Antwerp, 7–9 October 2011. Tielt: Lannoo, pp. 150–163.Google Scholar
Garrison, E. (2017). Mimetic Bodies: Repetition, Replication, and Simulation in the Marriage Charter of Empress Theophanu, Word & Image, 33(2), 212–232.Google Scholar
Garver, V. L. (2018). Sensory Experiences of Low-Status Female Textile Workers in the Carolingian World. In Griffiths, F. and Starkey, K., eds., Sensory Reflections: Traces of Experience in Medieval Artifacts. Berlin: De Gruyter, 50–76.Google Scholar
Gasparini, M. (2019). Transcending Patterns: Silk Road Cultural and Artistic Interactions through Central Asian Textiles. Honolulu: University of Hawai’i Press.Google Scholar
Gasparini, M. (2013). The Silk Cover of the Admonitions Scroll: Aesthetic and Visual Analysis. In Santangelo, Paolo ed., Ming Qing Studies. Rome: Aracne editrice, pp. 161–218.Google Scholar
Goitein, S. D. (1983). A Mediterranean Society: The Jewish Communities of the Arab World as Portrayed in the Documents of the Cairo Geniza, vol. 4. Daily Life. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Goitein, S. D. (1973). Letters of Medieval Jewish Traders. Princeton University Press.Google Scholar
Goitein, S. D. (1967). A Mediterranean Society: The Jewish Communities of the Arab World as Portrayed in the Cairo Geniza, vol. 1. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Goitein, S. D. and Friedman, M. (2007). Indian Traders of the Middle Ages: Documents from the Cairo Geniza. Leiden: Brill.Google Scholar
Gordon, S. D., ed. (2001). Robes and Honor: The Medieval World of Investiture. New York: Palgrave.Google Scholar
Grabar, O. and Blair, S. (1980). Epic Images and Contemporary History: The Illustrations of the Great Mongol Shahnama. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Guardia, M. (2011). San Baudelio de Berlanga: Una encrucijada. Barcelona: Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona.Google Scholar
Hambly, G. R. G. (2001). From Baghdad to Bukhara, from Ghazna to Delhi: The Khil’a Ceremony in the Transmission of Kingly Pomp and Circumstance. In Gordon, S., ed., Robes and Honor: The Medieval World of Investiture. New York: Palgrave, pp. 193–222.Google Scholar
Hansen, V. (2016). Silk Road: A New History with Documents. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Harris, S. (2019). The Sensory Archaeology of Textiles. In Skeates, R. and Day, J., ed., The Routledge Handbook of Sensory Archaeology. New York: Routledge, pp. 210–232.Google Scholar
Hillenbrand, R. (2011). Propaganda in the Mongol “World History”. British Academy Review, 17, 29–38.Google Scholar
Hoffman, E. R. (2001). Pathways of Portability: Islamic and Christian Interchange from the Tenth to the Twelfth Century. Art History, 24, 17–50.Google Scholar
Hoffman, E. R. and Redford, S. (2017). Transculturation in the Eastern Mediterranean. In Flood, F. B. and Necipoğlu, G., eds., A Companion to Islamic Art and Architecture. Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, vol. 1, pp. 405–430.Google Scholar
Hoskins, N. A. (2004). The Coptic Tapestry Albums and the Archaeologist of Antinoé, Albert Gayet. Seattle: University of Washington Press.Google Scholar
Houghteling, S. (2020). Dyeing the Springtime: The Art and Poetry of Fleeting Textile Colors in Medieval and Early Modern South Asia. Religions, 11(12), 627–646. https://doi.org/10.3390/rel11120627.Google Scholar
Hu, J. (2017). Global Medieval at the End of the Silk Road circa 756 CE: The Shōsō-in Collection in Japan. The Medieval Globe, 3(2), 177–202.Google Scholar
Jackson, P. (2017). The Mongols and the Islamic World. New Haven: Yale University Press.Google Scholar
Jacoby, D. (2017). The Production and Diffusion of Andalusi Silk and Silk Textiles, Mid-Eighth to Mid-Thirteenth Century. In Shalem, A., ed., The Chasuble of Thomas Becket. Munich: Hirmer Verlag, pp. 142–151.Google Scholar
Jacoby, D. (2016). Oriental Silks at the Time of the Mongols: Patterns of Trade and Distribution in the West. Oriental Silks in Medieval Europe. Riggisberger Berichte, 21, 92–123.Google Scholar
Jacoby, D. (2008). Silk Production. In Jeffreys, E., Haldon, J. and Cormack, R., eds., The Oxford Handbook of Byzantine Studies. Oxford: Oxford University Press, pp. 421–428.Google Scholar
Jacoby, D. (2004). Silk Economics and Cross-Cultural Artistic Interaction: Byzantium, the Muslim World, and the Christian West. Dumbarton Oaks Papers, 58, 197–240. www.jstor.org/stable/3591386.Google Scholar
Jacoby, D. (1991–92). Silk in Western Byzantium before the Fourth Crusade. Byzantinische Zeitschrift, 84/85, 470–488.Google Scholar
Jeroussalimskaja, A. (1993). Soieries sassanides. In Splendeur des Sassanides: L’empire perse entre Rome et la Chine. Brussels: Musees royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, pp. 113–120.Google Scholar
Kadoi, Y. (2009). Islamic Chinoiserie: The Art of Mongol Iran. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press.Google Scholar
Kelley, A. (2022). Searching for Professional Women in the Mid- to Late-Roman Textile Industry. Past & Present, 258(1), 3–43. https://academic.oup.com/past/article/258/1/3/6652269.Google Scholar
Kelley, A. (2019). By Land or by Sea: Tracing the Adoption of Cotton in the Economies of the Mediterranean. In M. Ivanova and H. Jeffries, eds., Transmitting and Circulating the Late Antique and Byzantine Worlds. Leiden: Brill, pp. 274–297.Google Scholar
Kinoshita, S. (2004). Almería and the French Feudal Imaginary: Toward a “Material” History of the Medieval Mediterranean. In Burns, J., ed., Medieval Fabrications: Dress, Textiles, Clothwork, and Other Cultural Imaginings. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 165–176.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Kirby, J. (2014), Natural Colourants for Dyeing and Lake Pigments: Practical Recipes and their Historical Sources. London: Archetype.Google Scholar
Krody, S. (2019). Comfort at Home. In Bühl, G., Krody, S., and Williams, E. Dospěl, eds., Woven Interiors: Furnishing Early. Medieval Egypt. Washington, DC: The Textile Museum, pp. 80–87, https://museum2.drupal.gwu.edu/sites/g/files/zaxdzs3226/f/Woven%20Interiors%20Catalogue.pdf.Google Scholar
Kuhn, D. (1984). Tracing a Chinese Legend: In Search of the Identity of the “First Sericulturalist.” T’oung Pao, 70, 213–245.Google Scholar
Kuhn, D. and Zhao, F., eds. (2012). Chinese Silks. New Haven: Yale University Press.Google Scholar
Kwaspen, A. and Verhecken-Lammens, C. (2015). Measurements and Fitting of Egyptian Children’s Tunics of the 1st Millennium AD. In De Moor, A., Fluck, C., and Linscheid, P., eds., Textiles, Tools and Techniques: Proceedings of the 8th Conference of the Research Group ‘Textiles from the Nile Valley,” 4-6 October 2013. Tielt: Lannoo, pp. 152–167.Google Scholar
Lamm, C. (1937). Cotton in Mediaeval Textiles of the Near East. Paris: P. Geuthner.Google Scholar
Levy-Rubin, M. (2011). Non-Muslims in the Early Islamic Empire: From Surrender to Coexistence. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Lingley, K. A. (2010). Naturalizing the Exotic: On the Changing Meanings of Ethnic Dress in Medieval China. Ars Orientalis, 38, 50–80.Google Scholar
Liu, X. (2010). The Silk Road in World History. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Lo, J. (2012). China as a Sea Power, 1127–1368: A Preliminary Survey of the Maritime Expansion and Naval Exploits of the Chinese People during the Southern Song and Yuan Periods. Singapore: NUS Press.Google Scholar
Lopez, R. S. (1945). Silk Industry in the Byzantine Empire. Speculum, 20(1), 1–42. www.jstor.org/stable/2851187.Google Scholar
Luyster, A. (2021). Reassembling Textile Networks: Treasuries and Re-Collecting Practices in Thirteenth-Century England. Speculum, 96(4), 1039–1078.Google Scholar
Mack, R. (2001). Bazaar to Piazza: Islamic Trade and Italian Art, 1300-1600. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Mackie, L. W. (2015). Symbols of Power: Luxury Textiles from Islamic Lands, 7th-21st Century. Cleveland: Cleveland Museum of Art and Yale University Press.Google Scholar
Mackie, L. W. (1984). Toward an Understanding of Mamluk Silks: National and International Considerations. Muqarnas, 2, 127–146.Google Scholar
Maguire, E. D. (2019). Curtains at the Threshold: How They Hung and How They Performed. In Bühl, G. and Dospěl Williams, E., eds., Catalogue of the Textiles in the Dumbarton Oaks Byzantine Collection. Washington, DC: Dumbarton Oaks, www.doaks.org/resources/textiles/essays/maguire.Google Scholar
Maniatis, G (1999). Organization, Market Structure, and Modus Operandi of the Private Silk Industry in Tenth-Century Byzantium. Dumbarton Oaks Papers, 53, 236–332. www.jstor.org/stable/1291804.Google Scholar
Martin, T., ed. (2020). The Medieval Iberian Treasury in the Context of Cultural Interchange (Expanded Edition). Leiden: Brill, https://brill.com/view/title/57009?rskey=17nl7N&result=1.Google Scholar
Martiniani-Reber, M. (1999). Tentures et textiles des églises romaines au haut Moyen Âge d’après le Liber pontificalis. Mélanges de l’école française de Rome, 111(1), 289–305.Google Scholar
McWilliams, M. and Sokoly, J., eds. (2022). Social Fabrics: Inscribed Textiles from Medieval Egyptian Tombs. Cambridge, MA: Harvard Art Museums.Google Scholar
Metcalfe, A. and Rosser-Owen, M.. (2013). Forgotten Connections? Medieval Material Culture and Exchange in the Central and Western Mediterranean. al-Masāq: Journal of the Medieval Mediterranean, 25(1), 1–8. https://doi.org/10.1080/09503110.2013.767010.Google Scholar
Monnas, L. (2010). The Impact of Oriental Silks on Italian Silk Weaving in the Fourteenth Century. In Saurma-Jeltsch, L. E. and Eisenbeiß, A., eds., The Power of Things and the Flow of Cultural Transformations. Berlin and Munich: Deutscher Kunstverlag, pp. 65–83.Google Scholar
Monnas, L. (2008). Merchants, Princes, and Painters: Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300-1500. New Haven: Yale University Press.Google Scholar
Mühlemann, C. (2022). Made in Baghdad? Medieval Textile Production and Pattern Notation Systems of Early Woven Lampas Silks. Muqarnas, 39, 1–21.Google Scholar
Mühlemann, C. (2017). Inscribed Horizontal Bands on Two Cloth-of-Gold Panels and Their Function as Part of an Īlkḫānid Dress. Ars Orientalis, 47, 43–68.Google Scholar
Munroe, N. H. (2012). Early Islamic Textiles: Inscribed Garment. The Metropolitan Museum of Art Blog, July 2, 2012, www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2012/byzantium-and-islam/blog/topical-essays/posts/inscribed-garments.Google Scholar
Muthesius, A. (1997). Byzantine Silk Weaving, AD 400 to AD 1200. Vienna: Verlag Fassbaender.Google Scholar
Muthesius, A. (1995). The Impact of the Mediterranean Silk Trade on Western Europe before 1200 AD. In Muthesius, A., ed., Studies in Byzantine and Islamic Silk Weaving. London: The Pindar Press, pp. 135–143.Google Scholar
Muthesius, A. (1992). Silken Diplomacy. In Shepard, J. and Franklin, S., eds., Byzantine Diplomacy: Papers from the Twenty-fourth Spring Symposium of Byzantine Studies, Cambridge March 1990, Aldershot: Ashgate, pp. 237–248.Google Scholar
Nagel, A. (2011). Twenty-Five Notes on Pseudoscript in Italian Art. RES, 59–60, 229–248, www.jstor.org/stable/23647792.Google Scholar
Nosch, M.-L., Zhao, F., and Varadarajan, L., eds., (2014). Global Textile Encounters. Oxford: Oxbow Books.Google Scholar
Oepen, J., Päffgen, B., Schrenk, S., Tegtmeier, U., eds. (2011). Die Textilien aus dem hölzernen Schrein in St. Severin: Der hl. Severin von Köln. Befunde der Schreinsöffnung von 1999. Studien zur Kölner Kirchengeschichte 37. Siegburg: Schmitt.Google Scholar
Ohta, A. (2021). Looking Inside the Book: Doublures of the Mamluk Period. In Hillenbrand, R., ed. The Making of Islamic Art: Studies in Honour of Sheila Blair and Jonathan Bloom. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, pp. 184–206.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Oikonomides, N. (1986). Silk Trade and Production in Byzantium from the Sixth to the Ninth Century: The Seals of Kommerkiarioi. Dumbarton Oaks Papers, 40, 33–51, www.jstor.org/stable/1291528.Google Scholar
Otavsky, K. (1997). Remarques techniques concernant des tissus égyptiens, perses et ibériques de la Abegg., Fondation In Salīm, M. ʿA. M., ed., Islamische Textilkunst des Mittelalters: Aktuelle Probleme. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, pp. 147–156.Google Scholar
Parani, M. G. (2019). Curtains in the Middle and Late Byzantine House. Dumbarton Oaks Papers, In G. Bühl and E. Dospěl Williams, eds. Catalogue of the Textiles in the Dumbarton Oaks Byzantine Collection. Washington, DC: Dumbarton Oaks, https://www.doaks.org/resources/textiles/essays/parani.Google Scholar
Partearroyo, C. (1992). Almoravid and Almohad Textiles. In Dodds, J. D., ed., Al-Andalus: The Art of Islamic Spain. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, pp. 105–106.Google Scholar
Pentcheva, B. V. (2015). The Power of Glittering Materiality: Mirror Reflections Between Poetry and Architecture in Greek and Arabic Medieval Culture. Ancient Near Eastern Studies, Supplementa, 47, 223–268.Google Scholar
Phillips, A. (2021). Sea Change: Ottoman Textiles Between the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Phipps, E. (2011). Looking at Textiles: A Guide to Technical Terms. Los Angeles: The J. Paul Getty Museum.Google Scholar
Piltz, E. (2013). Loros and Sakkos. Studies in Byzantine Imperial Garment and Ecclesiastical Vestment. Oxford: Archaeopress.Google Scholar
Pleşa, A. D. (2017). Religious Belief in Burial: Funerary Dress and Practice at the Late Antique and Early Islamic Cemeteries at Matmar and Mostagedda, Egypt (Late Fourth–-Early Ninth Centuries CE). Ars Orientalis, 47, 18–42, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/a/ars/13441566.0047.002/.Google Scholar
Pritchard, F. (2006). Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD. Manchester: Whitworth Art Gallery.Google Scholar
Ptak, R. (1998). From Quanzhou to the Sulu Zone and Beyond: Questions Related to the Early Fourteenth Century. Journal of Southeast Asian Studies, 29(2), 269–294.Google Scholar
Redford, S. (2012). Portable Palaces: On the Circulation of Objects and Ideas about Architecture in Medieval Anatolia and Mesopotamia. Medieval Encounters, 18, 382–412.Google Scholar
Ritter, M. (2010). Kunst mit Botschaft: Der Gold-Seide-Stoff für den Ilchan Abū Saʿīd von Iran (Grabgewand Rudolfs IV. in Wien) – Rekonstruktion, Typus, Repräsentationsmedium. In Ritter, M. and Korn, L., eds., Beiträge zur Islamischen Kunst und Archäologie herausgegegeben von der Ernst-Herzfeld-Gesellschaft. Wiesbaden: Ludwig Reichert Verlag, vol. 2, pp. 105–135.Google Scholar
Robinson, C. (2018). Tents of Silk and Trees of Light in the Lands of the Najd. In Frishkopf, M. and Spinetti, F., ed., Music, Sound, and Architecture in Islam. Austin: University of Texas Press, pp. 199–122.Google Scholar
Rooijakkers, C. T. (2017). New Styles, New Fashions: Dress in Early Byzantine and Islamic Egypt (5th – 8th centuries). In Amirav, H. and Celia, F., eds., New Themes, New Styles in the Eastern Mediterranean: Christian, Jewish, and Islamic Encounters (5th-8th Centuries). Leuven: Peeters, pp. 173–203.Google Scholar
Rosenfeld, Y. (2016). Indian Block-Printed Textiles: Past and Present. Metropolitan Museum Blog, November 15, 2016, www.metmuseum.org/blogs/ruminations/2016/indian-block-printed-textiles.Google Scholar
Rosser-Owen, M. (2015). Islamic Objects in Christian Contexts: Relic Translation and Modes of Transfer in Medieval Iberia. Art in Translation 7(1), 39–63, https://doi.org/10.2752/175613115X14235644692275.Google Scholar
Saba, M. D. (2012). Abbasid Lusterwares and the Aesthetics of ‘Ajab, Muqarnas, 29, 187–212.Google Scholar
Sanders, P. (2001). Robes of Honor in Fatimid Egypt. In Gordon, S., ed., Robes and Honor: The Medieval World of Investiture. New York: Palgrave, pp. 225–240.Google Scholar
Sanders, P. (1994). Ritual, Politics, and the City in Fatimid Cairo. Saratoga Springs: State University of New York Press.Google Scholar
Schorta, R. (2010). Die Stoffe in den Hildesheimer Schreinen: Zu Textilien im Reliquienkult und zu Luxusgeweben im hochmittelalterlichen Europa. Cologne: Sigurd Greven Stiftung.Google Scholar
Schulz, V.-S. (2018). Schriftgestöber und geritztes Gold. Orientalisierende Inschriften in der toskanischen Tafelmalerei um 1300. In Keil, W. E., Kiyanrad, S., Theis, C. and Willer, L., eds., Zeichentragende Artefakte im sakralen Raum zwischen Präsenz und UnSichtbarkeit. Berlin: DeGruyter, pp. 215–244, https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110619928-010.Google Scholar
Schulz, V.-S. (2016). Crossroads of Cloth: Textile Arts and Aesthetics in and beyond the Medieval Islamic World. Perspective: Actualité en histoire de l’art, 1, 93–108.Google Scholar
Sciacca, C. (2007). Raising the Curtain on the Use of Textiles in Manuscripts. In Rudy, K. M. and Baert, B., eds., Weaving, Veiling, and Dressing: Textiles and Their Metaphors in the Late Middle Ages, Turnhout: Brepols, pp. 161–189.Google Scholar
Serjeant, R. B. (1972). Islamic Textiles: Material for a History up to the Mongol Conquest. Beirut: Librairie du Liban.Google Scholar
Shalem, A. (2019). “You Carried the Moon in the Folds of Your Sleeve”: A Note on Wide-Sleeved Garments from Arabic Sources. Zeitschrift des Deutschen Vereins für Kunstwissenschaft (Opus: Festschrift für Rainer Kahsnitz), 71, 57–72.Google Scholar
Shalem, A., ed. (2017). The Chasuble of Thomas Becket: A Biography. Munich: Hirmer.Google Scholar
Shalem, A. (2015). The Body of Architecture: The Early History of the Clothing of the Sacred House of the Ka‘ba in Mecca. In Kapustka, M. and Woodfin, W. T., eds., Clothing the Sacred: Medieval Textiles as Fabric, Form, and Metaphor. Berlin: Edition Imorde, pp. 173–188.Google Scholar
Shalem, A. (2006). Manipulations of Seeing and Visual Strategies in the Audience Halls of the Early Islamic Period. In Bauer, F. A., ed., Visualisierungen von Herrschaft: Frühmittelalterliche Residenzen; Gestalt und Zeremoniell; Internationales Kolloquium 3./4. Juni 2004 in Istanbul. Istanbul: Ege Yayınları, pp. 213–232.Google Scholar
Shea, E. L. (2021a). Chinese Textiles in Mamluk Tombs: Maritime Trade and Cultural Exchange in the Fourteenth Century. In Dalal, R., Roberts, S., and Sokoly, J., eds., The Seas and the Mobility of Islamic Art. New Haven: Yale University Press, pp. 102–117.Google Scholar
Shea, E. L. (2021b). The Spread of Gold Thread in the Mongol Period. Journal of Song Yuan Studies, 50, 381–415.Google Scholar
Shea, E. L. (2020). Mongol Court Dress, Identity Formation, and Global Exchange. New York: Routledge.Google Scholar
Shea, E. L. (2018). Painted Silks: Form and Production of Women’s Court Dress in the Mongol Empire. The Textile Museum Journal, 45, 36–55.Google Scholar
Shepherd, D. G. (1957). A Dated Hispano-Islamic Silk. Ars Orientalis, 2, 373–382, www.jstor.org/stable/4629043.Google Scholar
Sigl, J. (2020). Egyptian Pit-looms from the Late First Millennium AD – Attempts in Reconstruction from the Archaeological Evidence. In Mossakowska-Gaubert, M., ed., Egyptian Textiles and their Production: “Word” and “Object” (Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine Periods). Lincoln, NE: Zea Books, pp. 22–35.Google Scholar
Sokoly, J. A. (1997). Between Life and Death: The Funerary Context of Ṭirāz Textiles. In Salim, M. A. M., ed., Islamische Textilkunst des Mittelalters: Aktuelle Probleme. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, pp. 71–77.Google Scholar
Spuhler, F. (2014). Pre-Islamic Carpets and Textiles from Eastern Lands. London: Thames & Hudson.Google Scholar
Stauffer, A. (2008). Antike Musterblätter: Wirkkartons aus dem spätantiken und frühbyzantinischen Ägypten. Wiesbaden: Reichert Verlag.Google Scholar
Stauffer, A. (2016). Die kostbaren Hüllen der Heiligen – Textile Schätze aus Kölner Reliquienschreinen: Neue Funde und Forschungen. Colonia Romanica: Jahrbuch des Fördervereins Romanische Kirchen Köln e.V., 31. Cologne: Grevas.Google Scholar
Stephenson, J. W. (2014). Veiling the Late Roman House. Textile History, 45(1), 3–31, https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496914Z.00000000035.Google Scholar
Stillman, Y. K. (2000). Arab Dress. A Short History from the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Leiden: Brill.Google Scholar
Stillman, Y. K., Sanders, P., and Rabbat, N. (2012). Ṭirāz. In Encyclopaedia of Islam, 2nd ed., eds. Bearman, P., Bianquis, Th., Bosworth, C. E., van Donzel, E., Heinrichs, W. P.. Consulted online on September 22, 2021, http://dx.doi.org.ezp-prod1.hul.harvard.edu/10.1163/1573-3912_islam_COM_1228. First published online: 2012.Google Scholar
Sullivan, A. (2021). Byzantine Artistic Traditions in Moldavian Church Embroideries. Cahiers Balkaniques, 48, 125–162.Google Scholar
Susmann, N. (2020). Tyrian, True, Royal, or Real: Archaeological Assumptions about the Roman Murex Dye Industry. Journal of Eastern Mediterranean Archaeology and Heritage Studies, 8(2), 159–173, www.muse.jhu.edu/article/758410.Google Scholar
Tezcan, H. (2006). Osmanlı Sarayının Çocukları: Şehzadeler ve Hanım Sultanların Yaşamları, Giysileri. Istanbul: Aygaz.Google Scholar
Theologou, J., Ozoline, A., and Sarzetakis, Y. (2008). Fustat Carpet Fragments. Hali, 156, 65–71.Google Scholar
Thomas, T. K. (2017). Perspectives on the Wide World of Luxury in Later Antiquity: Silk and other Exotic Textiles found in Syria and Egypt. In Hildebrandt, B. and Gills, C.. Silk: Trade & Exchange along the Silk Roads between Rome and China in Antiquity. Oxford: Oxbow Books, pp. 51–81, https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvh1dsv4.9.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Thomas, T. K. ed. (2016). Designing Identity: The Power of Textiles in Late Antiquity. Exhibition Catalogue, Institute for the Study of the Ancient World, New York. Princeton: Princeton University Press.Google Scholar
Thomas, T. K. (2012). Silks. In Evans, H. and Ratliff, B., eds., Byzantium and Islam: Age of Transition, 7th–9th Century. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, p. 148.Google Scholar
Thomas, T. K. (2009). Coptic Textiles in the Dikran G. Kelekian Textile Album of c. 1910. In Alchermes, J. D., ed., Αναθέματα εορτικά: Studies in Honor of Thomas F. Mathews. Mainz: Philipp von Zabern, pp. 303–312.Google Scholar
Trilling, J. (1985). The Medallion Style: A Study in the Origins of Byzantine Taste. New York: Garland.Google Scholar
Tronzo, W. (2001). The Mantle of Roger II of Sicily. In Gordon, S., ed., Robes and Honor: The Medieval World of Investiture. New York: Palgrave, pp. 241–254.Google Scholar
Van der Vliet, J. (2006). “In a Robe of Gold”: Status, Magic and Politics on Inscribed Christian Textiles from Egypt. In Fluck, C. and Helemecke, G., eds., Textile Messages: Inscribed Fabrics from Roman to Abbasid Egypt. Leiden: Brill, pp. 23–67.Google Scholar
von Verschuer, C. (2008). Le costume de Heian. Cipango: Cahier d’études japonaises, Hors-série, Autour du Genji monogatari, Online edition February 28, 2012, accessed April 30, 2019, http://journals.openedition.org/cipango/1029 ; DOI : 10.4000/cipango.1029.Google Scholar
Vryzidis, N. (2020). The Hidden Life of Textiles in the Medieval and Early Modern Mediterranean: Contexts and Cross-Cultural Encounters in the Islamic, Latinate and Eastern Christian Worlds. Turnhout: Brepols.Google Scholar
Vryzidis, N. (2019a). Ottoman Textiles and Greek Clerical Vestments: Prolegomena on a Neglected Aspect of Ecclesiastical Material Culture. Byzantine and Modern Greek Studies, 42(1), 92–114, https://doi.org/10.1017/byz.2017.22.Google Scholar
Vryzidis, N. (2019b). The “Arabic” Stole of Vatopediou Monastery: Traces of Islamic Material Culture in Late Byzantium. Muqarnas, 36, 85–100.Google Scholar
Wagner, S. (2002). The Impact of Silk on Ottonian and Salian Manuscripts. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. Textile Society of America, https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/554/.Google Scholar
Walker, A. (2012). “The Art that Does Not Think”: Byzantine “Decorative Arts” – History and Limits of a Concept. Studies in Iconography, 34, 169–193.Google Scholar
Walker, A. (2010). Patterns of Flight: Middle Byzantine Appropriation of the Chinese Feng-Huang Bird. Ars Orientalis, 38, 188–216.Google Scholar
Wang, P. (2000). Aching for Beauty: Footbinding in China. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press.Google Scholar
Wardwell, A. E. (1988–89). Panni Tartarici: Eastern Islamic Silks Woven with Gold and Silver (13th and 14th centuries). Islamic Art, 3, 94–147.Google Scholar
Wardwell, A. E. and Watt, J. C. Y. (1988). When Silk Was Gold: Central Asian and Chinese Textiles. New York: Harry N. Abrams.Google Scholar
Weddigen, T. (2013). Notes from the Field: Materiality. Art Bulletin, 95(1), 34–37, www.jstor.org/stable/43188793.Google Scholar
Wertz, J., Winter, M., Hanson, R., and Montague, M. (2022). Beyond the Surface: Technical Analysis of Egyptian Textiles, c. 4th-12th Centuries. In McWilliams, M. and Sokoly, J., eds., Social Fabrics: Inscribed Textiles from Medieval Egyptian Tombs. Cambridge, MA: Harvard Art Museums, pp. 51–61.Google Scholar
Wetter, E., Starkey, K., and Auberson, L., eds. (2019). Animals in Text and Textile: Storytelling in the Medieval World. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung.Google Scholar
Wild, J.-P. and Wild, F. (2014). Berenike and Textile Trade on the Indian Ocean. In Droß-Krüpe, K., ed., Textile Trade and Distribution in Antiquity. Textilhandel und -distribution in der Antike. Wiesbaden: Harrassowitz Verlag, pp. 91–109.Google Scholar
Willers, D. and Niekamp, B. (2015). Der Dionysosbehang der Abegg-Stiftung. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung.Google Scholar
Winter, M. L. (2020). When Curtains Fall: A Shape-Shifting Silk of the Late Abbasid Period. The Medieval Globe, 6(1), 31–55.Google Scholar
Winter, M. L. (2018). Put a Bird on It: What an Aviary Preoccupation Reveals about Medieval Silks. The Textile Museum Journal, 45, 61–83.Google Scholar
Wipszycka, E. (1965). L’industrie textile dans l’Egypte romaine. Wrocław: Zakład Narodowy im. Ossolińskich.Google Scholar
Woodfin, W. T. (2021). Textile Media. In Schwartz, E., ed., The Oxford Handbook of Byzantine Art and Architecture. Oxford: Oxford University Press, pp. 593–606, https://doi.org/10.1093/oxfordhb/9780190277352.013.46.Google Scholar
Woodfin, W. T. (2012). The Embodied Icon: Liturgical Vestments and Sacramental Power in Byzantium. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Woodfin, W. T. (2010). Celestial Hierarchies and Earthly Hierarchies in the Art of the Byzantine Church. In Stephenson, P., ed., The Byzantine World. London: Routledge, pp. 303–319.Google Scholar
Woodfin, W. T. (2004). Liturgical Textiles. In Evans, H., ed., Byzantium: Faith and Power (1261-1557). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, pp. 295–323.Google Scholar
Woodward Wendelken, R. (2014). Wefts and Worms: The Spread of Sericulture and Silk Weaving in the West before 1300. In Netherton, R. and Owen-Crocker, G., Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Woodbridge: Boydell Press, pp. 59–77.Google Scholar
Wouters, J. (1995). Dye Analysis in a Broad Perspective: A Study of 3rd- to 10th-Century Coptic Textiles from Belgian Private Collections. Dyes in History and Archaeology, 13, 38–45.Google Scholar
Xu, J. (2019). The Funerary Couch of An Jia and the Art of Sogdian Immigrants in Sixth-Century China. The Burlington Magazine, 10, 820–829.Google Scholar
Yarza Luaces, J. (1999). Un cycle de fresques romanes dans la paroisse de Santa María de Taüll. Les cahiers de Saint-Michel de Cuxa, 30, 121–140.Google Scholar
Zhao, F., Sardjono, S., and Buckley, C. (2019). A World of Looms: Weaving Technology and Textile Arts. Hangzhou: Zhejiang University Press.Google Scholar

Save element to Kindle

To save this element to your Kindle, first ensure [email protected] is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

Medieval Textiles across Eurasia, c. 300–1400
Available formats
×

Save element to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

Medieval Textiles across Eurasia, c. 300–1400
Available formats
×

Save element to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

Medieval Textiles across Eurasia, c. 300–1400
Available formats
×