Published online by Cambridge University Press: 31 January 2023
The concepts of sea state and of short-term and long-term statistics are introduced. Wave by wave and spectral analyses are described; definitions are given of wave spectrum, significant wave height, mean wave period, and narrowness parameter. Theoretical distributions of wave heights (the Rayleigh law) are derived. The concept of return period is introduced. The other environmental parameters considered are the wind, the current, the internal waves, and the marine growth. The different definitions of mean wind velocity are explained. Typical wind profiles and wind spectra are presented.
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