Yuste, 19 May 2007. Our journey began that morning in Valladolid. The itinerary took us south through the cities and villages of Old Castile – Medina del Campo, Peñaranda, Alaraz, Gallegos, Barco de Ávila – retracing the route taken by Charles V in 1556 as he made his way toward retirement in Spain. At Puerta de Tornavacas, the wind-swept high plains seemed to disappear, the road began to climb, and we suddenly found ourselves crossing the Sierra de Tormantos. As we navigated the treacherous pass through the mountains along narrow gorges and past sparkling waterfalls, dense fog obscured our view. But as we descended, the beautiful and peaceful valley of La Vera appeared before our eyes, and the rocky landscape gave way to cherry trees, giant oaks, and chestnuts. The orange trees held both blossoms and ripened fruit, roses bloomed along the roadway, and now we had arrived at our destination, the Monasterio de Yuste and the Palacio del Emperador Carlos V.

Charles V chose this remote corner of Extremadura for his retirement, amid the walnut, almond, and fig trees for which the area was renowned, but far from the centers of imperial power. Built on a hill, the palace adjoined the Hieronymite monastery and overlooked the valley. The royal apartments were constructed so that Charles was able to see the High Altar of the monastery chapel from the doorway of his chamber, and when bedridden, follow the celebration of mass. It was here that he died on 21 September 1558.