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12 - ‘A New Source of Happiness to Man’? : Maple Sugaring and Settler Colonialism in the Early Modern Atlantic World

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 November 2024

Madeline Bassnett
Affiliation:
Western University, Ontario
Hillary Nunn
Affiliation:
University of Akron, Ohio
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Summary

Abstract

This essay will look at how cooking becomes manufacturing in eighteenthcentury North America. The paper's focus is ‘Remarks on the Manufacturing of Maple Sugar’, an extended recipe that appeared in American and English periodicals, in the Nova Scotia Magazine, and as a pamphlet in London and Philadelphia in 1790–1791. With the stated goals of efficiency, profit, replicability, and patriotism, the instructions seek to deploy the techniques and ethos of cane sugar refining in the making of maple sugar. The ‘Remarks’ and the short-lived efforts of the Pennsylvanian settlers behind the text illustrate manufacturing's ties to settler colonialism: in the recipe's documentation of settlers’ adoption of Indigenous knowledge in ways that erase the presence of Indigenous peoples in their territories and in the overt use of maple sugar manufacturing to further settler claims to that land.

Keywords: settler colonialism, maple sugar, Indigenous knowledge, Mi’kmaki, Nova Scotia, Pennsylvania

Interested in the conceptual and economic distinction between manufacturing and cooking, this essay looks at one attempt to encourage the manufacturing of maple sugar in the settler colonial context of the early modern Atlantic world. If cooking is characterized by the transformation of raw materials into more palatable (and safe) food through the application of heat (by boiling, simmering, steaming, poaching, roasting, grilling, frying, or baking, for example), manufacturing might be defined by the deployment of these techniques on a larger scale, one that exceeds the needs of a household for which cooking is done. The labour of cooking in a household is typically undertaken in ways that historically have been marked by social hierarchy (class, race, and gender), age, and physical capacity—as B.W. Higman says, ‘whereas everyone ate, not everyone cooked’. The labour of manufacturing is often similarly marked, but in manufacturing I would suggest that the scale of creation is expanded not only by large numbers of workers, but also industrial technologies, by what Higman calls ‘crop determinism’ (the technological capacity of particular crops to become monocultures), and capitalism, in the production of food to make a profit in the market.

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In the Kitchen, 1550-1800
Reading English Cooking at Home and Abroad
, pp. 265 - 286
Publisher: Amsterdam University Press
Print publication year: 2022

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