Skip to main content Accessibility help
×
Hostname: page-component-586b7cd67f-l7hp2 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-26T01:15:54.087Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Chapter 23 - Decadence and Popular Culture

from Part III - Applications

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  12 August 2019

Jane Desmarais
Affiliation:
Goldsmiths, University of London
David Weir
Affiliation:
The Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art
Get access

Summary

This chapter examines decadence in terms of the contemporary popular obsession with the practice of self-fashioning through dandyism, drag, or costume as a way of negotiating or overcoming social boundaries, often in a playfully transgressive manner. Glam rock stars of the 1970s represent a modern form of dandyism and camp self-expression, while the aesthetics of opulence and excess take on a more profound significance when considered in terms of social inequality in the drag ball culture of 1980s New York where the aspiration to be ‘real’ is enacted through costumes and cosmetics. Decadence in today’s celebrity culture is exemplified by Lady Gaga’s gender-bending pop performance art, and we can also observe a queer countercultural resistance to the mainstream using the same decadent paradoxes of beauty and decay, artifice and reality. The ‘cult of the self’ may seem superficial, but the process of self-fashioning through clothing and makeup is in fact a process of self-acceptance.

Type
Chapter
Information
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2019

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Aitkenhead, Decca (2018). Drag is a big f-you to male-dominated culture. The Guardian, 3 March, www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/2018/mar/03/rupaul-drag-race-big-f-you-to-male-dominated-culture.Google Scholar
Baudelaire, Charles (1995). The Painter of Modern Life and Other Essays, Mayne, Jonathan, trans., London: Phaidon.Google Scholar
Bauer, Heike (2017). Dead Wilde. In The Hirschfeld Archives: Violence, Death, and Modern Queer Culture, Philadelphia: Temple University Press, pp. 52–6.Google Scholar
Brown, Susanna (2015). Nightmares and Dreams. In Wilcox, Claire, ed., Alexander McQueen, London: V&A Publishing, pp. 285302.Google Scholar
Busby, Mattha (2018). Far-right protesters including man in Trump mask attack socialist bookshop while chanting about Muslims. Independent, 5 July, www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/bookmarks-bookshop-attack-socialist-london-muslims-paedophilia-trump-a8478306.html.Google Scholar
Butler, Judith (1999). Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity, New York: Routledge.Google Scholar
Butler, Judith (2011). Bodies That Matter: On the Discursive Limits of ‘Sex’, Abingdon: Routledge.Google Scholar
Cohen, Ed (1993). Talk on the Wilde Side: Toward a Genealogy of Discourse on Male Sexualities, London: Routledge.Google Scholar
Constable, Liz, Potolsky, Matthew, and Denisoff, Dennis, eds. (1999). Perennial Decay: On the Aesthetics and Politics of Decadence, Pennsylvania: University of Pennsylvania Press.Google Scholar
Daems, Jim, ed. (2014). The Makeup of RuPaul’s Drag Race: Essays on the Queen of Reality Shows, Jefferson, NC: McFarland.Google Scholar
Deflem, Mathieu (2017). Lady Gaga and the Sociology of Fame: The Rise of a Pop Star in the Age of Celebrity, New York: Palgrave Macmillan.Google Scholar
Dollimore, Jonathan (1991). Sexual Dissidence: Augustine to Wilde, Freud to Foucault, Oxford: Clarendon Press.Google Scholar
Dollimore, Jonathan (2017). Desire: A Memoir, London: Bloomsbury.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Frankel, Susannah (2007). The Real McQueen. Harper’s Bazaar, 1 April, www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a68/alexander-mcqueen-0407.Google Scholar
Garelick, Rhonda K. (1998). Rising Star: Dandyism, Gender, and Performance in the Fin de Siècle, Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.Google Scholar
Gautier, Théophile (2005). Mademoiselle de Maupin, Helen Constantine, trans., London: Penguin, 2005.Google Scholar
Gossling, Jessica (2018). ‘Decadent Threshold Poetics: A Comparative Study of Threshold Space in Charles Baudelaire, Joris-Karl Huysmans, Ernest Dowson, and Arthur Symons’, unpublished PhD thesis, Goldsmiths, University of London.Google Scholar
Halberstam, J. Jack (2012). Gaga Feminism: Sex, Gender, and the End of Normal, Boston: Beacon Press.Google Scholar
hooks, bell (2015). Black Looks: Race and Representation, New York: Routledge.Google Scholar
Isherwood, Christopher (1978). Christopher and His Kind, London: Magnum.Google Scholar
Isherwood, Christopher (1998). Goodbye to Berlin, London: Vintage.Google Scholar
Jackson, Holbrook (1914). The Eighteen Nineties: A Review of Art and Ideas at the Close of the Nineteenth Century, New York: Mitchell Kennerley.Google Scholar
Jacobs, Ben, Siddiqui, Sabrina, and Bixby, Scott (2016). ‘You can do anything’: Trump brags on tape about using fame to get women. The Guardian, 8 October, www.theguardian.com/us-news/2016/oct/07/donald-trump-leaked-recording-womenGoogle Scholar
Livingston, Jennie, dir. (1991). Paris Is Burning, Miramax Films.Google Scholar
Mahoney, Kristin (2015). Literature and the Politics of Post-Victorian Decadence, New York: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Moers, Ellen (1960). The Dandy, London: Secker & Warburg.Google Scholar
Morris, Roy, Jr. (2013). Declaring His Genius: Oscar Wilde in North America, Cambridge, MA: Belknap Press.Google Scholar
Nordau, Max (1895). Degeneration, London: William Heinemann.Google Scholar
Paglia, Camille (2010). Lady Gaga and the death of sex. The Times, 12 September, www.thetimes.co.uk/article/lady-gaga-and-the-death-of-sex-lnzbcd70zj3Google Scholar
Reynolds, Simon (2016). Shock and Awe: Glam Rock and its Legacy from the Seventies to the Twenty-First Century, New York: Dey St.Google Scholar
Showalter, Elaine (1990). Sexual Anarchy: Gender and Culture at the Fin de Siècle, New York: Penguin.Google Scholar
Sinfield, Alan (1994). The Wilde Century: Effeminacy, Oscar Wilde, and the Queer Moment, New York: Columbia University Press.Google Scholar
Skelly, Julia (2014). ‘The Paradox of Excess: Oscar Wilde, Caricature, and Consumption’. In The Uses of Excess in Visual and Material Culture, 1600–2010, Skelly, Julia, ed., Farnham: Ashgate, pp. 137–60.Google Scholar
Smith, Zadie (2018). Feel Free: Essays, London: Hamish Hamilton.Google Scholar
Sontag, Susan (2009). ‘Notes on “Camp”’. In Against Interpretation and Other Essays, London: Penguin, pp. 275–92.Google Scholar
St. James, James (1999). Disco Bloodbath: A Fabulous but True Story of Murder in Clubland, New York: Simon & Schuster.Google Scholar
Thorpe, Vanessa (2013). Pop star or avant-garde artist? Lady Gaga wants to be the next Warhol. The Observer, 18 August, www.theguardian.com/music/2013/aug/18/ lady-gaga-artpop-album-avant-gardeCrossRefGoogle Scholar
Unsigned (1895). Notes. National Observer, 6 April.Google Scholar
Waugh, Evelyn (2000). Vile Bodies, London: Penguin.Google Scholar
Weir, David (2017). ‘Afterword: Decadent Taste’. In Decadence and the Senses, Desmarais, Jane and Condé, Alice, eds., Cambridge: Legenda, pp. 219–28.Google Scholar
Weir, David (2018). Decadence: A Very Short Introduction, Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Wilde, Oscar (1989). The Complete Works of Oscar Wilde, New York: Harper & Row.Google Scholar
Wilde, Oscar (2005). The Picture of Dorian Gray. Vol. III of The Complete Works of Oscar Wilde, Bristow, Joseph, ed., Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Williams, Raymond (1983). Culture and Society: 1780–1950, New York: Columbia University Press.Google Scholar

Save book to Kindle

To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure [email protected] is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

Available formats
×

Save book to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

Available formats
×