the most northerly city of Etruria was Luna. It stood, indeed, on the very frontier, on the left bank of the Macra, which formed the north-western boundary of that land. And though at one time in the possession of the Ligurians, together with a wide tract to the south, even down to Pisa and the Arno, yet Luna was originally Etruscan, and as such it was recognised in Imperial times. It was never renowned for size or power; its importance seems to have been derived chiefly from its vast and commodious port, truly “worthy of a people who long held dominion of the sea,” and which is now known as the Gulf of Spezia.

But its size and security are the least of its charms. To the tranquil beauty of a lake it unites the majesty of the sea. No fairer bay could poet sigh for, “to float about the summer-waters.” Never did purer wave mirror more glorious objects. Shining towns—pine-crested convents— luxuriant groves—storm-defying forts—castled-crags— proud headlands—foam-fretted islets — dark heights, prodigal of wine and oil—purple mountains behind,—and naked marble-peaked Apennines over all,

About three miles from Sarzana, on the high-road to Lucca and Pisa, and just before reaching the modern frontier of Carrara, the traveller will have on his right a strip of low grassy land, interveningbetween him and the sea.