Depth-limited overturning wave shape affects water turbulence and sediment suspension. Experiments have shown that wind affects shoaling and overturning wave shape, with uncertain mechanism. Here, we study wind effects (given by the wind Reynolds number) on solitary wave shoaling and overturning with the two-phase direct numerical simulations model Basilisk run in two dimensions on steep bathymetry for fixed wave Reynolds number and Bond number. For all wind, the propagating solitary wave sheds a two-dimensional turbulent air wake and has nearly uniform speed with minimal wave energy changes over the rapidly varying bathymetry. Wave-face slope is influenced by wind, and shoaling wave shape changes are consistent with previous studies. As overturning jet impacts, wind-dependent differences in overturn shape are quantified. The non-dimensional breakpoint location and overturn area have similar wind dependence as previous experience, whereas the overturn aspect ratio has opposite wind dependence. During shoaling, the surface viscous stresses are negligible relative to pressure. Surface tension effects are also small but grow rapidly near overturning. In a wave frame of reference, surface pressure is low in the lee and contributes 2–5 % to the velocity potential rate of change in the surface dynamic boundary condition, which, integrated over time, changes the wave shape. Reasons why the overturn aspect ratio is different than in experiment and why a stronger simulated wind is required are explored. The dramatic wind effects on overturning jet area, and thus to the available overturn potential energy, make concrete the implications of wind-induced changes to wave shape.

This study investigates the influence of surface wave characteristics, specifically wave steepness and directional spreading, on intermittency in deep-water gravity wave turbulence through long-term numerical simulations of three-dimensional potential fully nonlinear periodic gravity waves. We conducted this investigation by estimating the scaling exponent of the surface elevation under different sea state conditions. With our numerical methods, we were able to evaluate the scaling exponents of the structure-function up to 12th order. The observed increased intermittency in directionally narrower sea states and in higher steepness conditions aligns with known effects of quasi-resonant wave–wave interactions and wave breaking. Comparative analyses reveal that both the conventional She–Leveque model and the multifractal models, also used to represent intermittency in wave turbulence of a different nature, exhibit a strong correlation in this study. This observation underscores the universality of intermittency phenomena within wave turbulence.

Even without breaking or wind influence, ocean surface waves are observed to produce turbulence in the water, possibly influencing ocean surface dynamics and air–sea interactions. Based on the water-side free-surface simulations, recent studies suggest that such turbulence is produced through the interaction between the waves and the near-surface Eulerian current associated with the viscous attenuation of waves. To clarify the dynamical role of the air–water interface in the turbulence production, the attenuating interfacial gravity waves were simulated directly using a newly developed two-phase wave-resolving numerical model. The air–water coupling enhanced the wave energy dissipation through the formation of a strong shear at the air-side viscous boundary layer. This led to an enhancement of the wave-to-current momentum transfer and the formation of the down-wave Eulerian mean sheared current, which is favourable for the CL2 instability responsible for the production of Langmuir circulations. As a result, the water-side turbulence grew stronger compared with the corresponding free surface (water-only) wave-resolving simulation. The evolution of the wave-averaged field was well reproduced with the Craik–Leibovich equation with the upper boundary condition provided with the virtual wave stress based on linear theory. The wave energy dissipation by air–water coupling plays a significant role in the quantitative understanding of the wave-induced turbulence at the laboratory and field scales.

The depth-integrated horizontal momentum equations and continuity equation are employed to develop a new model. The vertical velocity and pressure can be expressed exactly in terms of horizontal velocities and free-surface elevation, which are the only unknowns in the model. Dividing the water column into elements and approximating horizontal velocities using linear shape function in each element, a set of model equations for horizontal velocities at element nodes is derived by adopting the weighted residual method. These model equations can be applied for transient or steady free-surface flows by prescribing appropriate lateral boundary conditions and initial conditions. Here, only the wave–current–bathymetry interaction problems are investigated. Theoretical analyses are conducted to examine various linear wave properties of the new models, which outperform the Green–Naghdi-type models for the range of water depth to wavelength ratios and the Boussinesq-type models as they are capable of simulating vertically sheared currents. One-dimensional horizontal numerical models, using a finite-difference method, are applied to a wide range of wave–current–bathymetry problems. Numerical validations are performed for nonlinear Stokes wave and bichromatic wave group propagation in deep water, sideband instability, regular wave transformation over a submerged shoal and focusing wave group interacting with linearly sheared currents in deep water. Very good agreements are observed between numerical results and laboratory data. Lastly, numerical experiments of wave shoaling from deep to shallow water are conducted to further demonstrate the capability of the new model.

Arrays of heaving buoy type wave energy converters (WECs) are a promising contender to harness the renewable power of ocean waves on a commercial scale but require strategies to achieve efficient capture of wave energy over broad frequency bands for economic viability. A WEC-array design is proposed for absorption over a target frequency range in the two-dimensional water wave context by spatially grading the resonant properties of WECs via linear spring–damper power take-off mechanisms. The design is based on theories for rainbow reflection and rainbow absorption, which incorporate analyses based on Bloch wave modes and pole–zero pairs in complex frequency space. In contrast to previous applications of these theories, the influence of a higher-order passband and associated pole–zero pairs are shown to influence absorption at the high-frequency end of the target interval. The theories are used to inform initialisations for optimisation algorithms, and an optimised array of only five WECs is shown to give near-perfect absorption ($\geq$99 %) over the target interval. Broadband absorption is demonstrated when surge and pitch motions are released, for irregular sea states, and for incident wave packets in the time domain, where the time-domain responses are decomposed into Bloch modes to connect with the underlying theory.

The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least qualitatively, this effect has been partially attributed to the ‘rapid’ nature of the shoaling process, i.e. shoaling occurs over a distance far shorter than that required for waves to modulate themselves and adapt to the reduced water depth. Through a theoretical model and highly accurate nonlinear simulations, we disentangle the respective effects of the length and angle of a shoal's slope. We investigate the effects of the shoaling process rapidness on the evolution of key statistical and spectral sea-state parameters. We let the wave field evolve over a slope with constant angle in all cases while we vary the slope length. Our results indicate that the non-equilibrium dynamics is not affected by the slope length, because further extending the slope length does not influence the magnitude of the statistical and spectral measures as long as the non-equilibrium dynamics dominates the wave evolution. Thus, the shoaling effect on rogue waves is deduced to be mainly driven by the slope magnitude rather than the slope length.

To study two-dimensional dispersive waves propagating through turbulent flows, a new and less restrictive fast waves approximation is proposed using a multiscale setting. In this ansatz, large and small scales of the turbulence are treated differently. Correlation lengths of the random small-scale turbulence components can be considered negligible in the wave packet propagating frame. Nevertheless, the large-scale flow can be relatively strong, to significantly impact wavenumbers along the propagating rays. New theoretical results, numerical tools and proxies are derived to describe ray and wave action distributions. All model parameters can be calibrated robustly from the large-scale flow component only. We illustrate our purpose with ocean surface gravity waves propagating in different types of surface currents. The multiscale solution is demonstrated to efficiently document wave trapping effects by intense jets.

Trapped surface waves have been observed in a swimming pool trapped by, and rotating around, the cores of vortices. To investigate this effect, we have numerically studied the free-surface response of a Lamb–Oseen vortex to small perturbations. The fluid has finite depth but is laterally unbounded. The numerical method used is spectrally accurate, and uses a novel non-reflecting buffer region to simulate a laterally unbounded fluid. While a variety of linear waves can arise in this flow, we focus here on surface gravity waves. We investigate the linear modes of the vortex as a function of the perturbation azimuthal mode number and the vortex rotation rate. We find that at low rotation rates, linear modes decay by radiating energy to the far field, while at higher rotation rates modes become nearly neutrally stable and trapped in the vicinity of the vortex. While trapped modes have previously been seen in shallow water surface waves due to small perturbations of a bathtub vortex, the situation considered here is qualitatively different owing to the lack of an inward flow and the dispersive nature of non-shallow-water waves. We also find that for slow vortex rotation rates, trapped waves propagate in the opposite direction to the vortex rotation, whereas, above a threshold rotation rate, waves corotate with the flow.

The particle trajectories in irrotational, incompressible and inviscid deep-water surface gravity waves are open, leading to a net drift in the direction of wave propagation commonly referred to as the Stokes drift, which is responsible for catalysing surface wave-induced mixing in the ocean and transporting marine debris. A balance between phase-averaged momentum density, kinetic energy density and vorticity for irrotational, monochromatic and spatially periodic two-dimensional water waves is derived by working directly within the Lagrangian reference frame, which tracks particle trajectories as a function of their labels and time. This balance should be expected as all three of these quantities are conserved following particles in this system. Vorticity in particular is always conserved along particles in two-dimensional inviscid flow, and as such even in its absence it is the value of the vorticity that fundamentally sets the drift, which in the Lagrangian frame is identified as the phase-averaged momentum density of the system. A relationship between the drift and the geometric mean water level of particles is found at the surface, which highlights connections between the geometry and dynamics. Finally, an example of an initially quiescent fluid driven by a wavelike pressure disturbance is considered, showing how the net momentum and energy from the surface pressure disturbance transfer to the wave field, and recognizing the source of the mean Lagrangian drift as the net momentum required to generate an irrotational surface wave by any conservative force.

When studying two-dimensional fluid–body interactions in the low-Froude limit, traditional asymptotic theory predicts a waveless free surface at every order. The waves are, in fact, exponentially small and it has been well-established that such waves ‘switch on’ seemingly instantaneously across so-called Stokes lines, partitioning the fluid domain into wave-free regions and regions with waves. In three dimensions, the Stokes-line concept extends to higher-dimensional Stokes surfaces. This article is concerned with the archetypal problem of uniform flow over a point source, reminiscent of, but separate to, the famous Kelvin wave problem. In prior research, the intersection of the Stokes surface with the free surface was found, in implicit form, for this case of a point source. However, on account of the algebraic manipulations required, it is not clear how this approach can be extended to more challenging settings. Here we develop a numerical-based procedure that allows the Stokes surface to be computed. The intersections of the Stokes surfaces with both the free surface and the deeper fluid are discussed for the case of the point source. Crucially, this procedure provides an important tool for generalising exponential asymptotics to the case of nonlinear (non-point-source) wave-generating bodies.

The shoreline hazard posed by ocean long waves such as tsunamis and meteotsunamis critically depends on the fraction of energy transmitted across the shallow near-shore shelf. In linear setting, bathymetric inhomogeneities of length comparable to the incident wavelength act as a protective high-pass filter, reflecting long waves and allowing only shorter waves to pass through. Here, we show that, for weakly nonlinear waves, the transmitted energy flux fraction can significantly depend on the amplitude of the incoming wave. The basis of this mechanism is the formation of dispersive shock waves (DSWs), a salient feature of nonlinear evolution of long water waves, often observed in tidal bores and tsunami/meteotsunami evolution. Within the framework of the Boussinesq equations, we show that the DSWs efficiently transfer wave energy into the high wavenumber band, where reflection is negligible. This is phenomenologically similar to self-induced transparency in nonlinear optics: small amplitude long waves are reflected by the bathymetric inhomogeneity, while larger amplitude waves that develop DSWs blueshift into the transparency regime and pass through. We investigate this mechanism in a simplified setting that retains only the key processes of DSW disintegration and reflection, while the effects such as bottom dissipation and breaking are ignored. The results suggests that the phenomenon is a robust, order-one effect. In contrast, the increased transmission due to the growth of bound harmonics associated with the steepening of the wave is weak. The results of the simplified modelling are validated by simulations with the FUNWAVE-TVD Boussinesq model.

The spatial evolution of various statistical parameters of fetch-limited waves generated by steadily blowing wind over mean water flow in a wind-wave flume is investigated experimentally. Measurements are performed in both along- and against-wind current conditions, and compared with measurements in the absence of current. A rake of capacitance-type wave gauges is used to measure surface elevation for a wide range of wind and water current velocities; additionally, an optical wave gauge is used to measure the directional properties of the wind-wave field in the presence of a mean water current at multiple locations. The variation with fetch of essential wave parameters such as characteristic wave energy, dominant frequency, power spectra and temporal coherence, as well as higher-order statistical moments that characterize wave shape, is presented for co- and counter-wind water currents, and compared with the no-current condition. The findings in the presence of mean water flow are interpreted in the framework of the viscous shear flow instability model of Geva & Shemer (Phys. Rev. Lett., vol. 128, 2022, 124501).

The Whitham equation is a non-local, nonlinear partial differential equation that models the temporal evolution of spatial profiles of surface displacement of water waves. However, many laboratory and field measurements record time series at fixed spatial locations. To directly model data of this type, it is desirable to have equations that model the spatial evolution of time series. The spatial Whitham (sWhitham) equation, proposed as the spatial generalization of the Whitham equation, fills this need. In this paper, we study this equation and apply it to water-wave experiments on shallow and deep water. We compute periodic travelling-wave solutions to the sWhitham equation and examine their properties, including their stability. Results for small-amplitude solutions align with known results for the Whitham equation. This suggests that the systems are consistent in the weakly nonlinear regime. At larger amplitudes, there are some discrepancies. Notably, the sWhitham equation does not appear to admit cusped solutions of maximal wave height. In the second part, we compare predictions from the temporal and spatial Korteweg–de Vries and Whitham equations with measurements from laboratory experiments. We show that the sWhitham equation accurately models measurements of tsunami-like waves of depression, waves of elevation, and solitary waves on shallow water. Its predictions also compare favourably with experimental measurements of waves of depression and elevation on deep water. Accuracy is increased by adding a phenomenological damping term. Finally, we show that neither the sWhitham nor the temporal Whitham equation accurately models the evolution of wave packets on deep water.

We consider steady surface waves in an infinitely deep two-dimensional ideal fluid with potential flow, focusing on high-amplitude waves near the steepest wave with a 120$^{\circ }$ corner at the crest. The stability of these solutions with respect to coperiodic and subharmonic perturbations is studied, using new matrix-free numerical methods. We provide evidence for a plethora of conjectures on the nature of the instabilities as the steepest wave is approached, especially with regards to the self-similar recurrence of the stability spectrum near the origin of the spectral plane.

Two-dimensional free-surface flow over localised topography is examined, with the emphasis on the stability of hydraulic-fall solutions. A Gaussian topography profile is assumed with a positive or negative amplitude modelling a bump or a dip, respectively. Steady hydraulic-fall solutions to the full incompressible, irrotational Euler equations are computed, and their linear and nonlinear stability is analysed by computing eigenspectra of the pertinent linearised operator and by solving an initial value problem. The computations are carried out numerically using a specially developed computational framework based on the finite-element method. The Hamiltonian structure of the problem is demonstrated, and stability is determined by computing eigenspectra of the pertinent linearised operator. It is found that a hydraulic-fall flow over a bump is spectrally stable. The corresponding flow over a dip is found to be linearly unstable. In the latter case, time-dependent simulations show that ultimately, the flow settles into a time-periodic motion that corresponds to an invariant solution in an appropriately defined phase space. Physically, the solution consists of a localised large-amplitude wave that pulsates above the dip while simultaneously emitting nonlinear cnoidal waves in the upstream direction and multi-harmonic linear waves in the downstream direction.

The $k^{-23/6}$ wave action spectrum with an inverse cascade is one of the fundamental Kolmogorov–Zakharov solutions for gravity wave turbulence, which is part of the citation for the Dirac Medal in 2003. Instead of confirming this solution, however, several existing simulations and experiments suggest a spectrum of $k^{-3}$ in set-ups corresponding to the inverse cascade. We provide a theoretical explanation for the latter, considering the condensate that naturally forms in finite domains of experiments/simulations. Our new theory hinges on: (1) derivation of a spectral diffusion equation when non-local interactions with the condensate become dominant, for the first time systematically formulated for quartet-interaction systems; and (2) careful analysis of the asymptotics of interaction coefficient with a remarkable cancellation of all leading-order terms.

Resonant standing waves excited on the water surface in a deep narrow rectangular cavity by a fully immersed cylinder harmonically oscillating in the vertical direction are studied theoretically and experimentally. The effect of the finite wavemaker size is considered in the framework of the potential two-dimensional flow theory. Nonlinearities and weak dissipation at solid surfaces are accounted for. The spatio-temporal structure of the waves in the presence of detuning between the forcing and the natural frequency of the system is analysed. The variation of the surface shape in space and time studied in experiments supports the assumption of two-dimensional flow. The finite size of the wavemaker causes a downshift of the effective resonant frequency of the cavity; this effect is enhanced by the nonlinearity. For small amplitude waves, the surface elevation evolution in time is decomposed into the sum of the time-periodic function, corresponding to the forcing frequency, and its second harmonic; the shape of the wavenumber spectra of these components depends on the forcing frequency. For larger wave amplitudes, additional peaks in the frequency spectrum appear. The theoretical predictions are compared with the experimental results.

This study investigates the potential use of an active device to efficiently absorb water waves propagating in a channel. The active device comprises a dipole source consisting of two sources in quasi-opposition of phase. We explore the feasibility of this approach to achieve perfect absorption of guided waves through interference phenomena. To accomplish this, we establish the law governing the waves emitted by the dipole source to optimize the absorption of specific incident waves. The validity of this law is demonstrated through numerical simulations and laboratory experiments, encompassing both the harmonic and transient regimes of the experimental set-up.

In this work, formal asymptotic solutions of a problem for linear water waves in a bounded basin are constructed. The solutions have the form of asymptotic quasimodes and are used for the description of standing water waves localised near the shoreline. Such short-wavelength quasimodes exist only for a discrete set of frequencies, which are determined by means of a quantisation-type condition. Some numerical results are also addressed.

A theory is presented for wave-driven propulsion of floating bodies driven into oscillation at the fluid interface. By coupling the equations of motion of the body to a quasipotential flow model of the fluid, we derive expressions for the drift speed and propulsive thrust of the body which in turn are shown to be consistent with global momentum conservation. We explore the efficacy of our model in describing the motion of SurferBot (Rhee et al., Bioinspir. Biomim., vol. 17, issue 5, 2022), demonstrating close agreement with the experimentally determined drift speed and oscillatory dynamics. The efficiency of wave-driven propulsion is then computed as a function of driving oscillation frequency and the forcing location, revealing optimal values for both of these parameters which await confirmation in experiments. A comparison with other modes of locomotion and applications of our model with competitive water sports is discussed in conclusion.