THE following pages will make the reader acquainted with the melancholy, and unfortunate, result of an ill-contrived and badly executed, though well intended, expedition to the coast of Africa, in the year 1792: this expedition was proposed and undertaken by a few gentlemen, with a view to ascertain whether or not it were practicable to cultivate tropical productions on the coast of Africa, by means of its free natives. The question of the abolition of the slave trade had, at that time, for four or five years, been violently agitated; and some of those, who were advocates for its continuance, boldly asserted that the Africans were incapable of enjoying freedom, or being in any great degree civilized: and it was thought that this expedition would decide the injustice of such an opinion. Unfortunately however, for the Africans, it was so exceedingly ill conducted, that it was totally given up, ere the latter part of that opinion could be put to the proof; though the former part of it was unequivocally ascertained to be erroneous.

The ill success of this attempt, the report of the numbers killed by the natives, of those who had died from the unhealthiness of the climate, and of the mortality which had taken place on board the ship Hankey, all of which, moreover, were greatly magnified, were sufficient of themselves to deter others from engaging in such an enterprize; and would (if peace had even continued) have prevented those few, who remained upon the island of Bulama, from receiving any considerable reinforcement to their numbers, before the pernicious effects of these exaggerated reports had been considerably weakened. War however took place; and all hope of succouring the few who still kept possession of that island was at an end. Thus, without succour or assistance of any kind, after having maintained their position for nearly a year and a half, they were obliged to abandon the island, and the only two white men left, of those who had sailed on the expedition, returned to Europe.

FROM looking over the map of that part of Africa whose outline is traced in the beginning of Chapter VIII, and from what is there said, it will appear that on the western coast of Africa there is a fertile country, inhabited by various tribes, or nations; bounded by high mountains, two large navigable rivers, and the sea; intersected with many small rivers, with more than 500 miles of navigable coasts for ships of burthen, and many more than a thousand navigable for boats; having on its southern side, one vast, continued, safe and commodious harbour, of more than 100 miles in length from Jatt's island to the mouth of the Rio Grande.

In this great extent of fertile and navigable country, comprized between the rivers Gambia and Grande, there is only one European factory, and that indeed not upon the continent, but upon the island of Bissao, and no attempt has hitherto been made, except our fruitless one, by any European power, to settle any of these countries, for the purposes of cultivation; and no European power has certainly any claim to the soil, which belongs to its present possessors, the native Africans, except only so much as we have already purchased from them.

Admirably adapted as this country is to facilitate its own internal commerce, by means of its large rivers, and the numerous small ones, which, in a very great portion of it, admit the approach of small vessels to carry off its produce by water; yet it is not less eligibly situated for external commerce, its distance from this country being scarcely more than half that to the West Indies; and communication with it, at all seasons, practicable, and easy; without the dread of tiphoons and hurricanes; or being cramped, and retarded, by trade winds and monsoons.

This country then I should propose to colonize. I am well aware that this proposition will be opposed by a very respectable, and weighty, body of men, the West India planters; as well as by all those concerned in carrying out the slave trade: but even though it might be hostile to their interests, which I by no means concede, yet if it will be beneficial to the country at large, it is a measure that ought to be adopted.

Having brought my Journal to a conclusion, it may be necessary to say a few words on two or three points which might appear to require explanation, and to anticipate some objections which it is probable may be made to some of the transactions related therein.

Had I foreseen the exact situation in which I was to be placed, on the departure of the Calypso from the island of Bulama, I am not sure that I should have sailed on the expedition; not that the prospect of the difficulties to be encountered would have deterred me; but, the persuasion that, if I remained behind after the sailing of that ship, the law had armed me with no power to act with energy, would, I trust, have deterred persons less scrupulously obedient to the laws of their country than myself, from voluntarily placing themselves in such a situation.

To begin by avowing that the first act of mine, in the direction of the reduced colony, was an illegal one, seems to argue a degree of moral turpitude, inconsistent with the virtues which such a situation required. But when it is proved that such a situation could not possibly have been foreseen, and that such an act arose from absolute and unconditional necessity, it will not, it is hoped, be condemned.

It has already been related that we were ignorant of having committed any misdemeanour, in drawing up our constitution of government, previous to the arrival of the ships at Gravesend; and, that in consequence of our memorial to government, we were permitted to proceed, on condition only of our ‘having disclaimed and set aside a certain printed memorandum of agreement, and constitution of government, for a colony about to be established on or near the island of Bulam, &c’. Now this was taking from us every semblance of command over the colonists; however, having gone so far, it was deemed, even under that disadvantage, better to proceed than to abandon the undertaking.

The subsequent events, which led to the abandoning of the island by the majority of the settlers, no one could possibly have foreseen; but they were all such as rendered a coercive power, on the part of the governor, more necessary than ever.

THE wind, which had changed to the westward as soon as we had got through the Needles, became fair the next morn, and increasing gradually to a stiff breeze, enabled us to clear the Channel on the evening of the 15th, when Sophia Ford, a girl who had died the preceding day of a decline, was committed to the deep. The next day we lost sight of the Beggar's Benison in the morn, and although in every consideration it was highly desirable that the ships should continue together during their passage, yet, from a very unaccountable inattention on board the Calypso, that ship parted from us in the following night.

As the weather was very fine, and the Calypso had the advantage of the Hankey in sailing, no blame whatever could be attached to the master of the latter ship, the Calypso was lost sight of indeed almost in the wind's eye, so that it was ever in her power to bear down upon, and close with the Hankey.

The wind had hitherto been very moderate, but on the 19th it increased so much as to produce a sea which was very inconvenient to those unaccustomed to it, and the consequence was that most of the landmen, and all the women were sea sick; the latter, some of whom had infants at the breast, had been more than 24 hours without nourishment of any kind, and would have been so much longer if I had not undertaken to cook for them; for some, who would have relieved them if able, were labouring under the same disease; and the surgeon, whose more immediate duty it was to attend to them, was wholly destitute of feeling; he left to those, who had folly enough to feel, the charge of taking care of his patients; this certainly was not a very dignified employment, it was at least a useful one, and had I not undertaken it these poor women might have suffered much from hunger ere any other would have relieved them.

AT the bottom, or east end, of that immense harbour formed by continental islands on the north, and the Bijuga Archipelago on the south, and at the mouth of the Rio Grande, in the 11th degree of north latitude, is the island of Bulama. A small island, at its north-east point, is separated from the Biafara shore, by a narrow branch of the sea, not exceeding 200 yards, and the channel between this small island and Bulama affords a passage for boats at half tide, but not at low water; the whole east side of the island forms, with the Biafara shore, a remarkably fine harbour of about two miles in width, with water in every part of it for the largest ships, within a cable's length of the beach; and in all places a good clear bottom; its S.E. side confines the waters of the Rio Grande, whose embouchure is considered to be between the south point of this island, and Tombaly point on the Naloo coast; the west side of the island is separated from that of Galenas on the eastern edge of the Bijuga cluster, by a good broad channel with very deep water; the north side is bordered by extensive shoals which extend all the way to the island of Arcas. This island, I conceive to be about seven leagues in length, its breadth various, from five to two leagues; the land rises gradually, generally speaking, from the shore, to the moderate height of about 50 feet above the level of the sea, and appears to be covered with wood, though there are some natural savannahs in it, and some places cleared by its former inhabitants, or late Bijuga lords; the soil is every where rich and prolific, and affords ample pasturage to innumerable elephants, buffaloes, deer, and other wild animals which graze on its surface; the sea, which surrounds it, is sheltered from violent agitation in every direction, and abounds with excellent fish of various kinds; in short here reigns abundance of every thing requisite to the comforts of savage life.

Its general appearance is that of the most luxuriant vegetation. It seems to have been produced in one of nature's happiest moods.

WHEN I quitted the Hankey on the morning of the 5th, I had left a quiet, clean, healthy, and orderly ship, the colonists contented and in good spirits; but when I returned on the 7th, I found a noisy, dirty, disorderly ship, the colonists dissatisfied and dispirited. That such a change could have been operated in so short a time was scarcely credible, but such was the effect of the Calypso's rejunction. The fever, from which the Hankey was still free, had already made its appearance in the former ship; and, instead of separating the infected from the well, and taking any steps to prevent the spreading of that dangerous disease, by prohibiting any unnecessary intercourse between the two ships, the whole time, since the arrival of the Calypso, had been taken up in the constant interchange of visits: nay, the affected themselves, the very persons who had the fever on them at the time, had been actually on board the Hankey; and the consequence was that many days did not elapse before the fever made its appearance in that ship also.

Nothing was heard but mutual reproaches from the people of the Calypso. The colonists accused the members of the council, in that ship, of a want of attention to their comfort and accommodation; they were tired with the length of the voyage, irritated with sickness, the loss of their associates, and the disappointment of their hopes; and became extremely dissatisfied with their situation.

The members of the council, on the contrary, attributed their principal misfortune to the unruly and disobedient conduct of the colonists; these general and reciprocal complaints, produced, in the minds of a few, contempt; but in the majority of the colonists, despondency.

The first object after the junction of the ships was the redemption of our women and children. For this purpose I returned the same evening to Bissao, to negociate with Mr. de Sylva Cordoza, the mode of affecting their ransom; which he readily undertook to accomplish, by dispatching some of his grumetas in a sloop, to the Isle of Canabac,i (whither they had been carried) with a proper assortment of goods.

THAT part of the western coast of Africa, lying between the rivers Grande and Gambia, and comprized within the 11th and 13th degrees and 20th minute of north latitude, is not formed by the main land or continent, but by a long chain of low, and fertile, islands, separated from each other, and from the continent, by narrow, navigable, branches of the sea.

On the northernmost of these islands is the Cape of St. Mary, which forms the southern headland to the entrance of the river Gambia; hence the coast runs nearly south, along five islands, for about 24 leagues, to Cape Roxo, whence it takes nearly an E.S.E. direction along four other islands, for about 45 leagues, when we arrive at the island of Bulama, situated at the mouth of the river Grande. Thus between the mouths of these two rivers the sea coast is formed by ten islands in an extent of 69 leagues, or rather more than 200 geographical miles.

The continent between these two latitudes, is bounded on the north by the river Gambia, which is navigable by large vessels for near 80 leagues, and by small ones, to the falls of Barraconda, more than 300 miles from its mouth; the river Grande is its southern boundary, which is navigable by ships to Bulola 72 miles from its entrance; how much higher, by boats, is not exactly known the Gambia and high mountains are its eastern, and the islands before-mentioned its western, limit. Few countries of equal extent seem better adapted for commerce and for defence; three sides, and the largest part of the fourth, being embraced by the sea and two great rivers, and the remainder guarded by high mountains. Numerous rivers, rivulets, and creeks, dividing, intersecting, and watering its western part, and thus facilitating its communication and commerce, seem to point it out as a most eligible spot for European colonization.

No. 1.

A number of Gentlemen having formed themselves into a Society, and opened a Subscription for the purpose of making a Settlement, on an eligible spot on the Coast of Africa, offer the following Proposals:

N. B. Subscriptions are received at Messrs. Biddulph, Cocks, Cocks, and Ridge, Charing-cross,857 where a list of the subscribers may be seen.

*͓* The Committee meets every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, for the dispatch of business, at seven o’clock in the evening, No. 103 Hatton-garden, Holborn.

Signed by order of the Committee, H. H. Dalrymple.

Nov. 9, 1791, No. 103, Hatton-Garden.

No. 2.

Memorandum of Agreement, and Constitution of Government, for a Colony about to be established on or near the Island of Bulam, in Africa, as engrossed and signed on the ninth day of March, 1792.

MEMORANDUM OF AGREEMENT made this ninth day of March, in the thirty-third year of the reign of our Sovereign Lord George the Third, by the grace of God of Great Britain, France, and Ireland King, Defender of the Faith; and in the year, of our Lord One Thousand Seven Hundred and Ninety-two, between us the subscribers about to settle a colony on the island of Bulam, or on some other part on the coast of Africa, on the one part; and the settlers or purchasers of lands in the said colony, on the other part; that is to say, that we having for certain considerations granted to persons remaining in England, allotments of land in our said colony, who thereby become purchasers of the same from us, do hereby covenant, promise and agree to and with each other, and bind and oblige ourselves to the performance of all the covenants hereinafter contained. And we hereby further agree, that we, by our governor and council, viz. Henry Hew Dalrymple, Esquire, Governor; John Young, Esquire, Lieutenant-governor; Sir William Halton, Baronet, John King, Philip Beaver, Peter Clutterbuck, Clotworthy Upton, Francis Brodie, Charles Drake, John Paiba, Richard Hancorne, Robert Dobbin, and Isaac Ximenes, Esquires, Members of our said council, shall and will sign memoranda and grants of land within the said colony or settlement, upon the terms and in the proportions as herein after expressed;

IT has been observed in the preceding chapter that to the southward of the Continental Islands, forming the coastline between Cape Roxo and Bissao, there was a cluster of other islands, making an immense harbour to the island of Bulama.

This groupe of islands is called in our charts the Bissagos islands, and are placed on shoals, called the shoals of the Rio Grande; these are the Bijuga Islands.

S.S.W. of Cape Roxo, at the distance of about twelve leagues, and in the latitude of 11. 40. north, is the N. W. edge of what are called, by seamen, the shoals of the Rio Grande. These shoals, or sand banks, extend thence in a S. E. direction full forty leagues, and are interspersed with many marshy and half-drowned, and many inhabited, islands. The north and the eastern edges of this bank are terminated by them, but the south and the western limits of it are not exactly known; at least we are so ignorant of them, that, to my knowledge, several ships have lately struck upon them, out of sight of land; and more vessels have been lost upon these shoals, I verily believe, than on all the rest of Africa. We can scarcely be said to be better acquainted with them than with the Yellow Sea.

The northern edge of these islands and shoals forms the southern limit of the great channel leading to the island of Bulama, and the mouth of the Rio Grande: although there are some shoals in this channel, yet it is every where abundantly wide, with a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels; and in every part of it ships may anchor in perfect safety at any season of the year.

The eastern edge is formed by the islands of Galenas, Porcos, Canabac, Mayo, Honey and Poison; along which there is a deep, though narrow, and somewhat dangerous and intricate channel. The isle of Jamber, (though belonging to the Bijugas,) and the shoals between it and the Naloo shore, I consider as forming the eastern boundary of this passage.

Of the south and west limits I have not any knowledge.

Of the islands which lie scattered over this immense bank, scarcely more than the names of some of the principal ones is known to Europeans.

PREFACE

TO

LIEUTENANT BEAVER'S JOURNAL.

I HAD long doubted whether or not I should publish the Journal I had kept during my residence on the island of Bulama, or whether it would not have been better to make short extracts from it only; but, though the form of a Journal is tedious, and the matter, in that shape, generally uninteresting, yet on this occasion it was thought best to preserve it, because it was written at the time, and with the feelings which our situation then called forth. It were easy to have put it into a different form and language, but then it would not have been what it professes to be, a transcript of my Journal actually written on the island.

There are parts, very many perhaps, which require an apology, and which it may be said, should not have been published: for instance, my first day's Journal of the 19th of July, and the one following, and those of the 12th and 17th of August, with many others; but, as before observed, it was thought best to publish the Journal as it was written; because it is conceived that if it had any interest at all, it arose from laying before the reader, our precise situation and sentiments at the time; making him as it were, one of the colonists, without experiencing any of their difficulties.

As this Journal, therefore, was written without the most distant idea of publishing it, and with the greatest probability of never being carried off the island; as it was written amidst some danger, and great bodily, as well as mental exertions, it is confidently hoped that the liberal-minded will not too rigidly criticise it; about the opinions of others I am not very anxious.

Words have been sometimes, but not frequently, altered: the sense never.

Lieutenant Beaver's Journal, &c.

ABOUT one o’clock the Calypso sailed for Sierra Leone, with the major part of the colonists, and saluted us with three guns, which was returned with seven.