The particle trajectories in irrotational, incompressible and inviscid deep-water surface gravity waves are open, leading to a net drift in the direction of wave propagation commonly referred to as the Stokes drift, which is responsible for catalysing surface wave-induced mixing in the ocean and transporting marine debris. A balance between phase-averaged momentum density, kinetic energy density and vorticity for irrotational, monochromatic and spatially periodic two-dimensional water waves is derived by working directly within the Lagrangian reference frame, which tracks particle trajectories as a function of their labels and time. This balance should be expected as all three of these quantities are conserved following particles in this system. Vorticity in particular is always conserved along particles in two-dimensional inviscid flow, and as such even in its absence it is the value of the vorticity that fundamentally sets the drift, which in the Lagrangian frame is identified as the phase-averaged momentum density of the system. A relationship between the drift and the geometric mean water level of particles is found at the surface, which highlights connections between the geometry and dynamics. Finally, an example of an initially quiescent fluid driven by a wavelike pressure disturbance is considered, showing how the net momentum and energy from the surface pressure disturbance transfer to the wave field, and recognizing the source of the mean Lagrangian drift as the net momentum required to generate an irrotational surface wave by any conservative force.

Spray formed by a myriad of secondary droplets generated by the impact of raindrops on a deep-water pool is studied with a laboratory rain facility. Experiments are performed with two rain rates and raindrops fall on the water surface at a nearly constant velocity. The secondary droplets at various heights above the pool's water surface are recorded with a cinematic digital in-line holographic technique that consists of a high-speed camera, a pulsed Nd:YLF laser and associated optics. The experimental results show that in the heat-map scatter plots of radius versus velocity near the water surface of the pool, the droplets are distributed into three regions, corresponding to distinct physical mechanisms of droplet generation. It is found that the diameter distribution of the droplets in the rain field changes with height above the pool's water surfaces. Both numerical simulation and experimental data reveal that the liquid water content, due to the presence of secondary droplets, in the atmospheric surface layer decreases exponentially with increasing height.

We present direct numerical simulations of the splashing process between two cylindrical liquid rims. This belongs to a class of impact and collision problems with a wide range of applications in science and engineering, and motivated here by splashing of breaking ocean waves. Interfacial perturbations with a truncated white noise frequency profile are introduced to the rims before their collision, whose subsequent morphological development is simulated by solving the two-phase incompressible Navier–Stokes equation with the adaptive mesh refinement technique, within the Basilisk software environment. We first derive analytical solutions predicting the unsteady interfacial and velocity profiles of the expanding sheet forming between the two rims, and develop scaling laws for the evolution of the lamella rim under capillary deceleration. We then analyse the formation and growth of transverse ligaments ejected from the lamella rims, which we find to originate from the initial corrugated geometry of the perturbed rim surface. Novel scaling models are proposed for predicting the decay of the ligament number density due to the ongoing ligament merging phenomenon, and found to agree well with the numerical results presented here. The role of the mechanism in breaking waves is discussed further and necessary next steps in the problem are identified.

The present study focuses on two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of shallow-water breaking waves, specifically those generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The primary objective is to quantitatively analyse the dynamics, kinematics and energy dissipation associated with wave breaking. The numerical results exhibit good agreement with experimental data in terms of free-surface profiles during wave breaking. A parametric study was conducted to examine the influence of various wave properties and initial conditions on breaking characteristics. According to research on the Bond number ($Bo$, the ratio of gravitational to surface tension forces), an increased surface tension leads to the formation of more prominent parasitic capillaries at the forwards face of the wave profile and a thicker plunging jet, which causes a delayed breaking time and is tightly correlated with the main cavity size. A close relationship between wave statistics and the initial conditions of the wave plate is discovered, allowing for the classification of breaker types based on the ratio of wave height to water depth, $H/d$. Moreover, an analysis based on inertial scaling arguments reveals that the energy dissipation rate due to breaking can be linked to the local geometry of the breaking crest $H_b/d$, and exhibits a threshold behaviour, where the energy dissipation approaches zero at a critical value of $H_b/d$. An empirical scaling of the breaking parameter is proposed as $b = a(H_b/d - \chi _0)^n$, where $\chi _0 = 0.65$ represents the breaking threshold and $n = 1.5$ is a power law determined through the best fit to the numerical results.

To get an insight into the dynamics of the oceanic surface boundary layer we develop an asymptotic model of the nonlinear dynamics of linearly decaying three-dimensional long-wave perturbations in weakly stratified boundary-layer flows. Although in nature the free-surface boundary layers in the ocean are often weakly stratified due to solar radiation and air entrainment caused by wave breaking, weak stratification has been invariably ignored. Here, we consider an idealized hydrodynamic model, where finite-amplitude three-dimensional perturbations propagate in a horizontally uniform unidirectional weakly stratified shear flow confined to a boundary layer adjacent to the water surface. Perturbations satisfy the no-stress boundary condition at the surface. They are assumed to be long compared with the boundary-layer thickness. Such perturbations have not been studied even in a linear setting. By exploiting the assumed smallness of nonlinearity, wavenumber, viscosity and the Richardson number, on applying triple-deck asymptotic scheme and multiple-scale expansion, we derive in the distinguished limit a novel essentially two-dimensional nonlinear evolution equation, which is the main result of the work. The equation represents a generalization of the two-dimensional Benjamin–Ono equation modified by the explicit account of viscous effects and new dispersion due to weak stratification. It describes perturbation dependence on horizontal coordinates and time, while its vertical structure, to leading order, is given by an explicit analytical solution of the linear boundary value problem. It shows the principal importance of weak stratification for three-dimensional perturbations.

An experimental investigation of two-dimensional dispersively focused laboratory breaking waves is presented. We describe the bandwidth effect on breaking wave energetics, including spectral energy evolution, characteristic group velocity, energy dissipation and its rate, and breaking strength parameter, $b$. To evaluate the role of bandwidth, three definitions of wave group steepness are adopted where $S_s$ and $S_n$ are bandwidth-dependent and $S_p$ remains constant when bandwidth is changed. Our data show two regimes of spectral energy evolution in breaking wave groups, with both regimes bandwidth-dependent: energy dissipation and gain occur at $f > 0.95f_p$ ($f_p$ is the peak frequency) and $f < 0.95f_p$, respectively. The characteristic group velocity, which is used in energy dissipation calculations, increases by up to 7 % after wave breaking, being larger for higher bandwidth breaking waves. An unambiguous bandwidth dependence is found between $S_p$ and both the fractional and absolute wave energy dissipation. Wave groups of larger bandwidth break at a lower value of $S_p$ and consequently lose relatively more energy. The energy dissipation rate depends on the breaking duration which itself is bandwidth dependent. Consequently, no clear bandwidth effect is observed in energy dissipation rate when compared with either $S_p$ or $S_s$. However, there is a systematic bandwidth dependence in the variation of $b$ when parameterised in terms of $S_p$, with their relationship becoming increasingly nonlinear as bandwidth increases. When parameterised with $S_s$, $b$ shows a markedly reduced bandwidth dependence. Finally, the numerical breaking onset and relationship between $b$ and $S_s$ in the numerical study of Derakhti & Kirby (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 790, 2016, pp. 553–581) is validated experimentally.

We present novel numerical simulations investigating the bag breakup of liquid droplets. We first examine the viscous effect on the early-time drop deformation, comparing with theory and experiment. Next, a bag film forms at late time and is susceptible to spurious mesh-induced breakup in numerical simulations, which has prevented previous studies from reaching grid convergence of fragment statistics. We therefore adopt the manifold death (MD) algorithm which artificially perforates thin films once they reach a prescribed critical thickness independent of the grid size, controlled by a numerical parameter $L_{sig}$. We show grid convergence of fragment statistics when utilising the MD algorithm, and analyse the fragment behaviour and bag film disintegration mechanisms including ligament breakup, node detachment and rim destabilisation. Our choice of the critical thickness parameter $L_{sig}$ is limited by numerical constraints and thus has not been matched to experiment or theory; consequently, the current simulations yield critical bag film perforation thicknesses larger than experimentally observed. The influence of the MD algorithm configuration on the bag breakup phenomena and statistics will be investigated in future work. We also study the effects of moderate liquid Ohnesorge number ($0.005 \leqslant Oh \leqslant 0.05$) on the bag breakup process and fragment statistics, where a non-monotonic dependency of the average diameter of bag film fragments on $Oh$ is found. These results highlight the utility of the MD algorithm in multiphase simulations involving topological changes, and pave the way for physics-based numerical investigations into spume generation at the air–sea interface.

The statistics of breaking wave fields are characterised within a novel multi-layer framework, which generalises the single-layer Saint-Venant system into a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier–Stokes equations. We simulate an ensemble of phase-resolved surface wave fields in physical space, where strong nonlinearities, including directional wave breaking and the subsequent highly rotational flow motion, are modelled, without surface overturning. We extract the kinematics of wave breaking by identifying breaking fronts and their speed, for freely evolving wave fields initialised with typical wind wave spectra. The $\varLambda (c)$ distribution, defined as the length of breaking fronts (per unit area) moving with speed $c$ to $c+{\rm d}c$ following Phillips (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 156, 1985, pp. 505–531), is reported for a broad range of conditions. We recover the $\varLambda (c) \propto c^{-6}$ scaling without wind forcing for sufficiently steep wave fields. A scaling of $\varLambda (c)$ based solely on the root-mean-square slope and peak wave phase speed is shown to describe the modelled breaking distributions well. The modelled breaking distributions are in good agreement with field measurements and the proposed scaling can be applied successfully to the observational data sets. The present work paves the way for simulations of the turbulent upper ocean directly coupled to a realistic breaking wave dynamics, including Langmuir turbulence, and other sub-mesoscale processes.

An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 1), the dynamics of the three breakers are studied through measurements of the evolution of their free surface profiles during 10 repeated breaking events for each wave. The waves are created from dispersively focused wave packets generated with three wave maker motions that differ primarily by small changes in their overall amplitude. Breaker profiles are measured with a cinematic laser-induced fluorescence technique covering a streamwise region of approximately one breaker wavelength and over a time of 3.4 breaker periods. The aligned profile data is used to create spatio-temporal maps of the ensemble average surface height and the standard deviation of both the local normal distance and the local arc length relative to the instantaneous mean profile. It is found that the mean and standard deviation maps contain strongly correlated localized features and indicate that the transition from laminar to turbulent flow is a highly repeatable process. Regions of high standard deviation include the splash created by the plunging jet impact and subsequent splash impacts at the front of the breaking region as well as the site where the air pocket entrained under the plunging jet at the moment of jet tip impact comes to the surface and pops. In Part 2 (Erinin et al., J. Fluid Mech., vol. 967, 2023, A36), these features are used to interpret various features of the distributions of droplet number, diameter and velocity.

An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 2), in-line cinematic holography is used to measure the positions, diameters ($d\geq 100\ \mathrm {\mu }{\rm m}$), times and velocities of droplets generated by the three plunging breaking waves studied in Part 1 (Erinin et al., J. Fluid Mech., vol. 967, 2023, A35) as the droplets move up across a horizontal measurement plane located just above the wave crests. It is found that there are four major mechanisms for droplet production: closure of the indentation between the top surface of the plunging jet and the splash that it creates, the bursting of large bubbles that were entrapped under the plunging jet at impact, splashing and bubble bursting in the turbulent zone on the front face of the wave and the bursting of small bubbles that reach the water surface at the crest of the non-breaking wave following the breaker. The droplet diameter distributions for the entire droplet set for each breaker are fitted with power-law functions in separate small- and large-diameter regions. The droplet diameter where these power-law functions cross increases monotonically from 820 to 1480 $\mathrm {\mu }{\rm m}$ from the weak to the strong breaker, respectively. The droplet diameter and velocity characteristics and the number of the droplets generated by the four mechanisms are found to vary significantly and the processes that create these differences are discussed.

To investigate the initial development of the Rayleigh–Bénard–Marangoni (RBM) instability in a relatively deep domain, direct numerical simulations for a large range of Marangoni and Rayleigh numbers were performed. In the simulations, the surface was assumed to be flat and surface cooling was modelled by a constant heat flux. The small-scale dynamics of the flow and temperature fields near the surface was fully resolved by using a non-uniform vertical grid distribution. A detailed investigation of the differences in physical mechanisms that drive the Rayleigh- and Marangoni-dominated instabilities is presented. To this end, various properties such as the maturation rate of convection cells, the fluctuating kinetic energy and the surface characteristic length scale were studied. It was confirmed that buoyancy forces and surface-temperature-gradient-driven Marangoni forces enhance one another in promoting the development of the RBM instability. When using a relevant measure of the effective thermal boundary layer thickness as length scale, both the critical Marangoni and Rayleigh numbers, obtained for the purely Marangoni- and purely Rayleigh-driven instabilities, were found to be in good agreement with the literature.

When surface waves interact with ambient turbulence, the two affect each other mutually. Turbulent eddies get redirected, intensified and periodically stretched and compressed, while the waves suffer directional scattering. We study these mutual interactions experimentally in the water channel laboratory at the Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU) Trondheim. Long groups of waves were propagated upstream on currents with identical mean flow but different turbulence properties, created by an active grid at the current inlet. The subsurface flow in the spanwise–vertical plane was measured with stereo particle-image velocimetry. Comparing the subsurface velocity fields before and after the passage of a wave group, a strong enhancement of streamwise vorticity is observed which increases rapidly towards the surface for $k_0z\gtrsim -0.3$ ($z$, vertical distance from still surface; $k_0$, carrier wavenumber) in qualitative agreement with theory. Next, we measure the broadening of the directional wave spectrum at increasing propagation distance. The rate of directional diffusion is greatest for the turbulent case with the highest energy at the longest length scales whereas the highest total turbulent kinetic energy overall did not produce the most scattering. The variance of directional spectra is found to increase linearly as a function of propagation time.

The events following the 15 January 2022 explosions of the Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha'apai volcano highlighted the need for a better understanding of ocean-atmosphere interactions when large amounts of energy are locally injected into one (or both). Starting from the compressible Euler equations, a two-way coupled (TWC) system is derived governing the long-wave behaviour of the ocean and atmosphere under isentropic constraint. Bathymetry and topography are accounted for along with three-dimensional atmospheric non-uniformities through their depth average over a spherical shell. A linear analysis, yielding two pairs of gravito-acoustic waves, offers explanations for phenomena observed during the Tonga event. A continuous transcritical regime (in terms of water depth) is identified as the source of large wave generation in deep water bodies, removing the singularity-driven Proudman-type resonance observed in one-way coupled models. The refractive properties, governing the interaction of the atmospheric wave with step changes in water depth, are derived to comment on mode-to-mode energy transfer. Two-dimensional global simulations modelling the propagation of the atmospheric wave (under realistic conditions on the day) and its worldwide effect on oceans are presented. Local maxima of water-height disturbance in the farfield from the volcano, linked to the atmospheric wave deformation (in agreement with observations), are identified, emphasising the importance of the TWC model for any daylong predictions. The proposed framework can be extended to include additional layers and physics, e.g. ocean and atmosphere stratification. With the aim of contributing to warning system improvement, the code necessary to simulate the event with the proposed model is made available.

The shape of depth-limited breaking-wave overturns is important for turbulence injection, bubble entrainment and sediment suspension. Overturning wave shape depends on a nonlinearity parameter $H/h$, where $H$ is the wave height, and $h$ is the water depth. Cross-shore wind direction (offshore/onshore) and magnitude affect laboratory shoaling wave shape and breakpoint location $X_{{bp}}$, but wind effects on overturning wave shape are largely unstudied. We perform field-scale experiments at the Surf Ranch wave basin with fixed bathymetry and $\approx 2.25$ m shoaling solitons with small height variations propagating at $C=6.7\ \mathrm {m}\ \mathrm {s}^{-1}$. Observed non-dimensional cross-wave wind $U_w$ was onshore and offshore, varying realistically ($-1.2 < U_{w}/C < 0.7$). Georectified images, a wave staff, and lidar are used to estimate $X_{{bp}}$, $H/h$, overturn area $A$ and aspect ratio for 22 waves. The non-dimensionalized $X_{{bp}}$ was inversely related to $U_{w}/C$. The non-dimensional overturn area and aspect ratio also were inversely related to $U_{w}/C$, with smaller and narrower overturns for increasing onshore wind. No overturning shape dependence on the weakly varying $H/h$ was seen. The overturning shape variation was as large as prior laboratory experiments with strong $H/h$ variations without wind. An idealized potential air flow simulation on steep shoaling soliton shape has strong surface pressure variations, potentially inducing overturning shape changes. Through wave-overturning impacts on turbulence and sediment suspension, coastal wind variations could be relevant for near-shore morphology.

After decades of research efforts, wind–wave interaction mechanisms have been recognized as extremely elusive. The reason is the complex nature of the problem, which combines complex coupling mechanisms between turbulent wind and water waves with the presence of multiple governing parameters, such as the friction Reynolds number of the wind, the water depth and the wind fetch. As shown unequivocally here, the use of suitable flow settings allows us to reduce the complex problem of wind–wave interaction to its essential features, mainly as a function of the sole friction Reynolds number of the wind. The resulting numerical solution allows us to study the interactions between water and air layers with their own fluid properties, and to unveil very interesting features, such as an oblique wave pattern travelling upstream and a wave-induced Stokes sublayer. The latter is responsible for a drag reduction mechanism in the turbulent wind. Despite the simulated flow conditions being far from the intense events occurring at the ocean–atmosphere interface, the basic flow phenomena unveiled here may explain some experimental evidence in wind–wave problems. Among other things, the wave-induced Stokes sublayer may shed light on the large scatter of the drag coefficient data in field measurements where swell waves of arbitrary directions are often present. Hence the present results and the developed approach pave the way for the understanding and modelling of the surface fluxes at the ocean–atmosphere interface, which are of overwhelming importance for climate science.

The role of the Lagrangian mean flow, or drift, in modulating the geometry, kinematics and dynamics of rotational and irrotational deep-water surface gravity waves is examined. A general theory for permanent progressive waves on an arbitrary vertically sheared steady Lagrangian mean flow is derived in the Lagrangian reference frame and mapped to the Eulerian frame. A Lagrangian viewpoint offers tremendous flexibility due to the particle labelling freedom and allows us to reveal how key physical wave behaviour arises from a kinematic constraint on the vorticity of the fluid, inter alia the nonlinear correction to the phase speed of irrotational finite amplitude waves, the free surface geometry and velocity in the Eulerian frame, and the connection between the Lagrangian drift and the Benjamin–Feir instability. To complement and illustrate our theory, a small laboratory experiment demonstrates how a specially tailored sheared mean flow can almost completely attenuate the Benjamin–Feir instability, in qualitative agreement with the theory. The application of these results to problems in remote sensing and ocean wave modelling is discussed. We provide an answer to a long-standing question: remote sensing techniques based on observing current-induced shifts in the wave dispersion will measure the Lagrangian, not the Eulerian, mean current.

A novel experiment is presented to study the initial disturbances on a free surface due to the constant acceleration of liquid around a submerged obstacle. The surface response to different obstacle sizes, initial surface heights and fluid velocities is measured using high-speed videography. Perturbations observed on the surface are classified into either jetting or gravity waves by measuring the steepness of growing liquid columns. A classification phase map between these two regimes is obtained and compared with analytical results by Martín Pardo and Nedić (2021). The agreement between decision boundaries is good for high Froude numbers (high fluid velocities) but deteriorates at lower velocities, where viscosity and surface tension effects (not considered in the analytical model) have a greater predominance. The surface profile and perturbation amplitude measured in experiments are also compared against this analytical model. In all cases, the model accurately predicts the corresponding experimental results at the beginning of the motion, but the prediction error increases with time. It is also observed that faster moving surfaces that lead to the onset of jetting have greater prediction accuracies and longer validity times of the predictions.

Highly resolved laboratory measurements of the airflow over wind-generated waves are examined using a novel wave growth diagnostic that quantifies the presence of Miles’ critical layer mechanism of wind-wave growth. The wave growth diagnostic is formulated based on a linear stability analysis, and results in growth rates that agree well with those found by a pressure reconstruction method as well as other, less direct, methods. This finding, combined with a close agreement between the airflow measurements and the predictions of linear stability (critical layer) theory, demonstrate that the Miles’ critical layer mechanism can cause significant wave growth in young (wave age $c/u_* = 6.3$, where $c$ is the wave phase speed, and $u_*$ the friction velocity) wind-forced waves.

Wind gustiness in the marine atmospheric boundary layer affects significantly the dynamics of air–sea interaction. To understand the impacts of wind gust events, we perform large-eddy simulation of wind turbulence over a travelling wave to investigate the response of the wind field to an impulsive wind speed increase or decrease. It is found that the turbulence fluctuations and the terms in the turbulent kinetic energy budget equation have a delayed response to the change in the mean flow, while the response of the wave-coherent motions is quasi-stationary. The wave-coherent motions are investigated quantitatively through comparison with a viscous curvilinear model developed by Cao et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 901, 2020, A27) and Cao & Shen (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 919, 2021, A38). We observe an asymmetric hysteresis between the growing wind and the decaying wind in the evolution of the form drag and the viscous drag. We find further that the variation of the wave growth rate during the wind gust is related closely to the contribution from the out-of-phase component of the vertical velocity. Our discoveries provide evidence for the necessity of improving non-equilibrium turbulence and wind input modelling to account for the wind gustiness effect in future studies.

When wind blows over water, ripples are generated on the water surface. These ripples can be regarded as perturbations of the wind field, which is modelled as a parallel inviscid flow. For a given wavenumber $k$, the perturbed streamfunction of the wind field and the complex phase speed are the eigenfunction and the eigenvalue of the so-called Rayleigh equation in a semi-infinite domain. Because of the small air–water density ratio, $\rho _{{a}}/\rho _{{w}}\equiv \epsilon \ll 1$, the wind and the ripples are weakly coupled, and the eigenvalue problem can be solved perturbatively. At the leading order, the eigenvalue is equal to the phase speed $c_0$ of surface waves. At order $\epsilon$, the eigenvalue has a finite imaginary part, which implies growth. Miles (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 3, 1957, pp. 185–204) showed that the growth rate is proportional to the square modulus of the leading-order eigenfunction evaluated at the so-called critical level $z=z_c$, where the wind speed is equal to $c_0$ and the waves extract energy from the wind. Here, we construct uniform asymptotic approximations of the leading-order eigenfunction for long waves, which we use to calculate the growth rate as a function of $k$. In the strong wind limit, we find that the fastest growing wave is such that the aerodynamic pressure is in phase with the wave slope. The results are confirmed numerically.