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7 - The Medieval Mantles of Hibernia: Functional Markers of Ethnic Identity

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  09 May 2024

Gale R. Owen-Crocker
Affiliation:
University of Manchester
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Summary

Her Majesty giveth allowance for, an Irish mantle, which costeth but five shillings, will be gained to him in the charge, and be his bed in the night, and a great comfort for him in sickness and health; for the mantle being never so wet, will presently with a little shaking and wringing be presently dry; for the want of which the soldiers lying abroad, marching and keeping watch and ward in cold and wet in the winter time, die in the Irish ague and in flix most pitifully. Therefore it were very meet that present consideration were had hereof against the winter, otherwise it is very like, and so it hath fallen out in experience, that the third part of the English soldiers will die lying abroad the first winter [marginal note: ‘our difficulty in this article is, that by this means the English shall become in apparel barbarous: which hath hitherto been avoided’].

The soldiers as referenced in the above quotation are those who fought in the Nine Years’ War, 1596–1603, between what was termed the Gaelic order of lordships and the rule of the Tudors in Ireland. At the start of this war, Sir Henry Wallop, the English Treasurer at War, had petitioned Sir Robert Cecil, Secretary of State, to request money to buy Hibernia (Irish) mantles to protect their soldiers against the weather and the Irish agues (strains of typhus) as evidenced in detail in the quotation. However, the marginal comment greeted the request with a warning that the wearing of this mantle would function as a mechanism to associate the civilised (England) too closely with the primitiveness of the Irish identity. In fact, by 1600, mantles in the Irish style were issued to the army, possibly in response to the war dispatches that reported more soldiers dying of ‘poor food, poor lodgings and the raw, wet Irish climate than through any military engagements’. Wallop was not alone in his observations of the underlying science of how the mantle was used to protect health in that ‘raw, wet climate’.

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Chapter
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Textiles of the Viking North Atlantic
Analysis, Interpretation, Re-creation
, pp. 126 - 144
Publisher: Boydell & Brewer
Print publication year: 2024

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