Book contents
- The Right to Dress
- The Right to Dress
- Copyright page
- Contents
- Figures
- Contributors
- Acknowledgements
- Introduction
- Part I Sumptuary Laws in Medieval and Early Modern Europe
- Part II Enacting Sumptuary Laws in Italy
- Part III The European Maritime Powers and Their Empires
- Part IV Early Modern World Empires
- Select Bibliography
- Index
- References
Select Bibliography
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 11 January 2019
Book contents
- The Right to Dress
- The Right to Dress
- Copyright page
- Contents
- Figures
- Contributors
- Acknowledgements
- Introduction
- Part I Sumptuary Laws in Medieval and Early Modern Europe
- Part II Enacting Sumptuary Laws in Italy
- Part III The European Maritime Powers and Their Empires
- Part IV Early Modern World Empires
- Select Bibliography
- Index
- References
Summary
A summary is not available for this content so a preview has been provided. Please use the Get access link above for information on how to access this content.
- Type
- Chapter
- Information
- The Right to DressSumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, c.1200–1800, pp. 479 - 490Publisher: Cambridge University PressPrint publication year: 2019
References
Select Bibliography
Akinjogbin, I. A., Dahomey and its Neighbours: 1708–1818 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1967).Google Scholar
Aktepe, M. Münir, Şem’dânî-zâde Fındıklılı Süleyman Efendi Târihi, Mür’i’t-Tevârih. 3 vols. (Istanbul, 1976–81).Google Scholar
Anderson, Ruth Matilda, The Golilla: A Spanish Collar of the 17th Century (New York: Hispanic Society of America, 1969).Google Scholar
Araujo, Ana Lucia, ‘Dahomey, Portugal, and Bahia: King Adandozan and the Atlantic Slave Trade’, Slavery and Abolition 33/1 (2012): 1–19.Google Scholar
Ares Queija, Berta, ‘Mestizos en hábito de indios: ¿estrategias transgresoras o identidades difusas?’, in Loureiro, Rui Manuel and Gruzinski, Serge (eds.) Passar as fronteiras. Il coloquio internacional sobre mediadores culturais, séculos XV a XVIII (Lagos: Centro de Estudios Gil Eanes, 1999), 133–146.Google Scholar
Baldwin, F. E., Sumptuary Legislation and Personal Regulation in England (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University, 1926).Google Scholar
Bass, Laura R. and Wunder, Amanda, ‘The Veiled Ladies of the Early Modern Spanish World: Seduction and Scandal in Seville, Madrid, and Lima’, Hispanic Review 77/1 (2009): 97–144.Google Scholar
Bastien, Pascal, ‘“Aux tresors dissipez l’on cognoist le malfaict”: Social Hierarchy and Transgressions of French Sumptuary Laws, 1543–1606’, Renaissance & Reformation/Renaissance et Reforme 23/4 (1999): 23–43.Google Scholar
Bataille, George, Visions of Excess: Selected Writings, 1927–1939 (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1985).Google Scholar
Baumgarten, Linda, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America: The Colonial Williamsburg Collection (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2002).Google Scholar
Baur, Veronika, Kleiderordnungen in Bayern vom 14. bis zum 19. Jahrhundert (Munich: Wölfle, 1975).Google Scholar
Belfanti, Carlo Marco, ‘Was Fashion a European Invention?’, Journal of Global History 3/3 (2008): 419–443.Google Scholar
Berchtold, Jacques and Porret, Michel (eds.), Etre riche au siècle de Voltaire: actes du colloque de Genève (18–19 juin 1994) (Geneva: Droz, 1996).Google Scholar
Berg, Maxine and Clifford, Helen (eds.), Consumers and Luxury. Consumer Culture in Europe 1650–1850 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999).Google Scholar
Berg, Maxine and Eger, Elizabeth (eds.), Luxury in the Eighteenth Century: Debates, Desires and Delectable Goods (Basingstoke and New York: Palgrave, 2003).Google Scholar
Bernis, Carmen, Indumentaria española en tiempos de Carlos V (Madrid: Instituto Diego Velázquez del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, 1962).Google Scholar
Bernis, Carmen, Trajes y modas en la España de los Reyes Católicos, 2 vols. (Madrid: Instituto Diego Velázquez del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, 1978–79).Google Scholar
Berry, Christopher J., The Idea of Luxury: A Conceptual and Historical Investigation (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994).Google Scholar
Bhabha, Homi, ‘Of Mimicry and Man: The Ambivalence of Colonial Discourse’, October 28 (1984): 125–133.Google Scholar
Bickford Berzock, Kathleen, Benin: Royal Arts of a West African Kingdom (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2008).Google Scholar
Bistort, Giulio, Il magistrato alle pompe nella repubblica di Venezia: studio storico, Miscellanea di Storia Veneta, series 3, vol. 5 (Venice: R. Deputazione Veneta di Storia Patria, 1912).Google Scholar
Blanc, Odile, Parades et Parures. L’invention du corps de mode à la fin du Moyen Âge (Paris: Éditions Gallimard, 1997).Google Scholar
Blondé, Bruno, Puttevils, Jeroen and Sturtewagen, Isis, ‘Silks and the “Golden Age” of Antwerp’, in Blondé, Bruno and Puttevils, Jeroen (eds.), Antwerp and the Renaissance (Turnhout: Brepols Publishers, in press).Google Scholar
Bolitho, Harold, ‘The Han’, in Hall, J. W., Jansen, Marius, Kanai, Madoka, and Teitchett, Denis (eds.), The Cambridge History of Japan, vol. 4 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1991).Google Scholar
Bonardi, Antonio, Il lusso d’altri tempi in Padova. Studio storico con documenti inediti (Padova: R. Deputazione Veneta di Storia Patria, 1910).Google Scholar
Brewer, John, and Porter, Roy (eds.), Consumption and the World of Goods (London and New York: Routledge, 1993).Google Scholar
Bridgeman, Jane, ‘“Pagare le Pompe”: Why Quattrocento Sumptuary Laws did not Work’, in Panizza, Letizia (ed.), Women in Italian Renaissance Culture and Society (Oxford: European Humanities Research Centre, 2000), 209–226.Google Scholar
Bulst, Neithard, ‘La legislazione suntuaria in Francia (secoli XIII–XVIII)’, in Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina and Campanini, Antonella (eds.), Disciplinare il lusso. La legislazione suntuaria in Italia e in Europa tra Medioevo ed età moderna (Rome: Carocci, 2003), 121–136.Google Scholar
Bulst, Neithard, ‘Zum Problem städtischer und territorialer Kleider-, Aufwands- und Luxusgesetzgebung in Deutschland (13. bis Mitte des 16. Jahrhundert)’, in Gouron, André and Rigaudière, Albert (eds.), Renaissance du pouvoir législatif et genèse de l’Etat (Montpellier: Socapress, 1988), 29–57.Google Scholar
Bushkovitch, Paul, Peter the Great: The Struggle for Power, 1671–1725 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2001).Google Scholar
Buylaert, Frederik, De Clercq, Wim and Dumolyn, Jan, ‘Sumptuary Legislation, Material Culture and the Semiotics of “Vivre Noblemen” in the County of Flanders (14th–16th Centuries)’, Social History 36/4 (2011): 393–417.Google Scholar
Calvi, Giulia, ‘Leggi suntuarie e la storia sociale’, in Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina and Campanini, Antonella (eds.), Disciplinare il lusso. La legislazione suntuaria in Italia e in Europa tra Medioevo ed età moderna (Rome: Carocci, 2003), 213–230.Google Scholar
Chaturvedula, Nandini, ‘In the Precipice of Ruin: Consumption, Sumptuary Laws, and Decadence in Early Modern Portuguese India’, Journal of World History 26/2 (2015): 355–384.Google Scholar
Chijs, J. A. van der, Nederlandsch-Indisch Plakaatboek, 17 vols. (Batavia: Landsdrukkerij, 1885–1900).Google Scholar
Clunas, Craig, Superfluous Things: Material Culture and Social Status in Early Modern China (Cambridge: Polity, 1991).Google Scholar
Coetzee, Liza-Mari, ‘Clothing, Gender and Social Identity at the Cape of Good Hope, 1652–1795’ (Unpublished MA thesis, University of Johannesburg, 2014).Google Scholar
Colomer, José Luis and Descalzo, Amalia (eds.), Spanish Fashion at the Courts of Early Modern Europe, 2 vols. (Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica, 2014).Google Scholar
Cracraft, James, The Petrine Revolution in Russian Culture (Cambridge, MA: Belknap Press, 2004).Google Scholar
Crespo, Hugo Miguel, ‘Trajar as aparências, vestir para ser: o testemunho da pragmatica de 1609’, in Sousa, Gonçalo Vasconcelos e (ed.), O luxo na região do Porto no tempo de Filipe II de Portugal (1610) (Porto: Universidade Católica Editora, 2012), 93–148.Google Scholar
Currie, Elizabeth, Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence (London: Bloomsbury, 2017).Google Scholar
Dal Prà, Laura and Peri, Paolo (eds.), Dalla testa ai piedi. Costume e moda in età gotica (Trento: Provincia Autonoma di Trento, 2006).Google Scholar
Dauncey, Sarah, ‘Illusions of Grandeur: Perceptions of Status and Wealth in Late-Ming Female Clothing and Ornamentation’, East Asian History 25/26 (2003): 43–68.Google Scholar
De Clercq, Wim, Dumolyn, Jan, and Haemers, Jelle, ‘“Vivre Noblement”: Material Culture and Elite Identity in Late Medieval Flanders’, Journal of Interdisciplinary History 38/1 (2007): 1–31.Google Scholar
De Laet, Veerle, Brussel Binnenskamers. Kunst- en luxebezit in het spanningsveld tussen hof en stad, 1600–1735 (Amsterdam:Amsterdam University Press, 2011).Google Scholar
Dean, Carolyn and Leibsohn, Dana, ‘Hybridity and its Discontents: Considering Visual Culture in Colonial Spanish America’, Colonial Latin American Review 12/1 (2003): 5–35.Google Scholar
Deceulaer, Harald, Pluriforme patronen en een verschillende snit. sociaal-economische, institutionele en culturele transformaties in de kledingsector in Antwerpen, Brussel en Gent, 1585–1800 (Amsterdam: Stichting Beheer, 2001).Google Scholar
Deusen, Nancy E. van, ‘Seeing Indios in Sixteenth-Century Castile’, William and Mary Quarterly 69/2 (2012): 205–234.Google Scholar
Dias, Luís Fernando de Carvalho, Luxo e pragmáticas no pensamento económico do século XVI (Coimbra: Coimbra Editora, 1958).Google Scholar
Donati, Claudio, L’idea di nobiltà in Italia. Secoli XIV-XVIII (Rome and Bari: Editori Laterza: 1988).Google Scholar
DuPlessis, Robert S., The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2016).Google Scholar
Earle, Rebecca, ‘Luxury, Clothing and Race in Colonial Spanish America’, in Berg, Maxine and Eger, Elizabeth (eds.), Luxury in the Eighteenth Century: Debates, Desires and Delectable Goods (London: Palgrave, 2003), 219–227.Google Scholar
Earle, Rebecca, ‘The Pleasures of Taxonomy: Casta Painting, Classification, and Colonialism’, William and Mary Quarterly 73/3 (2016): 427–466.Google Scholar
Earle, Rebecca, ‘“Two Pairs of Pink Satin Shoes!!”: Clothing, Race and Identity in the Americas, 17th-19th Centuries’, History Workshop Journal 52 (2001): 175–195.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Eisenbart, Lieselotte Constanze, Kleiderordnungen der deutschen Städte zwischen 1350 und 1700: Ein Beitrag zur Kulturgeschichte des deutschen Bürgertums (Göttingen: Musterschmidt, 1962).Google Scholar
Elliot, Matthew, ‘Dress Codes in the Ottoman Empire: The Case of the Franks’, in Faroqhi, Suraiya N. and Neumann, Christoph K. (eds.), Ottoman Costumes: From Textiles to Identity (Istanbul: EREN, 2014), 103–123.Google Scholar
Ergin, Osman Nuri, Mecelle-i Umur-i Belediye. 5 vols. (Istanbul, 1338 AH/1922 CE).Google Scholar
Farmer, Edward L., Zhu Yuanzhang and Early Ming Legislation: The Reordering of Chinese Society Following the Era of Mongol Rule (Leiden: Brill, 1995).Google Scholar
Ferriol, Charles de, Recueil de cent estampes représentant differentes nations du Levant, tirées sur des tableaux peints d’après nature en 1707 et 1708 (Paris, 1714).Google Scholar
Frick, Carole Collier, Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes and Fine Clothing (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2004).Google Scholar
Gaastra, Femme, The Dutch East India Company: Expansion and Decline (Zutpen: Walburg Pers, 2003).Google Scholar
García Marsilla, Juan Vicente, ‘Ordenando el lujo: Ideología y normativa suntuaria en las ciudades valencianas (siglos XIV y XV)’, in Brouquet, Sophie and García Marsilla, Juan V. (eds.), Mercados del lujo, mercados del arte: El gusto de las élites mediterráneas en los siglos XIV y XV (València: Universitat de València, 2015), 561–591.Google Scholar
Garrigus, John, Before Haiti: Race and Citizenship in French Saint-Domingue (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2006).Google Scholar
Gingerich, Melvin, Mennonite Attire through Four Centuries (Breinigsville, PA: Pennsylvania German Society, 1970).Google Scholar
González Arce, José Damián, Apariencia y poder. La legislación suntuaria castellana en los siglos XIII y XV (Jaén: Universidad de Jaén, 1998).Google Scholar
Grieco, Allen J., ‘From the Cookbook to the Table: A Florentine Table and Italian Recipes of the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries’, in Lambert, Carole (ed.), Du manuscrit à la table: Essais sur la cuisine au Moyen Âge et répertoire des manuscrits médiévaux contenant des recettes culinaires (Etudes Médiévales) (Montréal: Presses de l’Université de Montréal, 1992), 29–38.Google Scholar
Gschwend, Annemarie Jordan and Lowe, K. J. P. (eds.), The Global City on the Streets of Renaissance Lisbon (London: Paul Holberton, 2015).Google Scholar
Guarino, Gabriel, Representing the King’s Splendour: Communication and Reception of Symbolic Forms of Power in Viceregal Naples (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2010).Google Scholar
Guarino, Gabriel, “Spanish Fashions and Sumptuary Legislation in Habsburg Italy”, in Descalzo, Amalia and Colomer, José Luis (eds.), Spanish Fashion at the Courts of Early Modern Europe (Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica, 2014), 233–250.Google Scholar
Hampl-Kallbrunner, Gertraud, Beiträge zur Geschichte der Kleiderordnungen mit besonderer Berücksichtigung Österreichs (Wien: H. Geyer, 1962).Google Scholar
Harte, Negley B., ‘State Control of Dress and Social Change in Pre-industrial England’, in Coleman, Donald C. and John, A. H. (eds.), Trade, Government and Economy in Pre-Industrial England: Essays Presented to F. J. Fisher (London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1976), 132–165.Google Scholar
Hayward, Maria, Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII’s England (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2009).Google Scholar
Heller, Sarah-Grace, ‘Anxiety, Hierarchy, and Appearance in Thirteenth-Century Sumptuary Laws and the Romance of the Rose’, French Historical Studies 27/2 (2004): 311–348.Google Scholar
Hellie, Richard, The Economy and Material Culture of Russia, 1600–1725 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1999).Google Scholar
Hinderaker, Eric, The Two Hendricks: Unraveling a Mohawk Mystery (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2010).Google Scholar
Hirano, Katsuya, The Politics of Dialogic Imagination: Power and Popular Culture in Early Modern Japan (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2013).Google Scholar
Hooper, Wilfred, ‘The Tudor Sumptuary Law’, English Historical Review 30/119 (1915): 433–449.Google Scholar
Howell, Martha C., Commerce Before Capitalism in Europe, 1300–1600 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010).Google Scholar
Hughes, Diane Owen, ‘Regulating Women’s Fashion’, in Klapisch-Zuber, Christiane (ed.), A History of Women in the West. Vol. 2. Silences of the Middle Ages (gen. ed. Georges Duby and Michelle Perrot) (Cambridge, MA, and London: The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1992), 136–158.Google Scholar
Hughes, Lindsey, ‘From Caftans into Corsets: The Sartorial Transformation of Women during the Reign of Peter the Great’, in Barta, Peter I. (ed.), Gender and Sexuality in Russian Civilisation (London: Routledge, 2001), 17–32.Google Scholar
Hughes, Lindsey, Russia in the Age of Peter the Great (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1998).Google Scholar
Hunt, Alan, Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1996).Google Scholar
Ikegami, Eiko, Bonds of Civility: Aesthetic Networks and Political Origins of Japanese Culture (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005).Google Scholar
Inshi, Buyō, Teeuwen, Mark and Nakai, Kate Wildman (eds. and trans.), Lust, Commerce, and Corruption (New York: Columbia University Press, 2014).Google Scholar
Irigoyen-García, Javier, ‘Moors Dresses as Moors’: Clothing, Social Distinction, and Ethnicity in Early Modern Iberia (Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2017).Google Scholar
, J. C., ‘The Sumptuary Laws of Scotland’, Journal of Jurisprudence 35 (1891): 290–297.Google Scholar
Jaritz, Gerhard, ‘Social Grouping and the Languages of Dress in the Late Middle Ages’, Medieval History Journal 3/2 (2000): 235–259.Google Scholar
Jones, Adam (ed. and trans.), German Sources for West African History 1599–1669 (Wiesbaden: Franz Steiner Verlag GMBH, 1983).Google Scholar
Jordan, Anne-Marie, ‘Portuguese Royal Collections after 1521: The Choice between Flanders and Italy’, in Lowe, K. J. (ed.), Cultural Links between Portugal and Italy in the Renaissance (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2000), 265–293.Google Scholar
Jordan, Anne-Marie, ‘The Development of Catherine of Austria’s Collection in the Queen’s Household: Its Character and Cost’ (Unpublished PhD thesis, Brown University, 1994).Google Scholar
Kapossy, Béla, ‘Introduction. From Republicanism to Welfare Liberalism’, Schweizerische Zeitschrift für Geschichte 50 (2000): 275–303.Google Scholar
Kapossy, Béla, Iselin contra Rousseau. Sociable Patriotism and the History of Mankind (Basel: Schwabe, 2006).Google Scholar
Karl, Barbara, Embroidered Histories. Indian Textiles for the Portuguese Market during the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (Vienna: Böhlau Verlag, 2016).Google Scholar
Karras, Ruth Mazo, Common Women: Prostitution and Sexuality in Medieval England (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1996).Google Scholar
Kato, Takashi, ‘Governing Edo’, in McClain, James L., Merriman, John M. and Ugawa, Kaoru (eds.), Edo and Paris: Urban Life and the State in the Early Modern Era (Ithaca: Cornel University Press, 1994), 41–67.Google Scholar
Keenan, Paul, ‘The Function of Fashion: Women and Clothing at the Russian Court (1700–1762)’, in Rosslyn, Wendy and Tosi, Alessandra (eds.), Women in Russian Culture andSociety, 1700–1825 (London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2007), 125–143.Google Scholar
Kehoe, Marsely L., ‘Dutch Batavia: Exposing the Hierarchy of the Dutch Colonial City’, Journal of Historians of Netherlandish Art 7/1 (2015). doi: 10.5092/jhna.2015.7.1.3 Available at https://jhna.org/articles/dutch-batavia-exposing-hierarchy-dutch-colonial-city/.Google Scholar
Kirshner, Julius. ‘Li emergenti bisogni matrimoniali in Renaissance Florence’, in Connell, William J. (ed.), Society and Individual in Renaissance Florence (Berkeley, Los Angeles, London: University of California Press, 2002), 79–109.Google Scholar
Konetzke, Richard (ed.), Colección de documentos para la historia de la formación social de Hispanoamérica, 1493–1810, 3 vols. (Madrid: Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, 1962).Google Scholar
König, Benno, Luxusverbote im Fürstbistum Münster (Frankfurt-am-Main: Klostermann, 1999)Google Scholar
Kovesi, Catherine. ‘What is Luxury? The Rebirth of a Concept in the Early Modern World’, Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption 2/1 (2015): 25–40.Google Scholar
Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, ‘“Heralds of a Well-Instructed Mind”: Nicolosa Sanuti’s Defence of Women and their Clothes’, Renaissance Studies 13/3 (1999): 255–282.Google Scholar
Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, ‘Practical Problems in the Enforcement of Italian Sumptuary Law, 1200–1500’, in Dean, Trevor and Lowe, Kate J. P. (eds.), Crime, Society and the Law in Renaissance Italy (New York: Cambridge University Press, 1994), 99–120.Google Scholar
Kovesi Killerby, Catherine, Sumptuary Legislation in Italy, 1200–1500 (Oxford: The Clarendon Press, 2001).Google Scholar
Kraak, Deborah, “Variations on Quaker Dress in Eighteenth-Century Philadelphia,” Costume 34/1 (2000): 51–63.Google Scholar
Kraybill, Donald B., The Riddle of Amish Culture, rev. ed. (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2001).Google Scholar
Lara, Silvia Hunold, ‘Customs and Costumes: Carlos Julião and the Image of Black Slaves in Late Eighteenth-Century Brazil’, Slavery and Abolition 23/2 (2002): 125–146.Google Scholar
Lara, Silvia Hunold, ‘Sedas, panos e balangandãs: o traje de senhoras e escravas nas cidades do Rio de Janeiro e Salvador (século XVIII)’, in Nizza da Silva, Maria Beatriz (ed.), Brazil: colonização e escravidão (Rio de Janeiro: Nova Fronteira, 2000), 177–191.Google Scholar
Lara, Silvia Hunold, ‘The Signs of Color: Women’s Dress and Racial Relations in Salvador and Rio de Janeiro, ca. 1750–1815’, Colonial Latin American Review 6/2 (1997): 205–224.Google Scholar
Levi-Pisetzky, Rosita, Storia del costume in Italia. Vol. 3. Il Cinquecento. Il Seicento (Milan: Istituto Editoriale Italiano. and Fondazione Giovanni Treccani degli Alfieri per la Storia di Milano, 1964–69).Google Scholar
Lewis, Laura, Hall of Mirrors: Power, Witchcraft, and Caste in Colonial Mexico (Durham: Duke University Press, 2003).Google Scholar
Dongyang, Li (1447–1516) and Shixing, Shen (1535–1614) et al., Da Ming Hui Dian [Collected Statues of the Ming Dynasty] (Taipei: Dongnan shubaoshe, 1963).Google Scholar
Zhitan, Li, Xiaosu, Chen and Fanyun, Kong, ‘Zhengui de Ming dai fushi ziliao: Ming gong guanfu yizhang tu zhengli yanjiu zhaji’ [Notes of Ming Gong Guan Fu Yi Zhang Tu: Pictures of Court Costumes and Manners in the Ming Dynasty of China], Yishu sheji yanjiu 1 (2014): 23–28.Google Scholar
Weiqian, Liu (1521–1565) et al., Da Ming Lu [Great Ming Code] (Yangzhou: Jiangsu Guangling guji keyin she, 1989).Google Scholar
Marques, A. H. de Oliveira, ‘A pragmática de 1340’, Revista da Faculdade de Letras de Lisboa XXII, 2nd series, 2 (1956): 130–154.Google Scholar
Marques, A.H. de Oliveira, ‘Dress’, in Daily Life in Portugal in the Late Middle Ages, trans. S. S. Wyatt with drawings by Victor André (Madison, WI: The University of Wisconsin Press, 1971), 39–96.Google Scholar
Marshall, Rosalind K., ‘Conscience and Costume in Seventeenth-Century Scotland’, Costume 6 (1972): 32–35.Google Scholar
Marshall, Rosalind K., Costume in Scottish Portraits, 1560–1830 (Edinburgh: Scottish National Portrait Gallery, 1986).Google Scholar
Martínez Bermejo, Saúl, ‘Beyond Luxury: Sumptuary Legislation in 17th-Century Castile’, in Lottes, Günther, Medijainen, Eero, and Sigurdsson, Jón Vidar (eds.), Making, Using and Resisting the Law in European History (Pisa: PLUS-Pisa University Press, 2008), 93–108.Google Scholar
Medick, Hans, ‘Une Culture de la considération. Les vêtements et leur couleur à Laichingen entre 1750 et 1820’, Annales. Histoire, Sciences Sociales 50 (1995): 753–774.Google Scholar
Medick, Hans, Weben und Überleben in Laichingen 1650–1900. Lokalgeschichte als Allgemeine Geschichte (Göttingen: Vandenhoeck, 1996).Google Scholar
, [Veritable Records of the Ming Dynasty], 133 vols. (Nan’gang: Zhongyang yanjiu yuan lishi yuyan yanjiu suo, 1962).Google Scholar
Moiseenko, E. Iu. (ed.), Kostium v Rossii pervoi chetverti XVIII veka (Leningrad: Ermitazh, 1984).Google Scholar
Molà, Luca, ‘Leggi suntuarie in Veneto’, in Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina and Campanini, Antonella (eds.), Disciplinare il Lusso. La legislazione suntuaria in Italia e in Europa tra Medioevo ed età moderna (Rome: Carocci, 2003), 47–57.Google Scholar
Molà, Luca, The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice (Baltimore and London: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000).Google Scholar
Molina, Álvaro and Vega, Jesusa, Vestir la identidad, construir la apariencia: La cuestión del traje en la España del siglo XVIII (Madrid: Ayuntamiento de Madrid, Área de Gobierno de las Artes, 2004).Google Scholar
Molmenti, Pompeo, La storia di Venezia nella vita privata dalle origini alla caduta della Repubblica, 3 vols. (Trieste: Edizioni Lint, 1880).Google Scholar
Münkler, Herfried, ‘Die Idee der Tugend. Ein politischer Leitbegriff im vorrevolutionären Europa’, Archiv für Kulturgeschichte 73 (1991): 379–403.Google Scholar
Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina, ‘“Contra formam statutorum”: regole, controlli e provvedimenti sanzionatori in materia suntuaria. Il caso di Bologna’, in Lett, Didier (ed.), Statuts, écritures et pratiques sociales dans les sociétés de la Méditerranée occidentale à la fin du Moyen Âge (XIIe-XVe siècle). Les statuts vus de l’extérieur: les références à la norme dans les sources de la pratique (Rome: École Française de Rome, forthcoming 2018).Google Scholar
Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina, ‘Il corpo spogliato. Multe, scomuniche e strategemmi per il rispetto delle leggi suntuarie’, Micrologus 15 (2007): 399–423.Google Scholar
Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina, ‘Le leggi suntuarie’, in Belfanti, Carlo Marco and Giusberti, Fabio (eds.), Storia d’Italia. Annali 19: La moda (Turin: Einaudi, 2003), 185–220.Google Scholar
Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina, ‘Reconciling the Privilege of a Few with the Common Good: Sumptuary Laws in Medieval and Early Modern Europe’, Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies 39/3 (2009): 597–617.Google Scholar
Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina, ‘“Vesti bollate”: The Italian Fashion Gazette of the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries (Shapes, Colours, Decorations)’, in Kovesi, Catherine (ed.), Luxury and the Ethics of Greed in Early Modern Italy (Turnhout: Brepols, forthcoming 2018).Google Scholar
Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina (ed.), La legislazione suntuaria. Secoli XIII-XVI. Emilia-Romagna; Umbria (Rome: Ministero per i beni e le attività culturali. Direzione generale degli archivi, 2002).Google Scholar
Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina (ed.), Belle vesti, dure leggi: ‘In hoc libro continentur et descripte sunt omnes eet singules vestes’ (Bologna: Costa editore, 2003).Google Scholar
Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina and Campanini, Antonella (eds.), Disciplinare il lusso: la legislazione suntuaria in Italia e in Europa tra Medioevo ed età moderna (Rome: Carocci, 2003).Google Scholar
Nenadic, Stana, Lairds and Luxury: The Highland Gentry in Eighteenth-Century Scotland (Edinburgh: John Donald, 2007).Google Scholar
Newett, Mary Margaret, ‘The Sumptuary Laws of Venice in the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries’, in Tout, T. F. and Tait, James (eds.), Historical Essays by Members of the Owens College, Manchester (London: Longmans Green, 1902), 245–277.Google Scholar
Newton, Stella Mary, The Dress of the Venetians, 1495–1525 (Aldershot: Scolar Press, 1988).Google Scholar
Nico Ottaviani, Maria Grazia (ed.), La legislazione suntuaria. Secoli XIII-XVI. Umbria (Rome: Ministero per i beni e le attività culturali. Direzione generale degli archivi, 2005).Google Scholar
Nierstrasz, Chris, In the Shadow of the Company: The Dutch East India Company and its Servants in the Period of its Decline (1740–1796) (Leiden: Brill, 2012).Google Scholar
Ogilvie, Sheilagh, Küpker, Markus and Maegraith, Janine, “Die lokale Regulierung des Konsums im frühneuzeitlichen Württemberg”, in Hirbodian, Sigrid, Ogilvie, Sheilagh and Regnath, R. Joanna (eds.), Revolution des Fleißes, Revolution des Konsums? Leben und Wirtschaften im ländlichen Württemberg von 1650–1800 (Ostfildern: Thorbecke, 2015), 55–74.Google Scholar
Ooms, Herman, ‘Forms and Norms in Edo Arts and Society’, in Singer, Robert T. (ed.), Edo: Art in Japan 1615–1868 (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1998), 23–46.Google Scholar
Orfali, Moisés, ‘Del lujo y de las leyes suntuarias: Ordenanzas sobre la vestimenta femenina en su contexto social y halájico’, in Koch, Yolanda Moreno (ed.), La mujer judía, (Córdoba: Ediciones El Almendro, 2007), 161–179.Google Scholar
Pallach, Ulrich-Christian, Materielle Kultur und Mentalitäten im 18. Jahrhundert (München: Oldenbourg, 1987).Google Scholar
Plank, Geoffrey, ‘The First Person in Antislavery Literature: John Woolman, his Clothes and his Journal’, Slavery & Abolition 30/1 (2009): 67–91.Google Scholar
Prinz, Michael (ed.), Der lange Weg in den Überfluss. Anfänge und Entwicklung der Konsumgesellschaft seit der Vormoderne (Paderborn: Schöningh, 2003).Google Scholar
Quataert, Donald, ‘Clothing Laws, State, and Society in the Ottoman Empire, 1720–1829’, International Journal of Middle East Studies 29/3 (1997): 403–425.Google Scholar
Radeff, Anne, Du café dans le chaudron. Economie globale d’Ancien Régime (Lausanne: Société d’histoire de la Suisse romande, 1996).Google Scholar
Rainey, Ronald, ‘Dressing Down the Dressed Up: Reproving Feminine Attire in Renaissance Florence’, in Monfasani, John and Musto, Ronald G. (eds.), Renaissance Society and Culture: Essays in Honor of Eugene F. Rice, Jr. (New York: Italica Press, 1991), 217–237.Google Scholar
Rappaport, Joanne, The Disappearing Mestizo. Configuring Difference in the Colonial New Kingdom of Granada (Durham: Duke University Press, 2014).Google Scholar
Refik, Ahmet, Hicrî On İkinci Asırda İstanbul Hayatı (1100–1200 [1688–1786]) (Istanbul, 1930).Google Scholar
Refik, Ahmet, Hicrî On Üçüncü Asırda İstanbul Hayatı (1200–1255 [1786–1840]) (Istanbul, 1932).Google Scholar
Reinke-Williams, Tim, ‘Women’s Clothes and Female Honour in Early Modern London’, Continuity and Change 26/1 (2011): 69–88.Google Scholar
Reith, Reinhold and Meyer, Torsten (eds.), Luxus und Konsum. Eine historische Annäherung (Münster: Waxmann, 2003).Google Scholar
Riello, Giorgio, Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2013).Google Scholar
Riisøy, Anne Irene, Sexuality, Law and Legal Practice and the Reformation in Norway (Leiden: Brill, 2009).Google Scholar
Robinson, David M. (ed.), Culture, Courtiers, and Competition: The Ming Court (1368–1644) (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2008).Google Scholar
Roche, Daniel, The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the “Ancien Régime” (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, [or. French ed. 1991] 1994).Google Scholar
Rodrigues, Ana Maria, ‘The Treasures and Foundations of Isabel, Elisenda and Leonor. The Art Patronage of Four Iberian Queens in the Fourteenth Century’, in Martin, Therese (ed.), Reassessing the Role of Women as ‘Makers’ of Medieval Art and Architecture (Leiden: Brill, 2012), 903–936.Google Scholar
Roese, Peter M. and Bondarenko, Dmitri M., A Popular History of Benin: The Rise and Fall of a Mighty Forest Kingdom (Frankfurt-am-Main: Peter Lang, 2003).Google Scholar
Ross, Robert, Clothing. A Global History: Or, the Imperialists’ New Clothes (Cambridge: Polity, 2008).Google Scholar
Ross, Robert, ‘Sumptuary Laws in Europe, the Netherlands and the Dutch Colonies’, in Worden, Nigel (ed.), Contingent Lives: Social Identity and Material Culture in the VOC World (Rondebosch: University of Cape Town, 2007), 382–391.Google Scholar
Ruane, Christine, The Empire’s New Clothes: A History of the Russian Fashion Industry, 1700–1917 (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2009).Google Scholar
Rublack, Ulinka, Dressing Up: Cultural Identity in Early Modern Germany (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010).Google Scholar
Rublack, Ulinka and Hayward, Maria (eds.), The First Book of Fashion: The Book of Clothes of Matthäus and Veit Konrad Schwarz (London: Bloomsbury, 2015).Google Scholar
Runefelt, Leif, Att hasta mot undergången: anspråk, flyktighet, förställning i debatten om konsumtion i Sverige 1730–1830 (Lund: Nordic Academic Press, 2015).Google Scholar
Ryder, A. F. C., Benin and the Europeans 1485–1897 (Harlow: Longmans, Green & Co., 1969).Google Scholar
Sakaoğlu, Necdet, ‘Osmanlı Giyim Kuşamı ve ‘Elbise-i Osmaniyye’, Tarih ve Toplum 8/47 (1987): 36–41.Google Scholar
Schäfer, Dagmar and Kuhn, Dieter, Weaving and Economic Pattern in Ming Times (1368–1644): The Production of Silk Weaves in the State-Owned Workshops (Heidelberg: Ed. Forum, 2002).Google Scholar
Schäfer, Dagmar, ‘Silken Strands: Making Technology Work in China’, in Dagmar Schäfer (ed.) Cultures of Knowledge: Technology in Chinese History (Leiden: Brill, 2011), 45–73.Google Scholar
Sedov, V., ‘Reforma sluzhilogo plat’ia pri Fedore Alekseeviche’, in Bespiatykh, Iu. N. (ed.), Trudy Vserossooskoi nauchnoi konferentsii “Kogda Rossiia molodaia muzhala s genium Petra”, posviashchennoi 300-letnemu iubileiu otechestvennogo flota (Pereslavl-Zalesskii: Pereslavl Zalesskii istoriko-arkhitekturnyi i khudozhestvennyi muzei-zapovednik, 1992), 77–84.Google Scholar
Sempere y Guariños, Juan, Historia del luxo y de las leyes suntuarias de España (Madrid, 1788; reprinted València: Institució Alfons el Magnànim, 2000).Google Scholar
Shannon, Timothy J., ‘Dressing for Success on the Mohawk Frontier: Hendrick, William Johnson, and the Indian Fashion’, William and Mary Quarterly, 3rd ser. 53/1 (1996): 13–42.Google Scholar
Shaw, F. J., ‘Sumptuary Legislation in Scotland’, The Juridical Review 24 (1979): 81–115.Google Scholar
Defu, Shen, Wanli yehuo bian [Unofficial Gleanings of the Wanli Era] (Beijing: Zhonghua shuju, 1980).Google Scholar
Shi, David E., ‘Early American Simplicity: The Quaker Ethic’, in Doherty, Daniel and Etzioni, Amitai (eds.), Voluntary Simplicity: Responding to Consumer Culture (Lanham, MD: Rowman & Littlefield, 2003), 101–124.Google Scholar
Shively, Donald H., ‘Sumptuary Regulation and Status in Early Tokugawa’, Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies 25 (1964–65): 132–164.Google Scholar
Shūzō, Kuki, The Structure of Detachment, trans. Hiroshi Nara (Honolulu: University of Hawai’i Press, 2004).Google Scholar
Silva, Maria Beatriz Nizza da, ‘Trajo’, in Vida privada e quotidiano no Brasil na época de D. Maria I e D. João VI, 2nd ed. (Lisbon: Estampa, 2004).Google Scholar
Silva, Nuno Vassalo and Trnek, Helmut (eds.), Exotica. Os descobrimentos portugueses e as câmaras de maravilhas do Renascimento (Lisbon: Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, 2001).Google Scholar
Smith, Woodruff D., Consumption and the Making of Respectability, 1600–1800 (London: Routledge, 2002).Google Scholar
Stevens, Carol B., ‘A Woman in Possession: Household Goods and Social Status of a Single Woman in Early St. Petersburg’, Russian History 42 (2015): 136–148.Google Scholar
Sturtewagen, Isis, ‘All Together Respectably Dressed’ (unpublished PhD thesis, University of Antwerp, 2016). Available at https://repository.uantwerpen.be/docman/irua/2cb264/11226.pdfGoogle Scholar
Taylor, Jean Gelman, ‘Meditations on a Portrait from Seventeenth-Century Batavia’, Journal of Southeast Asian Studies 37/1 (2006): 23–41.Google Scholar
Taylor, Jean Gelman, The Social World of Batavia: Europeans and Eurasians in Colonial Indonesia. 2nd ed. (Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 2009).Google Scholar
Tröhler, Daniel, ‘Kommerz und Patriotismus. Pestalozzis Weg vom politischen zum christlichen Republikanismus (1764–1780)’, Schweizerische Zeitschrift für Geschichte 50 (2000): 325–352.Google Scholar
Twinam, Ann, Purchasing Whiteness: Pardos, Mulattos, and the Quest for Social Mobility in the Spanish Indies (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 2015).Google Scholar
Uramoto, Yoshifumi, Edo, Tokyo no Hisabetsuburaku no rekishi: Danzaemon to hisabetsu Minshū (Tokyo: Akashi Shoten, 2003).Google Scholar
Van Uytven, Raymond, ‘Showing off One’s Rank in the Middle Ages’, in Blockmans, Wim and Janse, Antheun (eds.), Showing Status, Representation of Social Positions in the Late Middle Ages (Turnhout: Brepols, 1999), 19–34.Google Scholar
Verga, Ettore, ‘Le leggi suntuarie e la decadenza dell’industria in Milano, 1565–1750’, Archivio Storico Lombardo 27 (1900): 49–116.Google Scholar
Verga, Ettore, ‘Le leggi suntuarie milanesi: gli statuti del 1396 e del 1498’, Archivio Storico Lombardo 25 (1898): 5–79.Google Scholar
Vincent, John Martin, Costume and Conduct in the Laws of Basel, Bern, and Zurich, 1370–1800 (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins Press, 1935).Google Scholar
Vincent, Susan, Dressing the Elite. Clothes in Early Modern England (Oxford: Berg, 2003).Google Scholar
Volpp, Sophie, ‘The Gift of a Python Robe: The Circulation of Objects in “Jin Ping Mei”’, Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies 65/1 (2005): 133–158.Google Scholar
Vries, Jan de, ‘Luxury in the Dutch Golden Age in Theory and Practice’, in Berg, Maxine and Eger, Elizabeth (eds.), Luxury in the Eighteenth Century. Debates, Desires and Delectable Goods (Basingstoke: Palgrave, 2003), 41–56.Google Scholar
Walker, Corinne, ‘Images du luxe à Genève. Douze années de répression par la Chambre de la Réformation (1646–1658)’, Revue du Vieux Genève 17 (1987): 21–26.Google Scholar
Walker, Corinne, ‘Les lois somptuaires ou le rêve d’un ordre social. Evolution et enjeux de la politique somptuaire à Genève (XVIe-XVIIIe siècles)’, Equinoxe 11 (1994): 111–129.Google Scholar
Walker, Tamara, Exquisite Slaves: Race, Clothing and Status in Colonial Lima (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2017).Google Scholar
Weber, Matthias, Die Reichspolizeiordnungen von 1530, 1548 und 1577. Historische Einführung und Edition (Frankfurt-am-Main: Klostermann, 2002).Google Scholar
Welch, Evelyn (ed.), Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles and Innovation in Europe, 1500–1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2017).Google Scholar
Jen-shu, Wu, ‘Mingdai pingmin fushi de liuxing fengshang yu shidafu fanying’ [Popular styles of clothing among the common people of the Ming, and the reaction of the gentry], Xinshixue 10/3 (1999): 55–109.Google Scholar
Wunder, Amanda, ‘Women’s Fashions and Politics in Seventeenth-Century Spain: The Rise and Fall of the Guardainfante’, Renaissance Quarterly 68/1 (2015): 133–186.Google Scholar
Wunder, Amanda, ‘Innovation and Tradition at the Court of Philip IV of Spain (1621–1665): The Invention of the Golilla and the Guardainfante’, in Welch, Evelyn (ed.), Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500–1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2017), 111–133.Google Scholar
Yuan, Zujie, ‘Dressing for Power: Rite, Costume, and State Authority in Ming Dynasty China’, Frontiers of History in China 2/2 (2007): 181–212.Google Scholar
Zakim, Michael, Ready-made Democracy: A History of Men’s Dress in the American Republic, 1760–1860 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2003).Google Scholar
Zander-Seidel, Jutta, Textiler Hausrat: Kleidung und Haustextilien in Nürnberg von 1500–1650 (Munich: Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1990).Google Scholar
Zander-Seidel, Jutta (ed.), In Mode: Kleider und Bilder aus Renaissance und Frühbarock (Nürnberg: Germanisches Nationalmuseum, 2015).Google Scholar
Zandvliet, Kees (ed.), The Dutch Encounter with Asia, 1600–1950 (Zwolle: Waanders, 2002).Google Scholar
Jia, Zhang, ‘Cong zheng guanshang: Hongwu shiqi de fushi gaige’ [Restoring Chinese Costume: The Reform of the Clothing System during the Reign of Hongwu], Journal of Chinese Studies 58 (2014): 113–158.Google Scholar
Tingyu, Zhang et al., Ming shi [Official History of the Ming] (Beijing: Zhonghua shuju, 1995).Google Scholar
Zilfi, Madeline C., ‘Whose Laws? Gendering the Ottoman Sumptuary Regime’, in Faroqhi, Suraiya N. and Neumann, Christoph K. (eds.), Ottoman Costumes: From Textiles to Identity (Istanbul: EREN, 2014), 125–141.Google Scholar
Zilfi, Madeline C., Women and Slavery in the Late Ottoman Empire: The Design of Difference (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010).Google Scholar
Zurbuchen, Simone, ‘Patriotismus und Nation: Der schweizerische Republikanismus des 18. Jahrhunderts’, in Böhler, Michael and Hoffman, Etienne (eds.), Republikanische Tugend. Ausbildung eines Schweizer Nationalbewusstseins und Erziehung eines neuen Bürgers, (Geneva: Slatkine, 2000), 151–181.Google Scholar