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7 - Form-of-Life beyond the Law

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 November 2024

Colby Dickinson
Affiliation:
Loyola University, Chicago
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Summary

THE TEMPORALITY OF FASHION AND ART

In Agamben's remarks on the notion of the contemporary, there is one example of its nature that I want to isolate as I believe it points us toward comprehending his eventual pronouncement of the significance of form-of-life: that of the realm of fashion, specifically in relation to the art of citation (and certainly understood here in line with the previous chapter's remarks on citationality in Benjamin's work). From Agamben's viewpoint, fashion becomes that which represents the experience of contemporariness as a division between something's ‘relevance or irrelevance, its beingin- fashion or its no-longer-being-in-fashion’. In a way that recalls the messianic ‘now-time’ (Jetztzeit) in Benjamin's theses on history, Agamben discovers within the immediacy of fashion a similar dynamic that he wants to underscore in order to illustrate the dynamics of messianic time. In his words:

This caesura, as subtle as it may be, is remarkable in the sense that those who need to make note of it do so infallibly, and in so doing they attest to their own being in fashion. But if we try to objectify and fix this caesura within chronological time, it reveals itself as ungraspable. In the first place the ‘now’ of fashion, the instant in which it comes into being, is not identifiable via any kind of chronometer. Is this ‘now’ perhaps the moment in which the fashion designer conceives of the general concept, the nuance that will define the new style of the clothes? Or is it the moment when the fashion designer conveys the concept to his assistants and then to the tailor who will sew the prototype? Or, rather, is it the moment of the fashion show, when the clothes are worn by the only people who are always and only in fashion, the mannequins or models – those who nonetheless, precisely for this reason, are never truly in fashion? In this last instance, the being in fashion of the ‘style’ will depend on the fact that the people of flesh and blood, rather than the mannequins (those sacrificial victims of a faceless god), will recognize it as such and choose that style for their own wardrobe. (WA 15–16)

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Giorgio Agamben's Homo Sacer Series
A Critical Introduction and Guide
, pp. 180 - 205
Publisher: Edinburgh University Press
Print publication year: 2022

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