As I have mentioned before (Chap. XII) a short cut from Karatagh to Samarkand leads across the Hissar or Hazrat-sultan mountains. This we did not take, wishing to save our pack animals, but with light baggage and horses lent by the Beg we made an excursion to the top of the Mura pass whence one may proceed to Saratagh by the valley on the left of Fig. 124. We followed the course of the Karataghdarya which amid magnificent scenery paws the rocks with claws of silver and frets unwillingly at the yoke of many bridges. Near the village of Labijai a great moraine descends from a westerly ravine. On the slopes massive and noble clusters of walnut trees are strewn about in great numbers. At Hakimi we stopped for the night, our quarters being the portico of the mosque, the only shelter available. Here the view was grand. In front, framed into a picture by the pillars of the temple, towered lofty peaks holding up to the moon a shield of gleaming silver, while below the river foamed and surged in its rocky channel. Needless to say our use of the mosque gave no offence to the villagers except in so far as it may have curtailed their opportunities for gossip. It is the social centre of the place where the cronies assemble to discuss their favourite topics, where the barber is wont to ply his skill, and where any functions of like importance take place.

A short way above Hakimi the Karatagh river is joined by a left tributary torrent poured out in frisky cascades from the morainedammed basin of the Timur-dera-kul.