Hostname: page-component-586b7cd67f-tf8b9 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-25T18:27:03.588Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Examination of Metal Threads From Some Xv/Xvi Century Italian Textiles by Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  28 February 2011

D. Montegut
Affiliation:
Conservation Center, Institute of Fine Arts, New York University, New York City, 10021
C. Adelson
Affiliation:
Conservation Center, Institute of Fine Arts, New York University, New York City, 10021
R.J. Koestler
Affiliation:
Metropolitan Museum of Art, Objects Conservation Dept., New York City, 10028
N. Indictor
Affiliation:
Brooklyn College, CUNY and the Grad. Prog., Chemistry Dept., Brooklyn, NY, 11210
Get access

Abstract

Scanning electron microscopy and energy dispersive x-ray spectrometry (SEM-EDS) has been employed along with the light microscope to describe some metal threads taken from some late Medieval and Renaissance textiles attributed to Italy in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Comparisons are made within the group studied and to those descriptions of metal threads found in recent literature. The results are discussed in terms of geographic and historic markers of the metal thread technology employed.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
Copyright © Materials Research Society 1992

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

References And Footnotes

1. Darrah, J. A., Metal Threads and Filaments, in Recent Advances in the Conservation and Analysis of Artifacts, comp. by Black, James, Summer School Pr., U. London, Inst. of Archaeol,London [1987].Google Scholar
2. Darrah, J. A., “The Microscopical and Analytical Examination of Three Types of Metal Thread,” Conservation of Metals, Ed. Jaro, M., International Restorer Seminar (1-10 July 1989), Veszprdm,Hungary, 1989, pp. 5364.Google Scholar
3. Hoke, E., and Petrascheck-Heim, I., “Microprobe Analysis of Gilded Silver Threads from Medieval Textiles”, Studies in Conservation 22 (1977): 4962.Google Scholar
4. Indictor, N. and Koestler, R.J., “The Identification and Characterization of Metal Wrapping in Historic Textiles Using Microscopy and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry - Problems Associated with Identification and Characterization,” Scanning Electron Microscoov (1986): 491497.Google Scholar
5. Indictor, N., Koestler, R.J., Blair, C., and Wardwell, A., “The Evaluation of Metal Wrappings from Medieval Textiles Using Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive X-Ray SpectrometryTextile History. 19 (1) (1988): 322.Google Scholar
6. Indictor, N., Koestler, R.J., Wypysky, M., and Wardwell, A., “Metal Threads Made of Proteinacious Substrates Examined by Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive X-RaySpectrometry,” Studies in Conservation 34 (4) (1989): 171182.Google Scholar
7. Indictor, N. and Ballard, M., ‘The Effects of Aging on Textiles that Contain Metal: Implicationsfor Analyses,” Conservation of Metals Ed. Jaro, M., International Restorer Seminar (1-10 July 1989), Veszprdm, Hungary, 1989, pp. 6776.Google Scholar
8. Indictor, N. and Blair, C.. “The Examination of Metal from Historic Indian Textiles Using Scanning Electron Microscope-Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry,’ Textile History.21 (2)(1990): 149–63.Google Scholar
9. Indictor, N. ‘The Use of Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometryfor the Examination of Metal Threads on a Karuppur Sari,” Studies in Indian Textiles. a Socio-Cultural Survey, Ed. Varadarajan, L., Manohar, New Delhi, (in press).Google Scholar
10. Jaro, M., “The Investigation of the Metal Embroidery Threads of the Hungarian Coronation Mantle by Scanning Electron Microscope and Physical Methods of Analysis’, ICOM 7th Triennill Mheeinp. Copenhagen, 10-14 Sept.. Paris, 1984, 84.1.22–84.1.24.Google Scholar
11. Jaro, M., ‘The technology and analytical examination of metal threads on old textiles,” in Conservation-Restoration of Church Textiles and Painted Flags: Investigation of Museum Obiects and Materials Used in Conservation-Restoration, Fourth International Restorer Seminar (2-10 July 1983), Budapest, 1984, pp. 253264.Google Scholar
12. Jaro, M. and Gondar, E., ‘Mediaeval Membrane Threads Used for Weaving and Embroidery,” Archaeometrical Research in Hungary, Eds Jaro, M. and Kolto, L., National Center of Museums,Budapest, 1988, pp. 255266.Google Scholar
13. Jaro, M., Gondar, E. and Toth, A.. “Reconstruction of Gilding Techniques Used for Mediaeval Membrane Threads in Museum Textiles,” Archaeometry ‘90. Birkh Auser Verlag Basel, (1990): 317325.Google Scholar
14. Jaro, M., Toth, A. and Gondar, E., “Determination of the Manufacturing Technique of a 10th Century Metal Thread,” ICOM 9th Triennial Meetingo Dresden, 26-31 August., Los Angeles, 1990, pp. 299301.Google Scholar
15. Jaro, M., “Gold Embroidery and Fabrics in Europe: XI-XIV Centuries,” Gold Bulletin 23 (2)(1990): 4057.Google Scholar
16. , Genoa, Tessuti Preziosi del Giapoone Kinran- Shokko-nishiki- Kinsha- secoli xvi/xix- Storia:Techniche- Analisi- Restauro. Museo d'Arte Orientale “Edoardo Chiossone”: Compagnia dei Librai,Genoa, 1985.Google Scholar
17. Harden, I.R., and Duffield, F.J., “Characterization of Metallic Yarns in Historic Persian Textilesby Microanalysis,” CELL 44. Abstract of Palers. 188th ACS National Meeting. Phila., PA, Aug.26-31, 1984. Historic Textiles and Paper Materials. Needles, H.L. & Zeronian, S.H., Eds. Adv. in Chem. Series 212, Amer. Chem. Soc., Washington, D.C. 1986, pp. 231252.Google Scholar
18. Lee-Whitman, L., and Skelton, M., “Where Did All the Silver Go?Textile Museum Journal, 22 (1984): 3352; M. Skelton and L. Lee-Whitman, “A Systematic Method for Differentiating Between 18th Century Painted-Printed Chinese and Western Silks,” Historic Textiles and Paoer Materials.Needles, H.L. & S.H. Zeronian, Eds., Adv. Chem. Series 212, Amer. Chem. Soc., Wash., D.C. 1986,pp. 131-152.Google Scholar
19. Magagnato, L., et. al., Le stoffe di Cangrande. Alinari, Florence, 1983, pp. 190193.Google Scholar
20. Montegut, D., Indictor, N., and Summerfield, A. &J., ‘Technical Examination of Metal Threads insome Indonesian Textiles of West Sumatra,’ (in prep).Google Scholar
21. Schreier, B.A. and Bresee, R.R., History of Decorative Metallic Yarns. Book of Papers. 1979 National Technical Conf., AATCC Oct 3-5 Hyatt House, Cherry Hill, NJ, Host Delaware Valley Section.Google Scholar
22. Stodulski, L.P., Mailand, H.F., Nauman, D., and Kennedy, M., “Scanning ElectronMicroscope/Energy Dispersive X-Ray and Atomic Emission Spectrographic Studies of Precious Metal Threads from European, Middle Eastern, and Oriental Textiles.” Abstr., Apl2Qications of Science in Examination of Works of Art Mus.of Fine Arts, Boston, MA (1983); Eds. P.A. England & L. van Zelst, "Atomic Emission Spectrographic and Scanning Electron Microscope/Energy Dispersive X-Ray Studiesof European, Middle Eastern, and Oriental Metallic Threads,” Mus.of Fine Arts, Boston, MA, 1985,pp. 76-91. [Same as appendix of: P.S. Gilfoy, Fabrics in Celebration from the Collection, IndianapolisMus. of Art, Indianapolis, 1983.]Google Scholar
23. Wardwell, Anne E., “Panni tartarici: Eastern Islamic Silk Woven with Gold and Silver (13th and 14th Centuries).” Islamic Art, Ill, (1988-1989): 95173.Google Scholar
24. Indictor, N. Koestler, R.J., and Sheryll, R., “The Detection of Mordants by Energy DispersiveX-Ray Spectrometry Part I. Dyed Woolen Textile Fibers,” Journal of the American Institute for Conservalton 24 (1985):104109.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
25. Koestler, R.J., Sheryll, R., and Indictor, N., ‘Identification of Dyeing Mordants and Related Substances in Textile Fibers: A Preliminary Study Using Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry,’ Studies in Conservation 30 (1985): 5862.Google Scholar
26. Koestler, R.J., Indictor, N., and Sheryll, R., ‘The Detection of Mordants by Energy DispersiveX-Ray Spectrometry Part II. Historical Silk Textiles,” Journal of the American Institute for Conservation, 24 (1985): 110115.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
27. White, S.M., Koestler, R.J., Blair, C., and Indictor, N., “Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometryof Gold-Silver-Copper Standards for Comparison with Historic Gold Objects,’ Materials Research Society Symposium Procedings, San Francisco, 1990, Vol 185, Materials Issues in Art and Archaeolog IIl Eds. Vandiver, P.B., Druzik, J., Wheeler, G.S., Pittsburgh, 1991, pp. 731740.Google Scholar
28. Bock, Franz, Goldstickereien und Webereien in alter und neuer Zeit und dazu verwandte 317 Goldaesirnnst. Bayrischen Gewerbemusem, Nürnberg, 1884 Google Scholar
29. Nissim, J., “A Monograph on Wire and Tinsel in the Bombay Presidency,’ in Art and Industir Through the Ages. Navrang, New Delhi, repr. (1895-97) 1976 pp. 287302.Google Scholar
30.Cores of gilded threads often have yellow, yellowish or colored threads; cores of silverthreads often have threads of uncolored or bleached fibers.Google Scholar