Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-gbm5v Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2025-01-01T09:01:33.476Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Scale effects in a wave-refraction experiment

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2006

Tudor Sprinks  and
Ronald Smith
Tudor Sprinks
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, University of Essex
Ronald Smith
Affiliation:
Department of Applied Mathematics and Theoretical Physics, University of Cambridge
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

The experimental results of Provis (1975, 1976) for wave amplification at a conical island bear little resemblance to the theoretical predictions of Smith & Sprinks (1975). Here Provis's suggestion is confirmed: that his experiments were dominated by viscous damping and by standing waves between the island and the wavemaker. Estimates are given as to how large an experiment needs to be to avoid these important scale effects.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 129 , April 1983 , pp. 455 - 471
Copyright
© 1983 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Abramowitz, M. & Stegun, I. A. 1964 Handbook of Mathematical Functions. Natl Bur. Standards Appl. Math. Ser.Google Scholar
Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1973 Computation of combined refraction-diffraction. In Proc. 13th Coastal Engng Conf. vol. 1, pp. 471–490.
Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1976 Mathematical models for simple harmonic linear water waves: wave diffraction and refraction. Delft Hydraulic Lab. Rep. no. 163.Google Scholar
Jonsson, I. G. & BRINK-KJAER, O. 1973 A comparison between two reduced wave equations for gradually varying depth Prog. Rep. Inst. Hydrodyn. Hydraul. Engng, Tech. Univ. Denmark 31, 13–18.Google Scholar
Jonsson, I. G. & Skovgaard, O. 1979 A mild-slope equation and its application to tsunami calculations Marine Geodesy 2, 41–58.Google Scholar
Lamb, H. 1932 Hydrodynamics. Cambridge University Press.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1967 On the trapping of wave energy round islands J. Fluid Mech. 29, 781–821.Google Scholar
Mahony, J. J. 1971 Excitation of surface waves near to a cut-off frequency. Fluid Mech. Res. Inst. Rep. Univ. Essex no. 7.Google Scholar
Pite, H. D. 1977 The excitation of damped waves diffracted over a submerged circular sill J. Fluid Mech. 82, 621–641.Google Scholar
Provis, D. G. 1975 Propagation of water waves near an island. Ph.D. thesis. University of Essex.
Provis, D. G. 1976 Experimental studies of wave refraction. In Waves on Water of Variable Depth (ed. D. G. Provis & R. Radok). Lecture Notes in Physics vol. 64, pp. 39–45. Springer.
Shen, M. C. & Keller, J. B. 1975 Uniform ray theory of surface, internal and acoustic wave propagation in a rotating ocean or atmosphere SIAM J. Appl. Maths 28, 857–875.Google Scholar
Shen, M. C., Meyer, R. E. & Keller, J. B. 1968 Spectra of water waves in channels and around islands Phys. Fluids 11, 2289–2304.Google Scholar
Smith, R. 1974 Edge waves on a beach of mild slope Q. J. Mech. Appl. Maths 27, 102–110.Google Scholar
Smith, R. 1975 Second-order turning point problems in oceanography. Deep-Sea Res. 22. 837–852.Google Scholar
Smith, R. & Sprinks, T. 1975 Scattering of surface waves by a conical island J. Fluid Mech. 72, 373–384.Google Scholar