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Explosive ripple instability due to incipient wave breaking

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  28 January 2019

Alexei A. Mailybaev Open the ORCID record for Alexei A. Mailybaev [Opens in a new window]  and
André Nachbin Open the ORCID record for André Nachbin [Opens in a new window]
Alexei A. Mailybaev*
Affiliation:
Instituto Nacional de Matemática Pura e Aplicada – IMPA, Rio de Janeiro, CEP 22460-320, Brazil
André Nachbin
Affiliation:
Instituto Nacional de Matemática Pura e Aplicada – IMPA, Rio de Janeiro, CEP 22460-320, Brazil
*
†Email address for correspondence: [email protected]
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Abstract

Considering two-dimensional potential ideal flow with a free surface and finite depth, we study the dynamics of small-amplitude and short-wavelength wavetrains propagating in the background of a steepening nonlinear wave. This can be seen as a model for small ripples developing on the slopes of breaking waves in the surf zone. Using the concept of wave action as an adiabatic invariant, we derive an explicit asymptotic expression for the change of ripple steepness. Through this expression, nonlinear effects are described using the intrinsic frequency and intrinsic gravity along Lagrangian (material) trajectories on a free surface. We show that strong compression near the tip on the wave leads to an explosive ripple instability. This instability may play an important role in the understanding of fragmentation and whitecapping at the surface of breaking waves. Analytical results are confirmed by numerical simulations using a potential theory model.

JFM classification

Waves/Free-surface Flows: Surface gravity waves
Type
JFM Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 863 , 25 March 2019 , pp. 876 - 892
Copyright
© 2019 Cambridge University Press 

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