Shipton decribes his first visit to New Orleans in 1976, hearing such locals as Kid Thomas's band at Preservation Hall, but also encountering such musical giants as Charles Mingus during the city's Jazz and Heritage Festival. He sits in with local bands and is mentored by the drummers Chester Jones and Freddie Kohlman, ending up playing often with Kohlman on his subsequent visits to Europe. He discusses the style and instruments of traditional bass players including Slow Drag Pavageau, Chester Zardis and Frank Fields. Some of the female pioneers of jazz are discussed including Sweet Emma Barrett, Sadie Goodson and Jeanette Kimball. The chapter concludes with a memory of pianist Don Ewell.