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Letter XXVI

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  22 October 2021

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Summary

A survey of Karlsruhe. Its precise layout. The hotel. The Haizingers. The Diet of Baden. The theatres. The polytechnical school. A mountainous road. Heidelberg. Weinheim. Darmstadt. Frankfurt-am-Main. Reminiscences. Durand. Römer. A picture gallery.

It's hard to imagine a town more correct and original than Karlsruhe! In the center is the duke's palace from which radii run in all directions. One half of a circle circumscribed around the center is occupied by the town, in which these radii, intersected by straight lines, form the streets; in the other half is a park in which the alleys are arranged in exactly the same way. On one square in the center of the town, on a straight line from the palace, stands a pyramid in which Margrave Charles, the founder of this town, lies buried. Before the beginning of the 18th century, this area was covered by a dense forest where Margrave Charles would go to hunt. He fell asleep on that very place one evening (1715), exhausted from chasing a wild boar. Upon awakening at sunrise, he was fascinated by the charming site and ordered a town to be founded there. No sooner said than done! It is a pity, however, that the prophetic dream that he should found a city had not befallen the Margrave closer to the Rhine. Karlsruhe lies in a waterless valley and suffers greatly as a result. Had there been no residence of the Grand Duke in it, the area would have fallen into desolation a long time ago. The lack of a water supply results in a high cost for the basic necessities of life. Heat waves here can be intolerable. Residents give travelers directions without naming streets. They say, “This house is three, four, blocks from here.” The city is like a chess board, on which pawns and bishops can move freely, but rooks would be trapped.

Having arrived in Karlsruhe, I stopped at the wonderful, clean Hotel zum golden Kreuz opposite the post house. German hotels, even in the most insignificant little towns, are distinguished by comfort, tidiness, and elegance. At the entrance, I was met by the main servant (Oberkellner), a steward who allots guests an apartment. A quarter of an hour later, a pretty looking young maid appeared, brought clean water in a jug and a towel, re-made the bed, and inquired if I needed anything.

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Publisher: Anthem Press
Print publication year: 2021

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